What highest OC for P3 1000 100FSB SL5QV on P2B-F

[ech0]

My highest OC for this CPU is 115 FSB.
If i put up to 124, Sometimes it won't boot up to the WINXP startup screen (It will just stop at the WINXP LOAD UP LOGO SCREEN).
I am using Globeorb with 7500 rpm fan. and i also use artic silver 2 on the CPU. I also have Hyundai PC133 memory.
Can someone points out what did i do wrong? I heard somepeople can OC up to 133FSB. But i can't even OC to 124 FSB :(
Oh yeah .. i am also using Asus 7700 geforce2 pro with a 4500 rpm on the gpu.

Any tips will be appriciated.

Thanks

ech0

[soil]

what's your Vcore?

[ech0]

I have tried to vcore from 1.8 to 2.1 with 0.05volt increment. But It still keep crashing everytime i boot the winxp.
I don't dare to increase more voltage :(

Thanks

[soil]

ummm:rolleyes:
take away the case, turn on the aircon, and get a better heatsink
slow down the RAM timing to 3-3-3
try again with your SL5QV
borrow an 133FSB PIII and check wurther your MB can run on 133

good luck:)

[Overclocker550]

you may need the tualatin core for more OC. the coppermine core maxes out not much above 1GHz

[Ebola]

all of the 1000E cdos seem to do arround 1300 mhz fine.

first off you need to ditch the orb and buy something better. soil's idea to try a 133 fsb cpu is a good idea too.

what kind of chipset is the board. if its a bx chipset your geforce might be crapping out on you since there is no 1/2 divider on bx boards for agp. you might want to test with a friend video card. some old tnt cards dont mind weird agp setting. my tnt card would do agp/fsb ratio of 1/1 at 103 mhz. yes its really odd.

[Ebola]

2.1v core is way to high unless you want the chip to die. for coppermines you should try to stay under 2.0 v

[Overclocker550]

Originally posted by Ebola
all of the 1000E cdos seem to do arround 1300 mhz fine.


********I had one that wouldnt go past 900, but I think it was cB0 well maybe watercooling will help :)*********

first off you need to ditch the orb and buy something better. soil's idea to try a 133 fsb cpu is a good idea too.
******watercooling********

what kind of chipset is the board. if its a bx chipset your geforce might be crapping out on you since there is no 1/2 divider on bx boards for agp.
**********almost all geforces take 89MHz agp, mine does 100MHz agp, might do more, never tested it higher********

you might want to test with a friend video card. some old tnt cards dont mind weird agp setting. my tnt card would do agp/fsb ratio of 1/1 at 103 mhz. yes its really odd.

[ech0]

Oh... i am in Australia right now. And the temperature right now is about 35 C in the afternoon. and i don't have aircond at home :(
I need good cooler sugestion on this.
The cooler that available in my area are:
GlobalWin CAKII-38
Thermaltake Volcano 7
GlobalWin WAW38

TIA

[soil]

can consider JustCooler P8000 as it uses quieter 80mm fan, see:
http://www.dansdata.com/coolercomp.htm

if you want use the 60mm hsf, bear in mind that the copper one has smaller space between the fins and require larger CFM (Delta screamer), use thermal paste

so you got your SL5QV via online store or it's available in Australia?

[ech0]

Soil: i bought the p3 1000 sl5qv from ebay for $157 i know it's a bit expensive. But as you know None of this chip available in australian stores.
But i am happy now i can run 1150 after upgrading from p2 400 :)
Now i am trying to pump up the cpu at least 1240.
Please post any suggestions :)

[soil]

it's almost the same as mine though I got it from Computer Geeks, the problem is that it was sold in eBay because it can't go to 133, anyway, go for a good heatsink...my SL5QV hanged at 47C, I am now testing the combinations of the in-take fan, CPU fan and PSU fan to minimise the fan noise but maintain some stability. Seems like speed, temperature and noise has a formula: S/TN=constant

[Celemine1Gig]

Hi ech0,

I would try out 133 MHz FSB before buying a new heatsink or anything like that, because if you're lucky, your motherboard swithes to 1/4 PCI-divider if you run it at 133 MHz FSB.

Try it and maybe you're lucky. I don't think it's the CPU, because the fact that the increase of VCore didn't help clearly shows that!!!

