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Waterblock Design

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i have always wanted to try this one, but dont have a mill rite now, this fall and winter ill come out with man waterblocks(in school)
heres the flow path

-edit- that leaves you with 1/16inch wide walls...
 
maskedgeek said:
i have always wanted to try this one, but dont have a mill rite now, this fall and winter ill come out with man waterblocks(in school)
heres the flow path

-edit- that leaves you with 1/16inch wide walls...

Well I must say. This design is interesting. I hadn't even consider something like this. I'm goingto need to work on the numbers and think about it a while. The other annoying thing is I have to convert everything to mm. Here in Germany no ones going to have mils or inches on their mills. Why can't we americans simply switch over? I would make things so much easier, and we wouldn't crash land space probes.
 
Maskedgeek-

I've been looking at the design for a couple of minutes now. It has some very good points. For example the water going around the die will be moving faster. This is good because this is where it is most needed. However, I wonder about the fact that the outside chamber being to big. The 1/8" channel feeding two 1/4" channels could cause irregular flow on one side or the other. The wide around path makes me wonder too if this will cause it to be a low resistance path (since 1/8" feeds two 1/4" as compared to the other two straight thorugh 1/8" paths).

Much to be thought about and pondered. But it definately is the most original design I've seen in a while, well at least that I could do or would want to do.
 
ok so its... 50.8x50.8mm block size 76.2x50.8mm is the top and the mounting holes are 36mmx66mm
1/4 is 6.35mm 1/8 is 3.175mm you could just go with 6mm and 3mm
 
maskedgeek said:
ok so its... 50.8x50.8mm block size 76.2x50.8mm is the top and the mounting holes are 36mmx66mm
1/4 is 6.35mm 1/8 is 3.175mm you could just go with 6mm and 3mm

Conversion is no problem. I grew up with the english system, but have lived in Germany 3 times. Believe me at this point I have all of the conversoin numbers memorized:
2.54cm = 1 inch
3.8 L = 1 gallon
etc. etc.
The only thing I really hate trying to covnert is miles per gallon to the metric system, because they use liters per 100km, and that means not only converting both miles and gallons, but flipping the whole thing on its head (more or less).

The issue is figuring out what size nipples I can get here. So far I've had trouble finding smaller nipples. The only nipples that I've found that aren't for garden hose sized stuff are the nipple for pneumatic tools. I've found some nice ones online here in Germany, but I'd rather see what I'm getting before ordering, and I think the price could be better.
 
what you need is 1/2x1/8 npd fittings if you can get them like that, otherwize... dont know..
 
OK I jsut learned pictures can only be 600x600 and that I don't know how to use Photoshop to well. I accidently created 1 pixel per mm instead of the 10 like i had thought and stated. I fixed that with the pic I just made, but it was too big, so now its 5 pixels per mm. Although its still more or less just a rough sketch.

Basically this design is based on the design by maskedgeek. Except that this one can be done with only one piece of metal and using only a drill press. Basically anywhere a line meets the edge is where you'd drill from. Then the holes would be drilled from the top and that's that. I like the idea of drilling instead of milling, because it allows for one piece construction and I think 1 piece construction poses less of risk for leaks. At least for a newbie in metal work. I also like the round paths compared to square ones. They may have less surface area, but I think the heat can transfer up the round paths better.

My only thought is how one 10mm hole feeding 2 10 mm paths would affect flow. I mean it would reduce resistance and probably allow more water through the block. At the same time the water in the block would be moving slower.

Hmmmm. Fluid Dynamics sux. I'm glad I'm an electrical engineer.
 
that could be good, but the other way would be better, more surface area.... and cince you have access to a mill why not use it?
 
Solder it ...
Takes a brazing torch,Silver Solder, and about 20 minutes !!

~~ Some Oven mits wouldnt hurt :D ~~
 
i use flux pipe soldier, and a stove.... just flux the block and heat it up on a stove and soldier it...
 
it doesnt matter what kind of stove, you just heat it up till the soldier melts, then shut it off and soldier it
 
maskedgeek said:
it doesnt matter what kind of stove, you just heat it up till the soldier melts, then shut it off and soldier it

I've done a lot of soldering, but only of electronics. When you say "solder", do you use the same solder with sealing copper as one uses in Electronics or is this stuff different?
 
you can use that but the stuff you should use you can get at a hardware store, its for "sweating" pipes and stuff, you need soldier and flux, then just(i stick a sheet of aluminum foil over the burner) flux were you need the joint, then set them together like they are suposed to be, and heat it up till the soldier will melt and touch it to the sides a little bit not so that you over do it.. but just enough.. so you see soldier all the way around it
 
I use a brazing torch to heat it up but its the same principle ..
When the "Whole" block gets up to temperature the solder will flow wherever the flux was used like magic ...
I touched the solder to one spot on the joint between block and cap and BAAM !!! the whole block was sealed ..
You just have to slowly feed the solder in and and be careful not to use too much ...

Kinda kewl actually ... cant wait till we seal my son's block up :D
 
lol, it is pretty cool, i tried to seal up my last block with a propane torch, and i couldnt get it to heat up and when i did it all the flux from one area burnt off.... so i just use the stove now..
 
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