- Joined
- Mar 27, 2004
- Location
- Pittsburgh Pennsylvania
Building your own Bong (for evaporative cooling purposes on a computer)
Cheap!
Powerful!
Low-Maintenance!
Materials needed:
5' section of 4" PVC Pipe
1 Sanitary Wyee fitting
10' of 1/2" tubing (optional ATM)
Showerhead
1/2" fitting to match showerhead thread
1/8" plywood or popsicle sticks or hard wood
PVC glue
Krylon Fusion Vhynl paint (I chose blue, completley optional )
1. Take your 5' section and cut off roughly an 8" section of it. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/8cut.jpg
2. PVC glue (as per instructions on can), this piece into your Wyee fitting and let dry (1/2 hour) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/wyee.jpg
3. Glue on the end cap (as per instructions on can), onto the 8" section http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/endglue.jpg
4. Drill a 1/2" fitting sized hole into the bottom section of the 8" piece of connection pipe at the bottom. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/holedriller.jpg
5. Take a pair of vice grips, grab the fitting, and screw it into the 1/2" hole you drilled. Strength (or a set of thread cutting tools) can help a lot here. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/barbin.jpg
6. Liberally apply PVC glue around the fitting to seal the PVC against it.
(no picture here)
7. cut another 8" section out of your remaining piece of the 5' pipe, leaving you with a 3'8" section of it http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/8cut2.jpg
8. Glue this piece into the Y part of the Wyee fitting you glued the end cap/extension part to. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/wyee2.jpg
9. Create this wooden piece to hold the showerhead in place on top of the pipe. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/woodenpiece.jpg
take the showerhead and 1/2" fitting for it, and sandwich the wood between them when you screw them together.
10. Take the remaining piece of PVC pipe not glued to anything and cut these L-shaped marks into it (no dimensions provided) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/cuts.jpg
Make two of these, on opposide sides of the pipe, facing opposite directions. When the wooden piece is inserted and twisted, it will lock into place.
11. take the final piece of L-cut PVC pipe and PVC glue it into place on the only remaining Wyee connection. this is the bong. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/bongcomplete.jpg
There you go
Im pretty sure a device could be made to lash it to a pole (I tied mine to the side of my desk with shoe laces, just make sure it's nearly straight up and down, you can tell by the loudness of the sound of the water hitting the bottom in the tank), or you could make a big heavy wooden block about the size of the end cap and glue it in place.
If you were to use this in a computer, you would need a water pump with at least a 6' head (height the pump can pump up to) and a decent CPU waterblock. The way the watercooling loop would go is as follows:
Bong-->Pump inlet-->Filter-->CPU waterblock-->Bong.
[Geeky theory explanation]
The theory behind bongs is one of evaporation. Making a substance change state requires immense energy, and what better source than a CPU putting out perhaps 100 watts of heat? This heats up the water and allows it to evaporate faster (like a puddle on a sunny day). The showerhead and height of the bong allow the water to be broken up into smaller droplets, and be cooled faster. The cooled water then drops down into the reservior at the bottom of the bong, where it's cycled along the loop again.
Since the cooling is so efficent, it isn't unreasonable to power 4 or 5 computers off of one bong loop, the pump being the only issue.
[/Geek]
Maintenance: My bong burns off about 8 oz of water a day (about 1/2" of the pipe reservior). A cupfull of water in the morning with a capful of rubbing alcohol (helps keep living things out of the bong) is as far as mintenance goes.
Hope this helps anyone looking to bong cool.
-Additives-
this topic comes up ALL THE TIME, so here's the straight dope:
*The Cheap*
-Rubbing Alcohol
-Hydrogen Peroxide
Both of the additives work very well in keeping living slime out of my bong after a months usage, the only downside was a slight slimy buildup on the side of the bong wall, the tubing got cloudy, but it always does on a count of me using Tap water.
*The Moderatley agitating (to the lungs, depends on sensitivity)
-Bleach
-Bleach Tablets
I've tried both of these additives in my bucket as well as my bong cooler, and they both work marvelously. The Key is not putting too much in though, you want perhaps 1/2 oz per every 16 ounces of water, and even that is overkill.
Make sure you keep a window open though. While it DOES leave a fresh, clean smell in my room, huffing bleach and agitating the smokers in the house doesn't bode well for this additive.
*The Expensive but Ideal
-Humidifier Biocide
This stuff is MADE for evaporation, I would provide some information, but I was always too cheap to buy it, so just assume it works good if you have the means to aquire it.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Improved Design
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/improvedbong.jpg
This design makes use of the misting heads that some have suggested instead of shower heads. Since misting heads are so restrictive, many of them would have to be used to get a half-decent flow, along with a pump with lots of pressure, or two put serially.
So, on with the explanation!
Water enters in through the hot water lines (D) and makes its way to the misting heads (C). The misting heads spray the water into the main chamber and are cooled off by the water being forced in by a moderatley strong blower (A). The Gasket (B) keeps the air/water mixture from leaving through the top (heated anything rises). The cooled droplets are further forced down into the Sponge/Brillo pad (E) and collect on it and form drops which drip down into the main chamber, allowing for a cold water return (F). The Moist air leaves through the Wye Exit (G).
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Improved Design
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(Edit) Here's my bong, completed if anyone'd like to see. (3/25/05)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/DSC00001.jpg
(Edit) Fixed pictures, added additives section (5/23/05)
Cheap!
