lapping the IHS of a tualatin celery?

[MaxMuster]

Hi... i'd like to try lapping the IHS of my Celery 1.1a (the damn thing gets much too hot, temps exceeded 71°C @ 1466Mhz/1.825v) :( It's stable @ 1466Mhz/1.675v, but the temps are still out range...

Before I replace the retail heatsink, i'd like to try lapping the IHS and the heatsink, but I haven't done this before... what kind of sandpaper do I need?

If lapping doesn't help... which heatsink is recommended for a tualatin celery? The sk6 is way too expensive for me, would a FOP32i do?

[Bonka]

if the heatsink/IHS is in really bad shape, you'll want to work your way from 200 grit paper. In most cases, starting out at 300-400 grit is fine. There really is no standard method to sand it but a lot of people like to use the figure 8 motion. Make sure the sandpaper is nice and wet. Be sure to have a piece of glass or mirror to work on b/c you want a nice, flat, even surface in the end. Any grit from 1500+ is for polishing. Done more for looks than anything else.

Hmmm, you shouldn't be getting those kind of temps even with an Intel cooler. Make sure you've used some sort of thermal paste and applied in properly. Also, what is your case temps? Also, make sure you've mounted the heatsink properly onto the socket. If it's not getting contact with the chip, that's the problem. I've once forgot to put my heatsink back on my socket for 1/2 hour and my temps only rose to around 52-53 degrees celsius. This was with OC in my sig. I have no idea why your temps are so high.

A lot of heatsinks will work well for the Tualatin. Just stay away from orb fans at all cost.

The Fop should do fine. However, there are probably better performing heatsinks out there that are similar in pricing. Hmmm, you can try the Volcano 6Cu/6Cu+. I'm not sure if their copper base will cover the entire IHS but I'm pretty sure it will. They peform pretty good considering it's a Thermaltake product. They are also relatively cheap.

There's also the WBK38 which performs well, but do bear in mind it has a 7000rpm fan.

If you want something quiet, try looking into the Millenium Glaciator II. Not sure about the cost, but I hear it's great considering the noise output. The coolermaster heatsinks are also quiet but I've heard flaky results with them.

[pappypete]

First you need a good flat surface, I use a piece of
plate glass from the local hardware store. Some
hardware stores also have fine sand paper, start
with about #360 and you can go as fine as you want.
Another source for the sand paper is automotive
parts stores. Go slow when sanding and avoid any
kind of rocking motion ( keep it flat) Same for the
heat spreader, and HS.

[MaxMuster]

perhaps the temp readings are wrong... i mean... the heatsink is only warm to touch even when mbm or asusprobe show 65°C... stability problems don't occure 'til 71°C

the board is an asus tusl2-c with bios 1011 final

the cpu is @ 43°C with default speed/vcore, case temp is 32°C (two case fans) cannot get it below 28°C even when the case is open a a big fan is blowing into it... :(

[pappypete]

If the HS and CPU are not in good contact, the HS
will not feel warm. I use a temp probe to monitor
temps and it reads within 1C of bios.

[MaxMuster]

I already remounted the heatsink 3 times... always with a small amount of asII... (yes, i did remove the thermal pad)

[mighty mouse]

MaxMuster, what program are you using to read your temps?

[pappypete]

At this point, i believe you have 2 choices. Lap the HS
and heat spreader and see if your temps improve, or
confirm your temps with some sort of probe. Also, you
might be able to see a "kinda footprint" when you
remove the HS. Look for a thin spot in the ASll on HS.
This is an indication of irregular surface.

[Yodums]

Asus latest bios updates are weird... They were adding like 10 degrees on each. Take a probe or thermometer and measure ambient whatsoever your case shouldn't even be over 5 degrees of ambient.

Yodums

[MaxMuster]

@mighty mouse: mbm and asusprobe

@pappypete: the IHS has a scratch (had that already when i bought it... ), that's why I thought of lapping it... btw... when lapping the IHS... no wet sandpaper i guess... don't want to kill the cpu :)

@Yodums: will go back to 1009 and see whether temps are lower

[pappypete]

I lap the HS wet and heat spreader dry. LOL!! I
don't like the idea of water and CPU combo. Also
be sure HS is dry before install.

