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Popping my WC cherry: what do you think?

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ajcfalcon

Registered
Joined
May 6, 2010
Hey guys,

Ive been reading through here for about a week and i think im ready to start ordering parts. I want to run my i7 at 4ghz and MAYBE someday cool my gpu's but for now just my cpu only.

Anyways, here is what i have and here is what i want to get. Please give me your opinions.

My System:

i7 920
p6t MOBO
6GB OCZ DDR3
2x ATI 4890 Crossfire
Antec 902


This is the setup i have decided on from reading this site. Also, is jab-tech a safe and reputable us retailer?


Black Ice GT stealth 120
http://www.jab-tech.com/Black-Ice-GT-stealth-120-Cool-Metal-Blue-pr-3525.html

Swiftech Apogee XT
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-Apogee-XT-Extreme-Performance-CPU-waterblock-pr-4568.html

Swiftech MCP655-B™ 12 VDC Pump Without speed controller
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCP655-B-12-VDC-Pump-Without-speed-controller-pr-3803.html

Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250
http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-Water-Tank-Z-Multi-250-POM-BP-WTZM250P-BK-pr-4585.html


From what i understand, i will need to use 1/2" tubing, do you guys recommend any specific tubing for any particular reason? And also fittings... ill spare no expense on fittings, what do you suggest?

Thank you for any additional help you guys can provide.
 
I would upgrade the rad if you are expecting better than air results, especially if you are overclocking with HT on. I wouldnt go any less than a 2x120 personally. If you want to cool those GPU's eventually, I wouldnt go no less than 3x120 and preferably more for best results.

Jab-tech is a solid e-tailer.
 
first of all get a bigger rad allows for more expandability the gt120 wouldn't be able to cool the 920 at 4ghz efficiently i would recommend getting a triple rad as most here would suggest. everything else seems ok but ill let everyone else get a hand in .

look through a few build logs and you'll see what most people usually do there's a sticky conundrum wrote somewhere around with a bunch of links to build logs might take you a while to actually pick out parts... ill try link that post

ps jabtechs great
 
Thanks guys. For those of you who arent familiar with the antec 902, space can be a bit of an issue. I can fit a 120.2 in the front, and probably one off the back, giving me 2x120.2 rads. If i started with just one of these:

http://www.jab-tech.com/Black-Ice-GT-stealth-240-Cool-Metal-Blue-pr-3419.html

for the cpu only, and then if i wanted to do gpu's later i could just add another on of those, would that be sufficient? would that pump be able to handle both rads?
 
First :welcome: to ocforums!
Second, U underraded your heatloads.
Bookmark these TON of info about rad/cpu block etc (test) comparison etc.
http://skinneelabs.com/
and martinlabs or something like that he stoped doing that so. ......
Another link that conum will post is about heat that your components are doing. ( i dont remember it...)
i7 @4GHZ will do 150-200w of heat. (load)
With that said. Check skinee review about heat removal (the graph) and see.
By experience.
Thermochill 120.3 or RX360 will be able to cool 1 i7 @4GHZ + 1gpu easy. (no gtx 480 included in that statement)
With low/medium speed fan. they are 80-100$ so u might want something less costy!
Swiftech mcr 320 are 50$ and will be able to cool this i7 4ghz easy. (low/medium speed fan). if u add a gpu u might want to buy an MCR 120 or 220 to keep your DT (Delta temps below 15degree.)
 
Thanks for the links. Im gonna go with a 3x120 for my cpu.

Im just wondering if the GT series is any good?

http://www.jab-tech.com/Black-Ice-GT-stealth-360-Cool-Metal-Blue-pr-3422.html

The GTX version is almost twice the price... money really isnt that big of an issue as it pertains to performance, i just like the look of the GT because it will match well with the theme of my case. But, performance is more important so if its not a decent radiator ill probably check out that thermochill that you posted.

Thanks for any info guys
 
Before you buy that rad you need to learn the difference between rads. There is a LOT of charecteristics you don't understand yet. Take your time.

