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  1. #1
    Member termin@tor's Avatar
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    What do you think of my parts?

    I'm planning on building a completely water cooled PC by the end of this year. I want to wait out till all the new stuff comes out (S939 for A64, BTX Standard, new graphics cards, PCI-E, etc.) so I am planning on building this machine by the end of this year (hopefully )

    Ok, here are what my parts would most likely be. I know things might change till the end of the year, but I just want to hear some comments from you guys on what I should get and should be looking at. I don't have water blocks added to this setup because I simply don't know what kind will be needed for the newer graphics cards and motherboards.
    Here we go:

    -Swiftech MCP600 12V DC pump- $79.95
    (http://store.pcpowerzone.com/swmc12vdcpu.html)

    -Typhoon-Quad- $29.95
    Drive Bay Reservoir (it's nice to use up those CD drive bays that just sit there, unused gathering dust It would be sweet to have 2 optical drives, fan controller and watercooling there. Looks nice too!)
    (http://store.pcpowerzone.com/drbaymocore.html)

    -Danger Den Black Ice Xtreme Radiator- $65
    (http://store.pcpowerzone.com/blackicextreme.html)

    -10 feet (how much would be enough for a full-tower case, radiator, pump, tank, cpu, gpu, and chipset water blocks?) of 1/2" Tygon R-3603 Tubing- it's 29 bucks for 10 feet!!
    (http://store.pcpowerzone.com/1tyrtu.html)

    -10x Adjustable Plastic Hose Clamp- $7.50 for 10
    (http://store.pcpowerzone.com/adplashoscla.html)

    -Red Line WaterWetter- $4.99
    (http://store.pcpowerzone.com/redlinwat.html)

    -Enermax Adjustable Speed 120mm Cooling fan, Model "UC-12FAB-B" -RETAIL- $12.05
    (http://secure.newegg.com/app/shoppin...tem=11-999-012)

    -Mini-Cool shroud for Black Ice Radiators- $9.99
    (http://www.cooltechnica.com/Merchant...Coolshroud-BLK)


    Total Co$t: $238.43

    This leaves a good 100 bucks for water blocks.

    Any comments, suggestions, or help would be greatly appreciated.
    Last edited by termin@tor; 04-14-04 at 07:35 PM.
    E8400 @ 3.6GHz
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  2. #2
    Computational Oncologist / Biomathematician / Moderator on Vacation, Ph.D.
    macklin01's Avatar
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  3. #3
    Member termin@tor's Avatar
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    Thank you, but can you please delete the the other thread because I didn't see you moved it and I posted it again. Thanks and sorry for bothering you.

    Now that we're back to business, does anyone have any suggestions about the parts?
    Last edited by termin@tor; 04-14-04 at 08:00 PM.
    E8400 @ 3.6GHz
    Asus P5Q Pro mobo
    Corsair Dominator 4GB PC2-8500
    Sapphire HD 4850 @ 650/1075
    2x320GB Samsung RAID 0
    Audigy 2 ZS
    Enzotech Xtreme-X CPU cooler
    Corsair 650TX Power Supply

  4. #4
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    Feb 2004
    first of all thats a lot of money to spend lol
    Pump is good. i would have bought that if i had the money.

    For the reservoir, you can always build one or use a T-line, if you don't want to, then that quad is fine.

    For the radiator, i would go with a heatercore. By seeing that you want a BIX, guessin that you don't have much space, so i would go with the popular chevette heatercore about 20bucks.

    Tubing is a bit expensive. get your tubes at www.mcmaster.com they have tygon and the similar clearflex60 for a lot cheaper. and they also have metal worm clamps there too

    water wetter is good, but the smell is bad. people have been getting good results with the zerex. if you don't want clouding, get the lowtox(picture of a dog on the antifreeze bottle) i think prestone makes it. fan is a good choice, i am using that too. shroud is good, unless you can make one yourself.

    hope this helps. let me know if you need more help.

  5. #5
    Powder Junkie Moderator

    Voodoo Rufus's Avatar
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    I agree with brisk.

    Don't bother with a res. I just went from a homebuilt res to a T line and I ain't going back.

    WW stinks but once it's in your rig it won't matter anyway once it's all sealed up.

    If you have the room, go for a heater core. If not, BIXs work quite nicely too.
    "I am a leaf on the wind, watch how I soar!"

