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The Newbie's Guide to Overclocking.

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i vote to hold off on the sticky. let everyone who wants to reply come in and do so than when it's known by all the regulars a mod or admin can trim out alot of the "good job" posts and keep the informative ones than sticky it.

BTW great job both of you. it's almost like a text book the way the information is presented. i found a few grammar issues but considering the value of the information it can slide.

i don't get the long spoke better tire thing. maybe it means you should elaborate more or break techy peices down a bit better.

all in all great job to both of you and i hopeyou get a sticky when the dust settles.
 
Emerican chaos, feel free to post grammar errors, it will help the posts to read more clearly if they are fixed. :)
 
im gonna try to get that ducting guid up by tonight. i already have the pics taken, so ill just post the link when im done with it in case you might want to use it in the cooling part.
 
altec said:
Emerican chaos, feel free to post grammar errors, it will help the posts to read more clearly if they are fixed. :)

If you or others find out errors (grammatical, typing, technical, ...), please feel free to point out.
 
this isnt a biggie, but this could be corrected a little. just inor grammer thing.

I have seen many newbie's asking for assistance in their first overclocking adventure, and I thought that it would be nice to have a guide for them to be able to visit, so they can figure all of this stuff out. If you see anything wrong, or mistyped let me know and I will be sure to fix it.
"that" could just be removed and it would flow a little better.

wait, is this even the guide?
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one more thing that would maybe make it look better. subsections in there such as xxxxxxx: rest of guide
the title or the xxxxxx could be highlighted in red or green or something.

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4th paragraph down
One thing to note: The motherboard and the CPU are generally the most important things in the system. You do not want to skimp on these items.

you might want to add ram or psu
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cooling paragraph
The stock AMD heatsink, as many people here on the forums say is nothing better than a paperwieght.

wipe out the "e" and make 2 words, "paper-weight" im not sure if it is hyphonatated or not.

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couple sentences down in cooling paragraph
I would recoment looking into the Thermalright heatsinks. In my opinion the SK-7, the SLK800, and the SLK900 are all doing the best for the ammount of money they cost.

did you mean recommend? or if it is, re-comment would be the correct spelling
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The Thermaltake Smart Fan 2 also offers more static pressure than the Vantec Tornado which make it easier for the fan to push air through tighly-finned heatsinks like the Thermalright SLK series heatsinks.

tightly
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Another thing tp look at is the air movement inside you case.

"Another thing to look at is the air movement inside your case"
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middle of 7th paragraph down

There are other methods to use different multipliers for your CPU and require no modding to the chip itself.

im not sure if there is anything gramatically wrong, but that is one of those things you have to read over twice.
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well, these are all really minor and might not be worth your time, i just thought id add them anyways. i only read really thourogh about up to my last correction, so anyone else proof reading might want to focus harder on past where i left off.

good job everone on this guide!!! :thup:
 
here''s what i have for altec's first post. you can just add it in or edit to where you see fit. you guys made these i'm just critiquing.

If noise is not an issue, the Vantec Tornado is the highest CFM fan in the 80mm range, but is very very loud (It almost sounds like a jet engine taking off inside your case).

Another thing to look at is the air movement inside you case. You will want to use up all of the available bays that accomodate fans so that you will have a good cool ambient temp inside your case. Also remember that you should have more air coming into your case than leaving. This is called positive airflow and it will decrease the ammount of dust that builds up inside the case. Dust tends to build up in the places that you do not want it to, and can cause the temperatures inside the case to rise slowly. I tend to keep 5 fans in my case, 3 intake and 2 exhaust. The two intake fans are moving about 68CFM of air and the two exhaust are moving in the loe 30CFM range.

in your first cooling paragraph you begin talking about a seperate cooling idea in the same paragraph. you should split it into another paragraph like so.

also, i thought negative pressure was better because it eliminates any hot spots in the case.

