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Planned Prescott H2O setup...

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RWHGadianton

New Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2004
Currently, I am in planning stages for a Prescott system. The system will consist of the following:

P4 "Prescott" 3.0E
Abit IC7-Max3
Either Kingston PC3700 2x512 or Geil PC4400 2x512 (Still deciding due to price)
DangerDen RBX Waterblock
Thermochill HE120.3 Radiator
DangerDen DD12V-D4 Pump
5.25 Quad Bay Reservoir
All 1/2" Brass Barbs with Plumber's Goop
Tygon Tubing

Water Ratio:
75% Distilled/25% Zerex Super Protector plus Waterchill Anti-Algae formula and a couple drops of UV Dye.

Cooling of Radiator is to be provided by 6 120mm 69 CFM fans in push/pull config, and all this placed inside a U2-UFO Black Powder Original Case by Mountainmods.com.

I plan to OC as far as I can up to 4Ghz.

How do you think that would cool the system?
Would you change anything?

This is my first watercooling system. I've done a bunch of research over the last few weeks and am looking for opinions.
 
sounds good, but zerex super protector will stain your tygon tubes. i would reccomend looking for something different
 
From what I understand, Super Coolant stains and Super Protector is clear. Am I wrong on this?
 
super protector is clear, but it still made my tygon a faint yellowish color. it starts out looking real nice, but after a few weeks i was dissapointed.
 
What is your suggestion for replacing it?

Here is what I'm after...

I want great performance, but the visible color should be green or clear. I don't like the pink look of WW or the Purple Ice look in purple. And from what I understand Glycol based products aren't good for Watercooling.
 
im not sure, i was looking for clear. what have you heard about regular green antifreeze? also, i think your ratio could be smaller. like 85/15 or less
 
I heard regular green antifreeze is glycol based and reduces the thermazl transfer capacity of the water. If I HAD to use it, I would probably use a 90/10 or 95/5 ratio. Just enough to keep corrosion and algae away. and then I wouldn't need the Waterchill Anti-Algae Formula.

I read somewhere that antifreeze makes the water more viscous too. I would prolly want a tad bit of detergent in there to counter that. Probably a drop or two of antibacterial soap.
 
good luck with stopping the mosfets melting off LOL.

presswanks dont look to be that great, they themself arnt that hot but they stress mobos far too much, if u really wanna chance research the issues they give atm and work some ways around it like some mad mosfet cooling etc, otherwise id prepare urself for a huge dissapointment

$$$ + crap result = %~!""*
 
Considering that the IC7Max3 Motherboard comes with active cooling for the MOSFETS, I was just going to add some Arctic Silver 5 to the MOSFET Heatsinks and let the fan do the rest. Abit rates the board up to 300FSB.

3.0E has 15x multiplier

15x300FSB = 4.5 Ghz

I just want to break 4.0, I know 4.5 is unrealistic for water.
 
Well you selected the same WB I bought for my upcoming prescott 2.8E system.

everything else I chose is a bit off the wall but looks like you have a good setup to keep that prescott cool.

The mosfets may get a bit toasty but as you said the Abit cooling setup should handle that, though I wonder just how effective such a small fan will actually be in practice.
 
RWHGadianton said:
I heard regular green antifreeze is glycol based and reduces the thermazl transfer capacity of the water. If I HAD to use it, I would probably use a 90/10 or 95/5 ratio. Just enough to keep corrosion and algae away. and then I wouldn't need the Waterchill Anti-Algae Formula.

I read somewhere that antifreeze makes the water more viscous too. I would prolly want a tad bit of detergent in there to counter that. Probably a drop or two of antibacterial soap.

the impact on waters thermal properties when antifreeze is added is minimal, and IMO is somewhat insignificiant when using a 90/10 ratio or even a little hight to 85/15. In fact, you can try running ur setup with regular water and then changing to 90/10 and you will probably not see a 1c difference. As for the viscosity of the solution, again, adding only 10% will not make a significiant change. Using more then that, like 50/50 right from the bottle will decrease flow, which will impact preformance. See that you have a all copper or possibly a copper/brass setup, if u decide to go the brass top RBX, you should need more then 10%, besides that coolant should take care of any algae or bacteria growth.
 
RWH: Might want to talk to Nikhsub1 about this. He's got a VERY similar config. He knows his stuff about cooling, so I'd say shoot him a PM or something, he'd be a valuable resource to you.

Other than that, I'd say ditch the Quad bay reservoir, get a T-line, and instead of the DangerDen D4 Pump (laing d4), get a MCP600 Rev. 2. I was going to buy it too, but I heard cathar's recording of it, and it's NOT quiet.
 
Thanks for the vote of confidence, Arcsylver.
Thanks for the info, Korndog.
I'll consider the Pentosin, MoreGooder.

Fyberwire,

I will try to contact Nikhsub1, but I wanted to comment on some of your comments in more detail. It is not Quad (4-bay) Reservoir The term Quad refers to 4 hose plug-ins. It is only takes one 5.25" bay. I will look into the MCP600 Rev. 2, and am trying to d/l the audio for the DD12-D4 you mentioned now.
 
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