Best mod for a Koolance

Ok, yes I've done some home built systems before, so don't laugh at me for using a Koolance.

I bought the koolance for:
1. Well anchored components.
2. Fits entirely within case.
3. Does not take up too much space.
4. Dual pumps.
5. Turns on/off with computer.
6. Not too loud.
7. Coolers that mount on socket tabs that can be removed as easily as a heatsink.
8. Looks good.

I'm cooling a DUAL with this thing, and it does NOT have mounting holes in the motherboard.
I'm able to go quite a bit further with this than I was with slk-800's, so it's been worth it, but I'm just not satisfied with my temperatures and my current overclock.

I just want to know, from anyone who has the experience, what can I do to improve this thing's performance? Whatever you suggest must NOT counteract any of the eight reasons above.
Can I put 92mm fans in this? A better radiator?

i have a exos too wanted better performance.

i have to 12cm ystech fd1212253b-2f fans inplace of the 3 8cm fans. They pass more cfm and are also make less noise.
the fans are a perfect fit for the rad in the exos. unfortuanley the top wont fit but i found it perfomed better without it.


you also could try a second rad if you can get one to fit the 6mm tube.

sorry but i dont have any temp reading to show you.

hope this helps.

ughhh...Koolance......only thing you can do to help temps on that thing is to go 1/2''

That would involve a new pump, new waterblocks and new tubing.

I'd stuff 120s on the radiator, and try to see if you could get a more powerful pump for starters. A Maxijet 1200 might work well. Anything too powerful would be overkill with 1/4" tubing and those super-slim waterblocks.

Giblet Plus! said:

That would involve a new pump, new waterblocks and new tubing.

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My point

I don't know what everyone's problem with Koolance is.

1) Reliable setup.
2) As cool or cooler than aggressive air.
3) Silent.
4) Cheap as hell.

So its not going to make you get the fastest system. For the price, you absolutely can't beat it if you want the 4 features I mentioned and the other 8 Caffinehog listed.

I went with it because my Alpha PAL 8045/Delta combo is just to goddamn loud. Got a PC2-601W, 200-Gold block, and a chipset block for $243 shipped. You absolutely can't beat that with a stick.

Well, I think I've figured out a couple things I can do. I'm going to replace the stock fans with a couple high-pressure panaflo's from directron. A bit more CFM's, a little less noise, but about TWICE the air pressure. That should help the air go through all the little fins on the radiator.
Also, I'm going to cut out a hole in the front of the top bay the cooler part takes up. This should let cooler air in or allow for a better outlet for air if I make all the fans blow down.

brywalker said:

4) Cheap as hell.

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Uh, not really. You can get a nice Chieftec mid tower (the popular kind) for about $40, and a very nice custom water cooling system for $200. Still better than the koolance in every way.

Caffinehog - Sounds like a good start. I'd add a more powerful pump if you're going to be running more than one waterblock. The stock ones are pretty wimpy.

OK, guys, don't argue about whether koolance or something else is better. I know I can do a heck of a lot better than this, but I have already stated why I went with this one.

Now I know of ways that I can adapt this to waterblocks with bigger openings, but, here's the question:
What is the best waterblock for a slow flow-rate, (which I'm sure this will give,) that attaches via the SOCKET LUGS? (I.E.
not holes in the motherboard.)

Why changing a 200W waterblock? (unless you have the 100W)

It won't make much of a difference (changing the 200)

LiGhTBoY said:

Why changing a 200W waterblock? (unless you have the 100W)

It won't make much of a difference (changing the 200)

Click to expand...

The koolance "wattage" ratings don't mean much, that's why.


The WW works great even with slow flow, but that uses the four holes. There's got to be a way to mount one using the lugs, but I haven't seen anyone try it yet.

I bet the new swiftech MCW5000s are the best waterblocks that use the socket lugs.

Since you asked,

I got a PC2-601 case with the G200 CPU cooler ($211 shipped). However, I went with Innovatek blocks for GPU and NB. The Koolance hose fits if you use a little elbow grease to slip on. This was my first H20 setup and I needed a new case anyway so this was ideal. But I plan the following upgrades:

1) Better pump - I already got an Iwaki MD-6 pump from eBay. From my aquarium experience I can guarantee you that Iwaki's have the best pressure performance with almost zero heat transfer to the water. I'll need a pump relay, but will probably just make my own. This one should pump about 60-80 GPH with my estimate of 2-3 ft head pressure. This would be more than 6X the flow of the standard Koolance pumps.

2) The Iwaki uses 1/2" hose so this means I need a new radiator. I'm planning on using an Black Ice Extreme II since it is a double 120mm size like the Koolance. I'm going to shop around for something cheaper though since this goes for $90.

3) I will upgrade the fans to either Panaflo or Papst 80 mm and run at 100%. This should push almost 90 CFM at the same noise level. It would be better if I used 2 x 120 mm fans, but I want to avoid as much case modification as possible. My case mod skills suck. This was the main reason why I needed a new case!

4) I will upgrade to a Danger Den Maze 3 CPU block with 1/2" hose. Haven't decided how to attach the Koolanc temp sensor to this block. I may need to file down a depression.

5) I will use a 1/2" to 3/8" Y adapter and run 3/8" hose to each of my Innovatek blocks in parallel from the Danger Den block. I'll probably use a clamp to push more water to the GPU instead of NB. Another Y adapter returns 1/2" hose to the pump.

6) Of course I'll need 3/8" (10mm) adapters for the Innovatek blocks.

My current system now runs about 20 deg C above ambient under load (Prime95 and 3dMark2001). This is the CPU temp via MBM. If I just run Prime95 and put the GPU in standby, I run about 16 deg C above ambient. This isn't too bad, but is close to the limit of 50 deg C when the weather gets warmer. I hope to drop at least 5-10 deg C with the upgrades.

Of course you might be asking why I didn't do this in the first place since I'd be replacing just about everything. Well, I now have some experience under my belt to go ahead and do this. If I can dump my spare Kooance parts on eBay, I hope to just be out another $100-$150.

I went with a Koolance as well, for my first H2O cooler. I am happy with it, "sure beats the jet engine noise (volcano 9)" as my wife puts it. She loves how quiet it is now. And it lets me run my processor at max voltage (w/o volt mods) at it's highest speed @ ~30C.

I would like to cool my Radeon 9700 though with it but the water is too warm after going thru the CPU WB. And there is not enough pressure to split the hose so I was thinking of adding another RAD. in either the 2 spare 5.25 bays, or the 3.5 bays or perhaps mounting it at the rear where the fan cut out is.