"One rule of thumb to remember when overclocking: Generally a higher FSB with a lower multiplier will give you better overall system performance than a lower FSB and a higher multiplier. This is generally the case because the faster that your FSB is, the faster the CPU can "talk" to the North Bridge, which then "talks" quicker to the memory. Even if you are loosing a few overall Mhz in your overclock to attain a higher FSB speed, it is generally worth it. Make sure to keep your PCI bus in spec though if you are running a motherboard that does not supply a PCI lock...nothing will console you if you end up corrupting data on your hard drive for those last couple Mhz on your FSB. "

a lower multi and higher FSB are better for things like gaming or things that will take alot of memory bandwidth. for pure computational power a higher multi would be better. with this kind of overclocking where your goal is to have the highest memory bandwidth possible the method of overclocking would be to leave the multiplier alone and ramp up the FSB until you hit a wall. once you hit a wall you know where the limits of your system are and can lower the multiplier and up the FSB to compensate for the multiplier drop. also you can overclock the processor without overclocking the memory by only changing the multiplier. this is much harder to do though because the clock speed increments jump in the value of your FSB where chaning the FSB will mean changing the clock speed in increments of the multiplier's value. EG you have a 1Ghz machine running 10x100. changing the multi to 11= currentclockspeed + FSBvalue or 1000+100. raising the FSB to 101= currentclockspeed + multipliervalue or 1000+10
 
Thanks modena a.k.a. xxxelcelsiorxxx for the grammar and spelling tips.

emericanchaos the more positive pressure you have, the more air is moving into the case, and therefore you will have less hot spots. Also with the positive air pressure there will be less dust buildup due to the quick-moving air.
 
altec said:
Thanks modena a.k.a. xxxelcelsiorxxx for the grammar and spelling tips.

emericanchaos the more positive pressure you have, the more air is moving into the case, and therefore you will have less hot spots. Also with the positive air pressure there will be less dust buildup due to the quick-moving air.

Its the oppsite im pretty sure.

If you have more air going out (negitive) there will be less dust build up.
 
I fixed the areas that you guys pointed out, and I will do some more research into the positive vs. negative air pressure issue, and let you guys know what I find.
 
I think the debate of positive or negative air pressure in computer case would not end easily. I suggest to leave it open without putting an opinion in this overclock guide. If you go deep into the matter, there is really not much practical disagreement, just a matter of terms, ....

Originally posted by hitechjb1 (05-21-2003 12:44 AM)

I think there is really NO positive pressure buildup or negative pressure buildup at steady state, just continuous air flow from intakes to exhausts based on the principle of conservation of mass for fluid flow at steady state.

1. For posiitve fan intakes (instead of calling positive pressure):

SUM CFM_intakeFan = SUM CFM_exhaustFan + airflow_exhaust_holes_gaps

2. For positive fan exhausts (instead of calling negative pressure):

SUM CFM_intakeFan + airflow_intake_holes_gaps = SUM CFM_exhaustFan

3. For balance intakes and exhausts:

SUM CFM_intakeFan = SUM CFM_exhaustFan


This is an interesting thread to read, regardless of "positive" or "negative air pressure". It contains some physics about fluid flow, fan CFM and pressure, ... (in page 2-3).
Negative or positive pressure in case air flow?
 
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One of the articles on the main page says that the reason that positive ait r pressure keeps out more dust is the fact that with negative aire pressure, all of the holes and cracks in the case act as a vaccum and suck dust in. It also says that he tested his system with a duct and negative air pressure and got some pretty good results. If you want to check the article out, here it is:http://www.overclockers.com/tips824/

I am just going to eliminate the statement from the guide, because it doesn't seem to make that much of a difference, but I have always heard that positive air pressure = less dust and less hot spots.
 
altec said:
I am just going to eliminate the statement from the guide, because it doesn't seem to make that much of a difference, but I have always heard that positive air pressure = less dust and less hot spots.

good call. seems to always be a matter of debate. i don't really folllow either theory. a 120mm in the side panel above the CPU a 40CFM fan on the slk 800 and a 92mm low speed exhaust on the top panel and i'm good.
 
Well guys it doesn't look like this thread has sticky material. I have Pm'd both Mr. B and Sickboy, and haven't really gotten a response from them. Oh well. Help me keep it on top so that it is acessable for the newbies without the sticky status. Thanks ;).
 
When I did my burn in I used a voltage of 1.9v, because my CPU is a DLT3C version which designates it as 1.5v stock (about a 78% increase in voltage).

how did you get 78%? a 100% increase would be 3.0 (1.5 +1.5)

a 78% might be in the mid to high 2's. that wouldnt be too good for a chip.
 
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