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watercooling temp high

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peewee

Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2001
well i installed my watercooler kit, but my temp is at 47c right now, thats more than with my old hsf?. i knoticed the water is not flowing through the tubes fully, its going out the pump fine and into the rad fine, but when it comes out the rad its like only filling the tube halfway?. i knoticed a dent in one of the copper tubes on the radiator and its pushed in pretty far.!
mitch
 
What water cooling kit did you get? If only half of the tube exiting the rad has water in it you have air in your system. You must bleed the air out. What happens when an air pocket hits the pump? .....Nothing the pump can't move air so you don't have enough waterflow to keep the cpu cool. As for the dent in the rad can you post or send me an email with a pic?
 
hmm, yeah get the air out, that is probably causing the probs for everything. Also, are you using some sort of thermal compound between everything? That will affect things too.
 
well, i tried to tighten the holddown and snap went the dam lug!!. while the comp was on, my temp montor went to 113c and i yanked the plug, how can i tell if i made a keychain? i ordered one of those lexan holddowns for the block, and a new radiator because us mail is paying for the dented one, so i'll try again friday when it comes and yes i was using arctic silver2 in what order should i have the tubing ran? i have it going from the reservoir to the radiator from the rad to the block to the reservoir, is this right?
i just hope i didint make a keychain!!!
 
113c, WOW!!!
I bet if my PIII got that hot I'd have a keychain. Hottest mines ever got was 76c!

I think I heard AMD's were good up to 90c or so. So you better keep your fingers crossed! Why dont you put the HSF back on and give her a run once.
 
If you have a pump in the reservoir I think you have it right. The out of the rad should feed the block.

You gotta watch that last tweek, do I really have it tight enough? thats the one that gets you. On AMD's I only use the holes for mounts, never the tabs. I don't like having a heavy chunk of metal hanging on by tabs when a machine is transported. All you need to do is cut an old peice of plexiglass, get 4 bolt some springs and thumb screws there is no need to buy a hold-down kit.
 
bdf24 (May 01, 2001 04:51 p.m.):
Why dont you put the HSF back on and give her a run once.

cauz i broke the lug the hsf would onnect to
 
what direction is the water flow? are you pumping into the rad Before the waterblock? or from the reservior to the waterblock(on the fitting that is closest to the center of the die) and the other fitting should take the water out(warm) and go into the rad(so it can cool) and them back to the reservior.
 
robjustice (May 01, 2001 07:31 p.m.):
what direction is the water flow? are you pumping into the rad Before the waterblock? or from the reservior to the waterblock(on the fitting that is closest to the center of the die) and the other fitting should take the water out(warm) and go into the rad(so it can cool) and them back to the reservior.
this is how i had it setup
from the reservour pumping water into the rad from the rad out to the block, from the block back to the reservour.
tell me if this is right or do i need to change it around, seem like it really wouldent make a diffrence as long as its going throught the rad, but i might be wrong.
 
I have my setup going the opposite way. My reservoir to the block to the radiator, back to the reservoir. I dont know how much of a difference it would make.

I just figured that I would have it go from the block to the radiator to pull all the heat out after crossing the cpu. Then it would from the radiator to the resevoir and sit there for a while to get a chance to cool off some more before it goes back to the block.

Don't know if this is right or wrong, Just ended up setting it up that way.
 
It should be res, radiator, cpu. Where do you want the water the coolest? Just before it goes on the cpu or just after the cpu? Not as important for inlines, but still would go that way.
 
Thelemac (May 01, 2001 09:19 p.m.):
It should be res, radiator, cpu. Where do you want the water the coolest? Just before it goes on the cpu or just after the cpu? Not as important for inlines, but still would go that way.

thats what i though and what i have setup.....
 
i have mine goin from res to rad to cpu. I also had to tighten it that last little bit and broke the tit on my mobo. My temp made it to 122f then i shut it down. I order the lexan holdown too, it will be here tommorrow. but for now i have the current clip goin diagonal across the chip and works just as well but this time i didn't snug it down.. ya learn from your mistakes.

also the chip won't be a keychain until you start gettin up around 70c.
 
slaveboy (May 01, 2001 10:44 p.m.):
also the chip won't be a keychain until you start getting up around 70c.

He said it got up to 113 degrees celcius, not Fahrenheit! That would be 235 degrees Fahrenheit! I gotta say I think your chip is dead man!
 
No, you have it set up wrong. The flow should be as follows-from the pump to the waterblock, going in as close to the center of the die as possible. Out of the waterblock to the RADIATOR and out of the rad to the reservoir. Check it out at dangerden here

This is done for several reasons. The first is a rad is most effective the greater the temp difference is. The second-why would you want your reservoir radiating heat in your case? Which in turn would raise case temps, so the air going thru the rad would be hotter, and you would have less of a temp drop across the rad.
 
robjustice (May 02, 2001 06:53 a.m.):
No, you have it set up wrong. The flow should be as follows-from the pump to the waterblock, going in as close to the center of the die as possible. Out of the waterblock to the RADIATOR and out of the rad to the reservoir. Check it out at dangerden here

This is done for several reasons. The first is a rad is most effective the greater the temp difference is. The second-why would you want your reservoir radiating heat in your case? Which in turn would raise case temps, so the air going thru the rad would be hotter, and you would have less of a temp drop across the rad.

Correct.
 
bdf24 (May 02, 2001 05:52 a.m.):
slaveboy (May 01, 2001 10:44 p.m.):
also the chip won't be a keychain until you start getting up around 70c.

He said it got up to 113 degrees celcius, not Fahrenheit! That would be 235 degrees Fahrenheit! I gotta say I think your chip is dead man!

maybe my temp program was being stupid for a second, i took the chip out and its not burnt nor does it smell burnt, maybe this is a good sign...
the desktop screen was stillon when i pulled the plug to, so i hope i didint fry it..
 
He said it got up to 113 degrees celcius, not Fahrenheit! That would be 235 degrees Fahrenheit! I gotta say I think your chip is dead man![/quote]

well i hooked up my system again and all i got was a blank screen and a smell of burnt amd chip!! damb m first try at oc'in failed not to mention will cost me a about 230 bucks more, but i think with the lexan plate i got i wont have a prob with the block coming off the chip!...
 
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