designing my own WB

the machinist can't ope the dwg!! lol he has to wait for hi engineer to get there. so we'll see how much it'll cost. how about not having the loopys and only having two straight channels to the outlets?

please post back when you get a price. I am just getting into the home CNC world and wonder how much some of these places charge (never had the desire to mave someone make me a part before)

broken003 said:

please post back when you get a price. I am just getting into the home CNC world and wonder how much some of these places charge (never had the desire to mave someone make me a part before)

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My machinist charges $40/hr. plus materials.

NeoMoses said:

My machinist charges $40/hr. plus materials.

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How long does it usually take them to make a block??
i plan to have someone make mine..

dont ditch the loopies they add turbulence and look PHAT!

Korndog said:

How long does it usually take them to make a block??
i plan to have someone make mine..

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It really depends on the complexity and ,most importantly, the size of the channels....smaller channels(for instance the WW channels are 1mm x5mm x30mm) require non standard tooling and significantly longer milling time, due to the shallow passes one must make to cut the block with such a small end mill.

Most will charge a flat hourly rate(no shop around here would touch anything for under $65 Hr.)

Every place is different.....You might find that they are charging more than that per Hr., or much less......You just look around.
Id suggest going to look at the place in person to get a feel of what type of shop it is....a good rule of thumb is ,the cleaner more organized the better quality of work(hence the larger prices too...but worth it IMO, if you have no CNC of your own)
Theres alot of planning in CNC milling. And it takes alot of practice to be good, no matter how much your machinery costs.
Its a whole bigger task than just slapping a peice of material to the table and pressing go on the controller!

Just be prepaired to dig deep into your pocket!!

I really want to take machining at LCC. At my old high school we had a large CNC and two tabletop machines. I loved the tabletop machines, we controlled them directly from the computer via the CAM program.

I am going to cut the block height down by chopping the top off to where the curve in the channels starts. and I am also going to re-draw it in inches, not mm.

Pits said:

What’s wrong with white water clones? If it works why reinvent the wheel? I understand wanting to be different and that’s cool. But isn't the most efficient cooling possible what most of us are really after?
Don't get me wrong stealing someone’s design and turning it into a commercial product is a little under handed. But for your own use I say go for it.

Anyway I like your design looks nice. One idea may to be make it so the cuts don't meet in the center, so the incoming water is forced faster down into each cut.

Just my 2-Celsius

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if they don't meet in the center, it will take longer for the heat to radiate to the water.

got the US units drawing done slight revisions, and it's 2d



this will be milled into a .29" thick block of copper, the base being .04" thick.

final version as of now. I am sending this to the machinist to get an estimate.



EDIT:
Some eye candy for you all

This is a very nice design and I think it will work well.

Well, just wanted to ask if I could use your design, since I do mill my own block.

I have not made a 3 barb one before so, it will be different and exciting for me to do this.

no prob, that's why I posted the detailed specs feel free to use it, just please give me credit when you show it off

I like it and all, but for that block, .04" base is way too thin. try something closer to .0625-.1



Also, you want to make the block as least long as possible, I would make it closer to 3inches long, because on some motherboards(8k3a) it would run into the nb block or heatsink if your not careful.

Jon

thanks, I'll make the base .0625" and lop off .35" in length when I call them.

Good block.

How much does the milling cost? With the added surface area in the center and w/o?

I've been thinking about this for a long time now.

I have been a machinist for 15 years now. While your block is by no means a difficult project, it will not be a cheap one. My guess off the top of my head would be $75~$100 complete, including material. One thing to consider is to check the price on making 2 or 3 of them, as many have said, most of your time is spent on programming & setup. This is what kills you one "one of a kind" type stuff. even check the prices on making 1 out of alum & the other out of copper, same program except for the speeds & feeds.

Now if you were making 1000 of them, the price would drop to around $10/part.

Now then, I am fortunate enough to work for a place that really does not mind if I do my own home projects after hours. Here is a pic of my first attempt.



By the time I set everything up & had the programming done & cut 2 blocks, I was into it about 2 hours. ( with the 2 caps also, not in the picture ) I think your design is solid & I just might steal some parts of it in the future. I was thinking of something along the same lines except I was going to have 1 3/8 inlet over the center & 2 1/4 outlets. this would help make it more compact & would not degrade the flow any. Bout the only problem would be the need to buy 2 different sizes of hose & a Y fitting....or, instead of the Y fitting I was thinking of making a simple manifold.

go look in the classifieds if you have the ability to do so everyone. if you are interested in having one after I get a quote. I'll get a link to the classifieds post in a sec.

EDIT:

http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=1684598#post1684598

this is the link to the classifieds post.

Sorry you must have at least 100 posts to view threads in this forum.

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oh well. What was the final quote on the price? If you would like, I could have my shop give you one also, all you really need to send is the solid model. parasold X_T format or .SAT format is perfered. If not that, an iges file will work fine.

Sorry you must have at least 100 posts to view threads in this forum.

*sighs*

LittlePiggie said:

go look in the classifieds if you have the ability to do so everyone. if you are interested in having one after I get a quote. I'll get a link to the classifieds post in a sec.

EDIT:

http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=1684598#post1684598

this is the link to the classifieds post.

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The link's not working for me either, and I have well over 100 posts.