FluidXP got response

mklt said:

You make the fluid out to be much less effective than water but if you look at the w/cm-K vs. cal/sec-cm-c you'll see a more accurate comparison of the fluids performance. .00122 cal/sec-cm-c comes out to approximately .00510448 w/cm-k.

.00510448/.0055 = . 928

So in essence the % of effectiveness to water is actually 92.8% which we all know is better than the aforementioned advertised 84.5%. Maybe they need to recheck some calculations.

Regards,
mklt
engineering mathematician extraordinar`

Click to expand...

I just realized that it was cal/sec-cm-c. It's not to far under h20 then and isn't all that bad - not the best but not bad at all.

Cool. Thanks for all the info.

hmm might want to post a linky to the review on adrinaline vault...thats a gamer site and has some hardware reviews, but I be dern if I could find anything about this stuff there

Yeah, it's there under hardware review then look for the review of Integrity PC extreme gaming system. www.avault.com

Try this link:

http://www.avault.com/hardware/getreview.asp review=intxtreme

I believe you'll find the fluid test on page 15 or 16 I forget.

Regards,
Mike

found a good review over here. seems like a reputable joint .

rich

Let's say I purchase this stuff. If I ever need to replace anything,can I just drain the remaining FluidXP in my system, fix whatever I need to do, and then reuse the same FluidXP I had from the original setup? If i need to buy new liquid, then this costs way too much. But if it can be reused again, then it might be worth it.

You can drain the system and reuse the fluid. It is very robust and last quite a long time. The self life on the stuff is like 5 years. I like the stuff. It's a lot safe than waterwetter and distilled water due to the fact water wetter has such a high level of alkaline (Acid) in it. It's the stuff that used in alkaline batteries. Very conductive. Yeah you can reuse it. Drain, save and reuse.

To MKLT: Lets say I purchase 32 ounces of it, and it isn't enough for a res, 6 feet of 1/2inch tubing, a dual heatercore, and 2 blocks, do you know how much it will change by adding like 2 cups of distilled water to it?

Also, I noticed in the review in avault that UV additive was added to the FluidXP. Does this affect the conductivity at all?

Hey Quicksilver,

As the formula was posted on Overclockers I would say adding 2 cups of pure distilled water would make a big difference in the formula because you're basically cutting the the effective amount of Glycerin, probably a pump lubricant, and the Glycol in half. Now I would say that this is not all bad because the Glycerin and Glycol are both long chain polymers which gives them the ability to be very pervasive throughout the fluid much like oil in water. You will loose some of the wanted lubrication and viscosity (Make it thinner) but I don't think you'll loose any thermal dynamic properties. You'll retain the non-conductivity level of safety by using pure distilled water. I wouldn't add anything like Water Wetter thinking that it would improve thermal conductivity because the amount of alkaline in water wetter acts just like an alkaline battery. It throws the electrical conductivity right through the roof and is a really dangerous practice not to mention it has some really bad effects on some glues and synthetic rubbers.

Since this fluid is relatively expensive, I think using an additional 2 cups of distilled water would be OK in lieu of pufchasing an additional 32oz's. I hope this information has helped some.

Best regards,
MKLT

In my test of FluidXP, adding about 30% filtered water lowered temps a couple of degrees.

I wouldn't use just filtered water. I would make sure it was distilled. There is a big difference. Tap water is at about 250-275 microSiemens/cm were pure distilled water (Lab grade) is around 1-10 microsiemens/cm. Since tap water can short most systems you want to keep the microSiemens/cm down as much as possible.

Best regards,
MKLT

Wow. Thanks alot for the info mklt. I live in Irvine and the product is in Riverside CA so I can just pick it up. However, it seems the best value is the gallon for 100 dollars, although quite expensive. I think I'll just go ahead and purchase the gallon, and the help some people out in classifieds at other forums by not having to spend such a big amount. (since I can't post here cuz I don't have a hundred posts).

Quicksilver,

As they say in the Lady's Man, "That's Cool."

I think the gallon is a better deal to tell you the truth. Plus you can turn around and sell to friends or something.

Great stuff thou. I'm using it.

Best regards,
mklt

Last question. Would adding dye affect it negatively at all? Assuming its purpose is for it tobe non reactive with electrical compnents, and maybe for it to still be anti-corrosive also. Also, thanks again for you immediate responses.

it would appear that this stuff isn't very good at sub-ambient temps

how viscious does it get at 0 deg C?

Sub Ambient and dye questions

Quicksilver,
Adding a dye is usually not a problem if used sparingly. The dyes on the market are usually used in radiator leak detection products and they use quite a bit because the size of the system. As you know you really dont need a lot to get a desire effect of glow from your system so use it sparingly and you'll still get the neon effect.

snowwie,
The viscosity is 4.37 centiStokes @ 20C and 2.50 centiStokes at 40C so yes the viscosity does increase as it cools but since the fluid freezes at -12C your fluid should flow even if you are running it threw a chiller. As it warms up by the use in the computer the viscosity will decrease even if it goes threw a chiller because the heat will be removed but the viscosity needs a little time to, "Thicken up."

Best to all. mklt

I asked this in another thread, but maybe you can answer it, mklt. What do they mean when they say "Robust: Not prone to mechanical shearing (Pumping)" ?

hmmm...specs for it dont look bad but several of the variants of 3M Fluorinert match it or beat it.

for example, 3M FC-72: pour point down to -90°C, excellent low temperature viscosity, high dielectric constant (will not damage electronic equipment - nonconductive), chemically stable, compatible with sensitive materials, nonflammable and practically non-toxic.

or FC-77 - about the same as above with a wider temp range (-110 to 97C), dielectric, non-toxic, etc.
FC-77 also conforms to milspec: Military Standard 883-1011.
I can't count the number of times having a coolant that wasn't up to milspec has caused me OCing problems...

Mechanical Shearing ...Plus

Swampthing,

Mechanical shearing is when a pump actually will damage fluids. An example of this is many of the original heart pumps would be usually be some sort of spinning pump like a turbin pump but they would cause the red blood cells to actually bust. that's why they had to go to something like the Jarvic 7 heart pump. It put by bladder flexing. Some chemical fluids or products will rupture and cause a foaming effect i.e. margarine. Chemical bonds are being disturbed and broken. That's all mechanical shearing is.

Oh, 3M Fluorinert was developed many years ago for the Cray "super" computer systems. Those system were totally emersed systems. yeah, it's good stuff but it is really, really expensive. It seems a lot of people are talking about expense. Well, like I said before cool put what you want in your system I'm just looking at the big picture down the road when the big boys start playing the game like the IBMs, Apples etc. and they start using stuff like Fluid XP. We all know that the big boys are going to liquid cooling because the CPU's are getting so hot.

I'd like to throw out a question: If Fluid Xp has shown to be of high quality of performance and safety what would people, like yourselves, be willing to pay? 32oz being a quarter of a gallon. What size would be worth say 50 bucks?

I think half a gallon is worth 50 dollars to me. I understand the principle in offeringa full gallon for 100 and halk at 75, it's a marketing strategy to help reduce costs. However, people are gonna need more than 32 oz. for their setup since any Fluid can have no warranty applied with it. Think about it. Let's say you make an accident filling and bleeding for a leak test (which is pretty common, you don't exactly get things perfect until after the leak test). All the FluidXP wasted cannot be retrieved back. I think it is always good to be consumer-minded and to offer consumers "enough" rather than the barely enough.