Powerful!
Low-Maintenance!
Materials needed:
5' section of 4" PVC Pipe
1 Sanitary Wyee fitting
10' of 1/2" tubing (optional ATM)
Showerhead
1/2" fitting to match showerhead thread
1/8" plywood or popsicle sticks or hard wood
PVC glue
Krylon Fusion Vhynl paint (I chose blue, completley optional )
1. Take your 5' section and cut off roughly an 8" section of it. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/8cut.jpg
2. PVC glue (as per instructions on can), this piece into your Wyee fitting and let dry (1/2 hour) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/wyee.jpg
3. Glue on the end cap (as per instructions on can), onto the 8" section http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/endglue.jpg
4. Drill a 1/2" fitting sized hole into the bottom section of the 8" piece of connection pipe at the bottom. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/holedriller.jpg
5. Take a pair of vice grips, grab the fitting, and screw it into the 1/2" hole you drilled. Strength (or a set of thread cutting tools) can help a lot here. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/barbin.jpg
6. Liberally apply PVC glue around the fitting to seal the PVC against it.
(no picture here)
7. cut another 8" section out of your remaining piece of the 5' pipe, leaving you with a 3'8" section of it http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/8cut2.jpg
8. Glue this piece into the Y part of the Wyee fitting you glued the end cap/extension part to. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/wyee2.jpg
9. Create this wooden piece to hold the showerhead in place on top of the pipe. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/woodenpiece.jpg
take the showerhead and 1/2" fitting for it, and sandwich the wood between them when you screw them together.
10. Take the remaining piece of PVC pipe not glued to anything and cut these L-shaped marks into it (no dimensions provided) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/cuts.jpg
Make two of these, on opposide sides of the pipe, facing opposite directions. When the wooden piece is inserted and twisted, it will lock into place.
11. take the final piece of L-cut PVC pipe and PVC glue it into place on the only remaining Wyee connection. this is the bong. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/bongcomplete.jpg
There you go
Im pretty sure a device could be made to lash it to a pole (I tied mine to the side of my desk with shoe laces, just make sure it's nearly straight up and down, you can tell by the loudness of the sound of the water hitting the bottom in the tank), or you could make a big heavy wooden block about the size of the end cap and glue it in place.
If you were to use this in a computer, you would need a water pump with at least a 6' head (height the pump can pump up to) and a decent CPU waterblock. The way the watercooling loop would go is as follows:
Bong-->Pump inlet-->Filter-->CPU waterblock-->Bong.
[Geeky theory explanation]
The theory behind bongs is one of evaporation. Making a substance change state requires immense energy, and what better source than a CPU putting out perhaps 100 watts of heat? This heats up the water and allows it to evaporate faster (like a puddle on a sunny day). The showerhead and height of the bong allow the water to be broken up into smaller droplets, and be cooled faster. The cooled water then drops down into the reservior at the bottom of the bong, where it's cycled along the loop again.
Since the cooling is so efficent, it isn't unreasonable to power 4 or 5 computers off of one bong loop, the pump being the only issue.
[/Geek]
Maintenance: My bong burns off about 8 oz of water a day (about 1/2" of the pipe reservior). A cupfull of water in the morning with a capful of rubbing alcohol (helps keep living things out of the bong) is as far as mintenance goes.
Hope this helps anyone looking to bong cool.
-Additives-
this topic comes up ALL THE TIME, so here's the straight dope:
*The Cheap*
-Rubbing Alcohol
-Hydrogen Peroxide
Both of the additives work very well in keeping living slime out of my bong after a months usage, the only downside was a slight slimy buildup on the side of the bong wall, the tubing got cloudy, but it always does on a count of me using Tap water.
*The Moderatley agitating (to the lungs, depends on sensitivity)
-Bleach
-Bleach Tablets
I've tried both of these additives in my bucket as well as my bong cooler, and they both work marvelously. The Key is not putting too much in though, you want perhaps 1/2 oz per every 16 ounces of water, and even that is overkill.
Make sure you keep a window open though. While it DOES leave a fresh, clean smell in my room, huffing bleach and agitating the smokers in the house doesn't bode well for this additive.
*The Expensive but Ideal
-Humidifier Biocide
This stuff is MADE for evaporation, I would provide some information, but I was always too cheap to buy it, so just assume it works good if you have the means to aquire it.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Improved Design
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/improvedbong.jpg
This design makes use of the misting heads that some have suggested instead of shower heads. Since misting heads are so restrictive, many of them would have to be used to get a half-decent flow, along with a pump with lots of pressure, or two put serially.
So, on with the explanation!
Water enters in through the hot water lines (D) and makes its way to the misting heads (C). The misting heads spray the water into the main chamber and are cooled off by the water being forced in by a moderatley strong blower (A). The Gasket (B) keeps the air/water mixture from leaving through the top (heated anything rises). The cooled droplets are further forced down into the Sponge/Brillo pad (E) and collect on it and form drops which drip down into the main chamber, allowing for a cold water return (F). The Moist air leaves through the Wye Exit (G).
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Improved Design
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(Edit) Here's my bong, completed if anyone'd like to see. (3/25/05)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/Pro*Banshee/Bong/DSC00001.jpg
(Edit) Fixed pictures, added additives section (5/23/05)
Last edited: