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Maze3 or TC-4

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Tuhran said:
Greetings, all...
I'm having the same issue; I've been haunting the D-Tek site waiting for some word on the P4 mounts for the TC-4. I've emailed him about it, but haven't heard back yet.
Hopefully, I'll be putting this new system of mine together in the next few weeks, and I'd like to have my WC setup ready.
Bottom line: If the TC-4 P4 adapter doesn't materialize soon, do any of you know of a hold down that you would recommend for this block?
Thanks.

I actually did receive a quick response to my email asking about this same thing. He said "in the coming weeks"...

In any case, if you're reasonably handy, I bet it would not be too difficult to hack something up yourself. Of course doing so would not be the perfectionist's approach, but still.
 
Thanks, Fizz. Actually, one of the things that interests me about watercooling is the metal-shop aspect. Currently, however, my shop is being used as a storage facility, so homemade solutions will have to wait
This rig is also part of a major system upgrade (which introduces a money factor--hence, no WW), so I may just chill and see which comes first, the TC-4 adapter, or the GFX:) .
If the VaporFX actually hits the market first, I'll take advice like slipknot's (thx) on alternatives into consideration.
 
I just noticed this Socket 478 hold down adapter on the Danger Den site. The Maze 2 that the one on the left is designed for is very similar in size to the TC-4 (M2: 3.15"x2"x5/8", TC-4: 3"x2"x0.8").
Think it might work, or does the slight size differential make it iffy? Anybody try this?
 
it really should work, it may be a little wiggly, but after its all tightened down it should do good, If I had a larger vice I would be making some hold downs.... my vice is much too small.
 
Tuhran said:
I just noticed this Socket 478 hold down adapter on the Danger Den site. The Maze 2 that the one on the left is designed for is very similar in size to the TC-4 (M2: 3.15"x2"x5/8", TC-4: 3"x2"x0.8").
Think it might work, or does the slight size differential make it iffy? Anybody try this?

You could also take the height between the top of the block and the inner P4 hold-down plastics and simply make a bar of that thickness stretching from one side of the hold-down plastic to the other. All you'll need to do then is to make 2 small dimples on the bar where the P4 clamp mechanism slides over it. Simple enough actually.

Here is a picture of one that I have for my Innovatek block.

http://www.overclockingcard.de/pd-1399841570.htm
 
NeoMoses said:
I'm making a top for a TC-4 that has P4 mounts and a center inlet. It'll be pretty cool.


Remember you will need to make the tops for TC-4 REV 2 & REV 3. REV 2 is the top you made for me below. D-tek has a new block out currently. This block below was the first to try a three barb top. I am currently using a jet sprayer in the center barb.

water%20block.jpg
 
Go to their website. The latest version has straight sided barbs with o-rings. The base is bigger and thinner than the TC-4 R2.

The bottom line, the tops are not interchangeable so NeoMoses would have to make different style tops to fit the two different blocks that are currently on the market.

The old top which is now called TC-4 R2
b10lwdr1.jpg


The new TC-4 REV2 as per their website.
bz12h14g.jpg
 
so the "TC-4 Rev 2 (Poly Topped)" has a different base than the "Aluminum Topped TC-4 Waterblock"? is there much of a noticeable difference between them besides the differnt barbs and thicknesses? better performance?
 
torchedlh said:
so the "TC-4 Rev 2 (Poly Topped)" has a different base than the "Aluminum Topped TC-4 Waterblock"? is there much of a noticeable difference between them besides the differnt barbs and thicknesses? better performance?

I can't answer if it produces better performance. I don't own that block. I have the older TC-4 block that is modded. I can say my modded block performs better.
 
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