My first effort was as much a proof of design, though not absolutely necessary, given Cathars hard work already along those lines. I was as much a proof of technique verifying I could fabricate what I needed to make it work. Now for my second attempt. I got PMs asking me to give more details in the process, so I've included more pictures and steps. This can be done with a Drill press, hack saw, files, dremel tool sand paper and patience. If you're steady-handed, it could even be accomplished with just a good hand drill, using careful layout and measuring along the way, though it would take more time.
First off what did I change from the first version. I decided to use less pipes of greater diameter, for ease of fabrication (completed in one weekend) and to reduce the resistance to flow. Here's a diagram comparing the two concepts:
[IMG]
http://hill195.home.mchsi.com/Jet2/concept.jpg [/IMG]
Here's a stereo microscope image showing a rea-time difference in the area of the two pipe sizes:
To expedite the process and standardize the length of the individual pipes, I determined the length needed to reach near the bottom of each cup, drilled an old piece of stock to that length and used it as a length jig. Just insert the raw brass tubing stock into the hole, cut it off, remove the pipe and repeat:
When you're done, you need to deburr the pipes. I used a dremel tapered bit in my pin-vise for that:
I Drilled the top plate holes with the bottom plate attached so that the drill bit (3/32) penetrates the top plate and then continues down to drill the first diameter holes for the cups. That way, the pipes are registered with their respective cups. I then insert all the 3/32 pipes until they bottom out in their respective cups. Then, using a tapered remnant of a broken drill bit, I swage the end of the pipes into the top plate. You can find swaging techniques all around the web:
When completed, the top plate looks like this:
And this:
Once all the holes are drilled, I then enlarge the cups to their final 1/8 diameter and depth just slightly deeper than the pipes insert into them. When the three plates are completed, they look like this:
Edit Whoops, the top plate doesn't show the hole for the return flow barb. Sorry...
Before sandwiching the three plates together, I lap them as flat as can be accomplished in a reasonable time, thoroughly degrease them, spread a thin, emphasis
thin layer of Silicone rubber on them to form a sealing gasket, then bolt them together. The final product looks like this:
As with all my blocks, I then lap the baseplate, again as flat as I have patience to pursue. I use 220, 400 and 600 Wet-or-Dry with soapy water to get this result:
The block is in my PC at home, priming and waiting for the AS5 to settle in. From my initial temperatures, it looks like a winner. Once I get the problems with how my motherboard reads the thermal diode resolved, I'll be able to scale my reading and give you some actual values. Relative to a commercial block as a comparison standard, it exceeds the Swiftech MCW6002-64 by 1C idle and 2C load.
The brass tubing for the pipes can be either ordered from smallparts.com or obtained locally at a decent hobby store. In my case, "Hobbytown". If anyone is considering a shot at this, I have an extra 3-pack or 1 foot long 3/32 tubes left over which you are welcome to for the price of postage.
Hoot
Edit, not sure why some of the images didn't show. I rechecked the links...