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Does it will "battery effect"?

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Mercury Lenth

Registered
Joined
Jan 18, 2003
Location
Montreal
I'm about to put water in my serpent (for a 24h leak test), but I haven't receive my waterwetter yet, so I was wondering if battery effect could result of that test.

I use a TC-4 rev2 (aliminum toped).
I have no radiator or heater core.
I have galvanized steel fittings.
And I have brass (or cooper) fittings as well.

So I ask you, does it will "battery effect"?

EDIT: I will use demineralized water.

Thanx in advance

~ Mercury
 
Last edited:
Well, I got an Eheim 1250, but I think that it’s made all of plastic or non-metallic material so I thought that it wasn't an important detail. And yes, I have zero radiator... zero fan :)
 
Mercury Lenth said:
Well, I got an Eheim 1250, but I think that it’s made all of plastic or non-metallic material so I thought that it wasn't an important detail. And yes, I have zero radiator... zero fan :)

i think you are right on the eheim being non-metallic, but i was wondering how you achived a zero rad/zero fan setup, are you using a monster res, ie 5+ gallons, or an underpowered system, like a 800mhz and under, or do you not run your system 24/7? and what are you temps with zero rad/zero fan?
 
I use a 13 meters garden hose as a heat-dissipater. The hose will sit on the cold concrete under the carpet. The pump is in a home made anti-sonic box, so I won’t hear either.

To do list:
Silencing GPU cooling fan (solution: water-cooling).
Silencing HD (solution: water-cooling + sand (or foam)).
Silencing PSU (solution:
undecided.gif
).

Note: I have a XP 1700+ @ stock voltage and speed.

My comp isn’t on in the night. I cannot tell you about the temps yet since the water-block isn’t installed, I have to make a leak test before.

Any advice for my original question?
 
i dont know if you will get any sort of battery effect, from using the disimuler metals, but if you run some anti-freeze about 3-4 oz per gallon you should not have a problem, and this little amount of anti-freeze will not hinder your cooling ability, and anti-freeze, like water wetter, has anti-corosives aditive in it and should stop(not realy but close enough) any sort of corosion that may hapen in your system. hope this helps :)
 
np... we're users, not abusers. you figured out from my post that next time you want to find a conversion it is easy to find on google. thats what the forums are here for, to help eachother learn. :)
 
Well, I knew that I could find that on Google (or in the kitchen with our metric calculator), but I was to lazy, that's why I thought I had "abused" the forum ;) hehe

And indeed this forum is very informative, I knew nothing about water-cooling 2 month ago and now I know pretty all the basics, and I've manage to built my first WC system (I haven’t installed it yet though), tx guys.
 
Mercury Lenth said:
Well, I knew that I could find that on Google (or in the kitchen with our metric calculator), but I was to lazy, that's why I thought I had "abused" the forum ;) hehe


SHHH dont tell ne one but i do that sometimes too:D lolz i like the gaurder hose idea... you could always wtaer cool your PSU...
 
CrashOveride said:
you could always wtaer cool your PSU...
Yeah, that's an idea, but for now it seems pretty too advanced for me, since I'm not even able to fill my water-cooling setup properly :(

That's no joke guys; I think I need help here...

My problem isn’t cause by water, but by AIR. The thing is that I use a T junction as opposed to a reservoir, but how can I make the air go away with that thing? Since I have a 13 meters hose as my heat-dissipater, there is A LOT of air in my setup. Everything works “fine” (no leak at all), but the air just doesn’t want to go out…

What would you do?
 
what you should do is place the 'T' at the top of your cooling loop, ie the highest point, then with your pump turned OFF, ( and everything hooked up) slowly fill up your system, and it should displace most of the air in your system.

then with the cap put back on your 'T' fitting, turn the pump on and it should trap all of the left over air in your system. if this does not work, let us know, some system can take aslong as 24/36 hours to get all of the air out of their systems. hope this helps :)
 
Ok, and if the 'T' isn't at the top of my cooling loop what do I do?

2 hours later - It looks far better, pretty much all the air is out, but there still A LOT of MINI bubbles that seem to be stick on the tubing walls, how do I get those out? They don’t seem to move at all...

Does all those bubbles could be due to the anti-freeze?

Note: I had to fill the whole thing with the pump ON, otherwise it would have never filled up. So it have created a lot of turbulence and a lot of bubbles.
 
ok, i see what you are saying, the little micro bubbles on the side of your system should slowly move with the water twards the T air trap and will leave your system in a while, also when you get the WW and add it to you system it will reduce the surface tension of the water and that will help move the air up and out of your system through the T, i dont think that the anti-freeze is the cause of your air bubles, you would have the bubbles any ways.
 
Your quick feedback is very much appreciated guys, tx.

So it's not THAT bad if my T isn't at the very top, heh?

It took me around 1h30 to fill that thing up, is that normal? Well, I got a lot more tubing then usual...

And the 1250 is VERY loud IMO, damn I can even hear it when the box is closed, and it sleeps on 2 inch of foam (in the box, and the box is double isolated/damped), but when I take it in my hands, the low vibrations are very much attenuated, so I try to suspend it into the box with fishing line, what do you think?
 
Ok today pretty much all the bubbles are gone: YA! :)

Now, how would you recommend me to empty that thing?
 
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