- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
- Location
- Virginy
what all do you use to glue it together?
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Acrylic Polycarbonate Plexiglas Lexan, what to use
- Thread starter Bender
- Start date
OP
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2000
- Thread Starter
- #22
Dissolvent cement works great. It bonds the pieces together as if it were a single piece. My local hardware store had it in stock but it can be tricky to find.
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2003
- Location
- Clearwater, FL
some things to remember when working with lexon... if youre using a jigsaw or circular saw to make your rough cuts (especially if the lexon is thick) use high carbon blades or any other hard blade, it dulls blades rather quickly and with a dull blade the saw will tend to jump and you could possibly hurt yourself... and with the cement if you plan on doin more than one mod, after you mix it stick it in the refridgerator, otherwise it will turn yellow
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2004
- Location
- Cheyenne, Wyoming
i have heard liquid nails works well and that is sold many places...
and if just for a window double sided tape like Fushyguru's modded window used works well for just putting a window in... obviously not for a whole case or anything...
the bonus of double sided tape is that if the window scratches or breaks it can be removed and replaced easily... but also i imagine with double sided tape the edges between the case and the window arent held together too well leaving a little unwanted space between the two... if it were me i would just do it right the first time and use liquid nails appropriately and well around the edges...
do it right the first time....
and if just for a window double sided tape like Fushyguru's modded window used works well for just putting a window in... obviously not for a whole case or anything...
the bonus of double sided tape is that if the window scratches or breaks it can be removed and replaced easily... but also i imagine with double sided tape the edges between the case and the window arent held together too well leaving a little unwanted space between the two... if it were me i would just do it right the first time and use liquid nails appropriately and well around the edges...
do it right the first time....
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2002
- Location
- Nashville, TN
Acrylic really isn't that bad and it's actually a lot stiffer than polycarbonate. you can get scratch resistant pc, but it's EXPENSIVE. I think I was quoted about $70 for a sheet of that compared to around $30 for regular PC and $20 someodd for acrylic.
Acrylic also has better light piping qualities. That is, it will pick up light and carry it within itself to the edge (like fiber optics) making the edge light up. If that's a quality you desire, it's something else to consider.
Myself, I'm leaning more towards acrylic because I DO want that higher optical quality.
Acrylic also has better light piping qualities. That is, it will pick up light and carry it within itself to the edge (like fiber optics) making the edge light up. If that's a quality you desire, it's something else to consider.
Myself, I'm leaning more towards acrylic because I DO want that higher optical quality.
- Joined
- Feb 29, 2004
- Location
- Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
what to glue it together?
i have a bottle of something called "dichloromethane" or "methylene cloride" lyring around here somewhere. it's great stuff. really thin... about 10 times thinner than water, it melts the plexi along the edges to be bonded into a nearly invisible seam. be careful though.. it's nasty stuff for the fumes and it eats anything plastic in a heatbeat. i use a glass and steel syringe to apply the liquid to the seam.
*assemble it, tape it together, hold it tight, put a few SMALL drops in one corner, then turn the project so the liquid runs down the seam*
ding plexi's done.
i don't know how it works for lexan though.
i have a bottle of something called "dichloromethane" or "methylene cloride" lyring around here somewhere. it's great stuff. really thin... about 10 times thinner than water, it melts the plexi along the edges to be bonded into a nearly invisible seam. be careful though.. it's nasty stuff for the fumes and it eats anything plastic in a heatbeat. i use a glass and steel syringe to apply the liquid to the seam.
*assemble it, tape it together, hold it tight, put a few SMALL drops in one corner, then turn the project so the liquid runs down the seam*
ding plexi's done.
i don't know how it works for lexan though.
Since I haven't seen it mentioned yet, I thought I would add this to the list of links as well. I figured there might be some of you who are unaware of this site.
http://www.tapplastics.com
http://www.tapplastics.com
Does anyone know or is anyone able to suggest a way to find out (other than scratching it) what material antec uses for the windows in my case (antec superLANboy)? I've been thinking about putting an intake fanhole in the window once i get hold of a holesaw, but it seems like if it's acyrlic it's likely to mealt or crack and probably not worth it.
edit:
I've emailed antec support asking directly, I'll post if and when i get a reply if anyone is interested
edit:
I've emailed antec support asking directly, I'll post if and when i get a reply if anyone is interested
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2002
- Location
- Enfield CT
The ArchTaib said:
Where can this stuff be found? I have google'd for it, but only found numerous health warnings about it lol. I don't care about health, I want my plexi stuck together dammit! J/k but seriously, is there a place where it can be purchased? Thanks
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2004
- Location
- Bay Area, California
Is there any reason I should go for the 1/4" polycarbonate instead of the .188" one?
1/4" seems VERY thick to me and I have been looking at some thicknesses of pre-installed windows from my friends' computers, and they are all about 1/8" thick acrylic. With polycarbonate being stronger than acrylic, it seems to me .188" should be enough for anything minus deep etching.
1/4" seems VERY thick to me and I have been looking at some thicknesses of pre-installed windows from my friends' computers, and they are all about 1/8" thick acrylic. With polycarbonate being stronger than acrylic, it seems to me .188" should be enough for anything minus deep etching.
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
- Location
- Asteroid B-612
1/4" or 3/8" are ideal for case construction. If you're just doing a window, 1/8" will be fine.klath said:
- Joined
- May 23, 2004
- Location
- San Jose, CA
noob question - why arent you guys afraid of the electrostatic build up on acrylic and polycarbonate
- Joined
- May 23, 2001
- Location
- Asteroid B-612
With plastics the build-up isn't strong enough to damage anything. And besides, if you're mounting a PSU in the case or wiring the parts for electricity, all of the static will be grounded.ivanchu02 said:
Static only causes damage when it arcs onto sensitive areas or pushes too much current through circuits.
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2004
- Location
- Rocky Mountian High
Also, scratches in lexan can be buffed out with the proper materials. Some of the suppliers on the internet also offer the necessary materials to do it.
Thank you Bender! AND HELP (All) with questions!
I plan to redo my kitchen counters with sliced agate. My plan is to take the wood counter-top completely off and to place Polycarbonate as the base before putting the agate on top.
Here are questions:
1) Will polycarbonate sag under the weight of the stones?
2) What thickness of polycarbonate is recommended for that purpose?
3) Will polyurethane adhere to polycarbonate?
4) Is the heat-resistance such that the counter can withstand under-lighting?
4) Would you suggest a glass adhesive between the polycarbonate and the stones?
THANK YOU for any and all help!
I plan to redo my kitchen counters with sliced agate. My plan is to take the wood counter-top completely off and to place Polycarbonate as the base before putting the agate on top.
Here are questions:
1) Will polycarbonate sag under the weight of the stones?
2) What thickness of polycarbonate is recommended for that purpose?
3) Will polyurethane adhere to polycarbonate?
4) Is the heat-resistance such that the counter can withstand under-lighting?
4) Would you suggest a glass adhesive between the polycarbonate and the stones?
THANK YOU for any and all help!
KeithG3255
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2016
Another quick and dirty way to determine the material is take some pliers at the edge of a corner and bend it. Acrylic will snap or crack, polycarbonate will bend and will not typically crack in room temperature. For bending and screw retention without cracking, I prefer polycarbonate. I get mine from Kmac. http://kmac-distribution.com/Plastics/polycarbonate-sheet-general-purpose.htm
Many sizes and down to a square foot. So I don't have to buy alot. Home depot and the likes, typically only carry a few thickness and size options.
Many sizes and down to a square foot. So I don't have to buy alot. Home depot and the likes, typically only carry a few thickness and size options.
