best way to take tubing off a barb?

What is the best way to take tubing off a barb? Are there any special tools I can use? Or do I need to spend more time in the gym? Currently I just try to pry it off with elbow grease and the back side of a fork. I know there has to be a better technique than this.

-Thank You

Other than cutting off -- have you tried Hair Drier to soften tubbing enough to get of with ease

Jolly-Swagman said:

Other than cutting off -- have you tried Hair Drier to soften tubbing enough to get of with ease

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I have not tried the hair drier technique, I will have to try that when I am ready to clean out my system. I guess tubing is not too expensive just to cut off.

-Thank You.

The hair dryer trick should work fairly well, or a slit up the tubing along the barb should do it as well. I only pay about $2 a foot for the tubing that I use, so I don't mind cutting it if I need to. I do have compression fittings at my res and rad, so those 2 pairs of locations are just a simple matter of unscrewing the compression ring, and the tubing comes off fairly easily.

deadlysyn said:

The hair dryer trick should work fairly well, or a slit up the tubing along the barb should do it as well. I only pay about $2 a foot for the tubing that I use, so I don't mind cutting it if I need to. I do have compression fittings at my res and rad, so those 2 pairs of locations are just a simple matter of unscrewing the compression ring, and the tubing comes off fairly easily.

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Thanks for the ideas. I think I should invest in some compression fittings one of these days.

They are a bit on the expensive side, but the convenience more than makes up for it, IMO. They also look better than barbs and clamps to me, so I decided to go with them over barbs. I do still have barbs on the blocks in my loop, due to not wanting to use 45's or 90's to get them to fit, but I went with the True Silver barbs for a bit of an antimicrobial. My D5 has the barbs built into the top, but I am thinking about getting a different top for it eventually so that I can use compression fittings there as well.

deadlysyn said:

They are a bit on the expensive side, but the convenience more than makes up for it, IMO. They also look better than barbs and clamps to me, so I decided to go with them over barbs. I do still have barbs on the blocks in my loop, due to not wanting to use 45's or 90's to get them to fit, but I went with the True Silver barbs for a bit of an antimicrobial. My D5 has the barbs built into the top, but I am thinking about getting a different top for it eventually so that I can use compression fittings there as well.

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So if I was going to get compression fittings for the cpu block I need to get ones with a 45 or 90 degree fittings for it to work?

1kingd2 said:

So if I was going to get compression fittings for the cpu block I need to get ones with a 45 or 90 degree fittings for it to work?

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I actually just ran barbs and clamps on my blocks, but here is a link to the compression fittings I have: http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-Silver-Compression-Fitting-1-2-to-3-4-pr-4218.html

And the one 45 in my loop: http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-silver-shining-Rotary-45-degree-G-1-4-adapter-BP-45R-pr-4341.html

And here is a pic of the setup on my MCRES V2. Notice the tight bends in the tubing. This Primochill LRT is some amazing stuff.

deadlysyn said:

I actually just ran barbs and clamps on my blocks, but here is a link to the compression fittings I have: http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-Silver-Compression-Fitting-1-2-to-3-4-pr-4218.html

And the one 45 in my loop: http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-silver-shining-Rotary-45-degree-G-1-4-adapter-BP-45R-pr-4341.html

And here is a pic of the setup on my MCRES V2. Notice the tight bends in the tubing. This Primochill LRT is some amazing stuff.

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Cool thanks for the tips. That is huge tubbing do you plan on putting out a fire with that!

1kingd2 said:

Cool thanks for the tips. That is huge tubbing do you plan on putting out a fire with that!

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The fire is the Q6600 and 9800GT in my sig running Folding@Home 24/7. The tubing is 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD. And what appears to be a kink in the tubing coming out of the bottom port of the res into the pump is just another tight bend. I can assure you that it is not obstructing the flow at all. Somehow, the picture makes it look like it is tighter than it actually is, upon visual inspection. When I was filling and bleeding the loop, when there was enough water to get back to the res, it hit the other side of the res, and actually splashed my hand through the fill port on the res. That D5 is a monster of a pump.