[MaxMuster]

thought so :)

btw... there's a little hole in the corner of the IHS... guess some dust from the lapping could get in there... ain't that a problem?

PS: thx for all the help :)

[pappypete]

My guess is, that hole is to maintain equal pressure
with rise and fall of temps. Anyone know for sure?

Edit......A small amount of dust should not cause a
problem.

[oldfart]

I had a C1.0A. The stock HS was pretty darn small. I would think the 1.1A is only slightly larger. I now run a PIII-S 1.26. The HS it came with is also kind of small. I would say that running 1466Mhz/1.825v (yikes that's a lot of Vcore!) would definitely call for a bigger HS. I would go that route.

[MaxMuster]

1.825v vCore was just for burning in and to see how far the temps go up... nice chip... didn't die @ 71°C (1.825v/1466MHz/full load) just got a bit unstable :eek:

running now @ 1,675v/1100MHz -> 45°C idle (way too high) :mad:

going back to bios rev. 1009 didn't help... a thermometer in the case showed the temp reading of the mainboard to be correct... 31°C case temp with 24°C room temp... :( (guess i should get one of those chieftec cases) :rolleyes:

tried another hs from a pIII-733 i had lying around (much smaller than the one that came with the celery), temps went up by 5°C... guess the heatsink DOES matter :o

[Pinky]

It sounds like the contact isn't being made...

clean the cpu and heatsink, reapply artic silver to only the CPU, then add the heatsink and clamp it... then immediately remove it and see if it was making contact (check the surface of the heatsink to be sure the entire IHS is making contact with the heatsink). I had a Pal6035 that wouldn't make contact properly and used this method to determine that... glaciator does, and the temps reflect it on my system... which rarely exceeds 40C.

[pappypete]

I agree with Pinky.......1.675CV@1100MHz temp 45C
is to high.

[ol' man]

I didn't read a whole lot here but if you have a retail chip and you feel you may need to lap the IHS I would think twice about it. My suggestion is to only lap with really fine sand paper cause the amount you need to go down is not much. Starting with 200grit will leave large scratches that you will have to try and get off. I don;t lap IHS's anymore I simply remove it period cause you actually do more damage lapping it than removing the HS. Once you expose the copper underneith it is totally opbvious you have tampered with the chip. Removing the IHS is trickier but when done right it can be glued back on if the chip need be rma'd. One thing I cannot figure out is how to color the IHS silver again:D Well there is a way but.........

[MaxMuster]

well... i have a 1000grit sandpaper here... just want to remove that nasty scratch on the IHS... i guess this is what is preventing proper contact between the IHS and the heatsing

[TASOS]

My opinion is to try and take off the IHS if you think you can do it.

ol'man has posted some pictures in previeus thread.

You will see much improvement on your temps.

I took it off and using FOP32 & AS II
40C full load.

[ol' man]

Originally posted by MaxMuster
well... i have a 1000grit sandpaper here... just want to remove that nasty scratch on the IHS... i guess this is what is preventing proper contact between the IHS and the heatsing

Thats more like it. You don't need to start with a very high grit sandpaper.

[MaxMuster]

removed the heatspreader from the 1.1A Celery (nice small core :)), lapped the retail-heatsink... still 60°C under full load @ 1466Mhz/1.675v (29°C case temp) :mad:

guess I either simply got a "hot" cpu... or the mainboard reports the wrong temperature...

will get a better hs next week

[rogue1979]

I lapped the HS on the 1.0a I bought from oldart. It didn't take long, dry sanded starting with 600, then 800, finished up with 1000-grit. Material was removed very quickly, nice copper finish when done. 1420MHz, 1.675v, 44c after running Prime 95 for 2 hours. Artic Silver II and a lapped FOP 38 with a YS-Tech 27cfm fan.