[Overclocker550]

Originally posted by soil
it's almost the same as mine though I got it from Computer Geeks, the problem is that it was sold in eBay because it can't go to 133, anyway, go for a good heatsink...my SL5QV hanged at 47C, I am now testing the combinations of the in-take fan, CPU fan and PSU fan to minimise the fan noise but maintain some stability. Seems like speed, temperature and noise has a formula: S/TN=constant

so they actaully overclock their cpus and sell them as 1333MHz cpus, and ebay the ones that wont do 133fsb? man I wouldnt be supprised if some of you guys that bought 133fsb cpus are actually already overclocked. Theres a cpu test that will tell you if its overclocked or not and it works on pentium3's and up

[QSW]

I got my SL5QV stable at 1380@ 2.05v, it can run everything stable except 3dmark2k1 (crashes to desktop in less than an hour). If I up the voltage to 2.2v, I can run everything stable including 3dm, but the chip gets real hot under load ~50C. the CPU is cooled by a Dynatron Copper heatsink with a YS tech 40cfm fan. The voltage regulators (not sure if thats the name but it's the square thingy with 3 legs behind the cpu slot) gets even hotter. I had to attach heatsinks and a 60mm fan to cool them.

Try better cooling on ur cpu and check if ur northbridge is toasty. I managed to up the fsb by 2mhz on my BE6II2.0 by cooling the northbridge and the PLL chip.

[Yodums]

Originally posted by ech0
Soil: i bought the p3 1000 sl5qv from ebay for $157 i know it's a bit expensive. But as you know None of this chip available in australian stores.
But i am happy now i can run 1150 after upgrading from p2 400 :)
Now i am trying to pump up the cpu at least 1240.
Please post any suggestions :)

Heres my suggestions:

Burn in the CPU w/ a program like Prime95 (Torture Test), or the something that contributes to the OC Team like (SETI - Search for Extra Terrestrial Intelligence, or Folding - Cure dieseases).

Now if your wondering what burn in is. Its like starting your CPU up where you want it. Burning in helps put the CPU under load and you can achieve extra speed from this or use it to test stablity of your chip and so on.

Now while its under load, check your temperatures (Assuming you have Motherboard Monitor installed and configed to show temps etc). Usually when your overclocked it shouldn't be above 40ºC, because it is either too hot or kills the life of the chip too much.

Make sure your PSU rails are never under too much (Like 5v rail - 4.7 is too low or usually anything under 4.85 under load is too low.)

From here you can narrow down two possiblities holding you back. Heat and psu. I think it is the heat because your an Australian and that country is heat all around.

I would recommend like 4 100mm Case Fans and a better heatsink if you want to keep clocking to the max and raise your voltage without worrying about heat.

Other than that everything ELSE should be OK!

Yodums

[soil]

Originally posted by Overclocker550


so they actaully overclock their cpus and sell them as 1333MHz cpus...


- No, they are sold as 1000mhz cpu

and ebay the ones that wont do 133fsb?

- it's only my suspicion



:D

[Overclocker550]

could it be possible for some dishonest seller to sell an overclocked cpu and say its a 1GHz p3 when its really a 750e?

[ech0]

Okay just now i have a trial on the cpu.
I switched off the computer the whole night.
and this morning from fresh up ... i tried to put it to 124 fsb. and It boot and startup smoothly into the winxp.
I have run on 1240 for a couple mins.
I think the problem is with the heat. I will see how many mins untill it crash ...
Maybe i gotta get a new heatsink and a fan.
I really need a suggestion on what heatsink and fan should i get.
Some sites said globwin is good. and others say alpha is good.

TIA

[funnyperson1]

a good price/performance/noise is the Millenium Glaciator for like 25-30$.....

[ech0]

Does copper heatsink alot better than alluminum heatsink?
How much better is it?

Thanks

[soil]

compared with aluminum heatsink, copper heatsink is theoretically better (~30% heat transfer) if other factors (esp size, shape) are the same, practically, they are smaller, fines are closer to each other, so requiring a fan of higher RPM

and few copper heatsink (except cooljag, kenie) has one-piece design ie the fins are part of the base and skived from a piece of copper, which are more expensive

aluminum heatsinks are alomost always one-piece but again anodised so there are not two copper and aluminum heatsinks of idenetiical shape/design for direct comparison

if fan noise is not your concern get a delta 7000rpm and it'll be okay, based on my experience, using copper heatsink cannot replace the need for a good strong fan

the pricy 1-piece copper choices are Kenie 294M, Hedgehog typeW, Cooljag but you still need a strong fan

I recently find this new GlobalWin TAK68, which seems quiet and have a good water-cool style retention clip: http://www.globalwin.com.tw/tw/cd_html.html