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  6. #6
    Member Silent Buddha's Avatar
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    Yeah, I agree with what they said. BIX is over-priced and you shouldn't get it unless you really don't have space for anything else. A Chevette core from an auto-parts store will come in at $20-$30 (though you will have to make your own shrouds unless you can find someone who will sell some to you). The Dtek JR-120 is not much bigger than a BIX and sells for $36 off the Dtek site. Dtek also sells shrouds for the JR-120.

    As for tubing, get some ClearFlex 60 from www.mcmaster.com, it's under Chemical PVC tubing 1/2" ID 3/4" OD. Very cheap, $0.65 per foot.

    Reservoir is not necessary, especially if you don't have space. A T-line will suffice to say the least.

    Last thing, you can get the Swiftech MCP600 for $5 cheaper off CrazyPC (although you might not end up saving anything because of the extra shipping).

  7. #7
    Member termin@tor's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I'm really making up my mind on getting a heater core. I found some reviews that show how much better it is than a radiator... and the BIX is also pretty expensive. If I get a Chevette core, would I have to do something for the fittings? Would just normal adaptors to 1/2" work? Can I find a Chevette heater core that's premade for 1/2" fittings?

    Space isn't a big issue for me. Mounting kind of is. I don't have any tools around the house. So, I think it would be better to put the heater core at the bottom front of the case, sucking air in. The top, where I could fit a lot bigger heater core, is going to be hard to mod. In an Antec SOHO server, I guess I'd have a lot of space, but I'd like to keep modding to a minimum. Of course I would mod If I have to, but why if there is no need.

    What are the advantages of a t-line over a reservoir and vice versa?

    Thanks for that site. I'll get tubing off of there. I think I'm gonna go with tygon. Does anyone know approximately how much tubing I need? Is 10 feet enough?

    And would metal hose clamps be any better than plastic ones? I've heard it's harder to get plastic ones off.

    I think I'm just gonna get WW. The system isn't supposed to have any leaks (hopefully, lol ) so the smell wouldn't be so bad.

    And I prefer getting as much things as I can from one site because the extra shipping kills the purpose of getting a little cheaper things from another site.

    Thanks for the help. Any more ideas are welcome.
    E8400 @ 3.6GHz
    Asus P5Q Pro mobo
    Corsair Dominator 4GB PC2-8500
    Sapphire HD 4850 @ 650/1075
    2x320GB Samsung RAID 0
    Audigy 2 ZS
    Enzotech Xtreme-X CPU cooler
    Corsair 650TX Power Supply

  8. #8
    Powder Junkie Moderator

    Voodoo Rufus's Avatar
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    Danger Den and Dtek sell heater cores with 1/2" barbs pre mounted. Otherwise you could solder your own on or use adapters.

    Tlines to me take about the same time to bleed. There's no real disadvantages or advantages to either. Less tubing runs is one good thing about T lines.

    I highly reccomend metal hose clamps. I use them on all my connections that might leak whether they need them or not.
    "I am a leaf on the wind, watch how I soar!"

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  9. #9
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    10ft of tubing will be enough. i have 7 feet and i have leftovers.
    im using metal worm clamps too and i think they are better, more realiable? get the clamps at www.mcmaster.com along with your tubing. The clamps come in packages of 10, and its like 3-4$.

    also, i have the chevette and i fitted the clearflex60 1/2ID 3/4OD over the chevette pipes without having to cut or do anything. Just boiled the tubes a bit, made it soft then juss pushed the tubes over the pipes. works for me..lol

  10. #10
    Member Cfn Nexus's Avatar
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    one thing about the res. is that its like a giant capacitor for heat, it stores a lot of it, and can help shed heat by itself by spreading it over a larger amount of water and surface area, like around your nice cool tower racks.

  11. #11
    Powder Junkie Moderator

    Voodoo Rufus's Avatar
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    Cfn, that only works if the res is made out of a thermally conductive material like aluminum or copper. The bay reses are acrylic (?) and will not dissipate heat very well.

    Reses make the water take longer to heat up and cool down, while maintaining very nearly the same equilibrium temperature.
    "I am a leaf on the wind, watch how I soar!"

    Serious Gamers Halo Custom Edition
    Green Leaves!

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