A hint, the GT rad is a VERY old iteration. One of the first rads for watercooling. Good stuff back then. Too bad marketers don't say how old it is, eh?

In comparison to the new stuff, it has poor water flow rates, poor heat removal, and a very high FPI.

Have fun with the links.
 
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Thanks conumdrum, very useful information. Ill dig into it some more.
 
Hey conum, do you have a link that explains ID/OD as it pertains to tubing, or perhaps a quick explanation? I assume that as far as barbs are concerned, the ID is what matters when it comes to fitting the barbs, and im guessing OD relates the thickness of the tube?

Everything im looking at is 1/2" (apogee xt wb, mcp655 pump) with the gs3/8 1/2" fittings for the thermochill pa120.3 radiator.

And dont worry, im still taking my time researching its just something i didnt find much info on :p

And P.S. THANK YOU FOR THE RADIATOR COMPARISON LINK! That was awesome, even though the origional comparison is gone, there is a "v2" in there that was great.

Thanks again
 
Look at a piece of tubing, anything...

The Inner Diameter is the distance across the inside of the tube, not including the wall thicknes.. The out diameter is the distance across the entire tube.

Please excuse the BRUTAL MS Paint.
 

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Ha thank you earthdog! that much i assumed... i guess i didnt ask my question correctly, although i think i answered it for myself.

When choosing a tube, is it going to matter what size the OD is as long as the ID is correct? Is there a benefit to thicker tubing?

More specifically, is this tubing good quality?:
https://www.jab-tech.com/PrimoFlex-Pro-LRT-UV-Blue-Tubing-1-2in.-ID-X-3-4in.-OD-pr-4118.html

I just assumed that a question like that would cause someone to tell me to go research, which is why i was looking for a link of somesort because i assume this information is out there somewhere.

Thanks guys
 
I think it has something to do with how much it can bend without kinking...but Im not certain...

Promochill is fine last I recall...
 
A barb is measured in it's OD. It matches up with the ID of tubing. A barb thread is mentioned 99.9% in watercooling as G1/4 threads, that has no bearing on the barb end. Thank goodness the threads are standardized.

A 1/4" barb cannot use 1/2 ID hose. But a 1/2 barb can fit 7/16 ID hose on it wity much effort. Some like that, I think it's silly myself. It's the clamps that make the seal. getting that tubing off the barb usulaay results in cutting it off. 1/2 barb and 1/2 ID tubing? it comes off easy enought to reuse.

Wall thickness helps a LOT to prevent kinking. So does quality hose. Kinda two standards in hose size in the USA. 1/2ID - 3/4OD. Pretty fat but works great. The other is 7/16 ID - 5/8 OD. The 1/2 is a bit thicker wall but the OD is for sure larger.

Lastly, if you like compression fittings, you have to get the exact ID/OD for the fitting exactly like the tubing.

Your tubing choice is awesome, I use it. Even almost a year later, it's clear and reusable, still flexible. I didn't even cut off many of the used ends, they were fine.

A build I did, and 11 months later my rebuild. In the rebuild, look how clear it is in the last few pics. Great tubing.
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=604016
http://www.overclockers.com/annual-water-cooling-cleaning-rebuild-journal/
 
Used to teach electronics in the Air Force. Had to write student books, actually went to a month long class for it, just writing guide books. Knowing the info is one thing, figuring out what the student needs to hear is another. At one time we had 500 students on day shift, another 400 on night shift. Took 3 months to train each one.

We weeded out the problems quickly, over 10% failure rate. Once they got to their advanced training on specific systems the failure rate was 1.3% across 23 different fields. One was very tough, even they had +5% failure rates. No grad, time to be a cook or a office puke or get kicked out. Imagine 11 months in school and then be dumped.

Doing this every day almost on this one forum (not the only one) for the last 1.9 years or so helps.

So I don't worry about an attrition rate, I expect proper, fully functional rigs within proper temps when we at OCF are done.
 
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Are there any known issues with fitment of compression fittings on the Apogee XT using 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD tubing/fittings?

I know they come with regular barbs and the general concensus is there is no gain of using compression fittings, but i like the look of them..
 
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