Current draw of Peltiers @ 12 V

Melraidin · Feb 2, 2005

Can anyone provide some specific info, either from their own experience or links, of the current draw of various Peltiers (specifically the 226 W one at Danger Den) at 12 V?

I'm just asking since I've been unable to find decent information on this anywhere so far. So if perhaps someone with a Peltier set up could simply measure it for me?

Melraidin · Feb 2, 2005

Best (and only) information I've found now is here:

http://www.directron.com/mcw5002pt.html

The TEC module is provided with "bare wires" to facilitate installation with screw type terminals. We recommend the "Meanwell S320-12" power supply, rated for 25A at 12 Volts, and available here. While it is possible to connect the MCW5002-AT to the computer power-supply, users should be aware that only high-end power-supplies can accomodate the Peltier module 18amps current draw (at 12 volts). Accordingly, users should verify that their power supply features at least a 40 Amps ratings for the +12 volts rail.

Note that this is referring to a 226 W Peltier with nominal ratings of 15.2 V, 24 A.

So if this Peltier would draw 18 A, and I've got an 80 W Peltier as well at 12 V drawing about 6 A, would I be alright running both off my XConnect 500 W PSU (34 A at 12 V)?

Wstinkbait · Feb 2, 2005

Those caculations are close, I draw about 18.9A on the 270 and around 7A on the 80. While the 550 might power the at least one 80 watt pelt it wont power the 270, the 80 and the rest of the PC too. A seperate PSU might tho.

Melraidin · Feb 2, 2005

Good to hear that I'm close! Glad to see a little electronics reading paying off!

Just not sure I understand though. With an 80 W Peltier drawing 7 A and a 226 W drawing 19 A, that puts the total current draw at 26 A, then have to add in the fans and other drives that're pulling 12 V power. I just can't see my other devices drawing 8 A or more, so don't really understand how the whole system could exceed the PSU's rated 34 A at 12 V? Is this 34 A rating for when the 12 V rail is the only one in use?

Wstinkbait · Feb 2, 2005

Oh yea easy, The graphics card, motherboard, drives and devices. And beside that the rated 12 volt load is distributed over many wires and goes to many places. A near 20 amp load on any one leg will melt the PSU wiring and/or board traces. My 226 is connected to its own Meanwell 320 with 12 gauge monster cable and even that gets warm.

Asmodeus · Feb 9, 2005

i'm curious then... i have a enermax EG651P-VE PSU and i'll i'm running on it is my swiftech MCW5002-PT and my other enermax EG651P-VE is running the rest of my PC... so how is it that the swiftech 226watt peltier has 16 or 18 gauge wire on it and it is drawing 18A - 20A all on it's own and the wires aren't melting...? also, i modified the enermax that runs the peltier so that i desoldered all of the molex connectors except the 12v rail and the ATX cable... am i doing something wrong...?

Wstinkbait said:
Oh yea easy, The graphics card, motherboard, drives and devices. And beside that the rated 12 volt load is distributed over many wires and goes to many places. A near 20 amp load on any one leg will melt the PSU wiring and/or board traces. My 226 is connected to its own Meanwell 320 with 12 gauge monster cable and even that gets warm.

Wstinkbait · Feb 9, 2005

The rating of 12 gauge wire is 20 amps, 14 gauge is 15 amps, and 18 about 10 amps. These wires ore overspected by the National electrical code for safety reasons and should be used as a reference only. This is the rating for runs shorter than 50 feet and over that wire size should be increased due to wire resistance. (don't apply here) The pigtails on Tec's are short and have very little resistance as well as a high temp insulation on them. They are the size they are for the purpose of bonding them to the plate. Large TEC's should always be soldered, wire nutted or screwed to a terminal strip. Never use butt splice or Molex connectors. A bad connection can have more resistance than 10 feet of wire.

Asmodeus · Feb 9, 2005

okay... i understand that part, but am i doing anything wrong by desoldering all of the rails except for the ATX connector and the wires that make up the +12v rail...? basically i just have the atx connector and a black and yellow coming out of the power supply to connect to the pelt...

Wstinkbait said:
The rating of 12 gauge wire is 20 amps, 14 gauge is 15 amps, and 18 about 10 amps. These wires ore overspected by the National electrical code for safety reasons and should be used as a reference only. This is the rating for runs shorter than 50 feet and over that wire size should be increased due to wire resistance. (don't apply here) The pigtails on Tec's are short and have very little resistance as well as a high temp insulation on them. They are the size they are for the purpose of bonding them to the plate. Large TEC's should always be soldered, wire nutted or screwed to a terminal strip. Never use butt splice or Molex connectors. A bad connection can have more resistance than 10 feet of wire.

Wstinkbait · Feb 9, 2005

If it's a seperate PSU then cut off all the wires except for the Yellow and black ones (or at least 4 or 5 of them). Cut all of them to the same length and twist the yellow bundle and solder them and same with black ones. If there is a smaller yellow wire attched to one of larger yellow wires on the ATX , include this in the bundle (thats the sense wire)

Asmodeus · Feb 9, 2005

okay, so i leave all of the yellow and black wires alone and cut all of the red wires off or remove them from the PSU... then i need to bundle and twist all of the black ones together and all of the yellow ones together and connect that bundle to the TEC or just pull off a black and a yellow from each respective bundle for the power to the TEC... so what do i do with the rest of the black and yellow wire bundles...?

and i'm not sure what you mean about the part including the ATX connector wire bundle... can you be a little more clear about that part...?

Wstinkbait said:
If it's a seperate PSU then cut off all the wires except for the Yellow and black ones (or at least 4 or 5 of them). Cut all of them to the same length and twist the yellow bundle and solder them and same with black ones. If there is a smaller yellow wire attched to one of larger yellow wires on the ATX , include this in the bundle (thats the sense wire)

Wstinkbait · Feb 9, 2005

Some PSU's have a smaller yellow, red and orange wire that go the 20 pin connector. These are the +12v, +5v and 3.3v sence wires that keep the regulators at the correct voltage. If you cut these off and the PSU won't stay on then short them to another wire of the same color. If the PSU works ok without them then never mind. And yes you will need at least 4 or 5, (more the better) each of the yellow (+12v) and the same amount of black (ground). Twisted and soldered together. Cut off all the rest. Connect the 5 yellow wires to the red pelt wire and connect the 5 black ones to the black pelt wire.

Asmodeus · Feb 9, 2005

okay, i understand taking the yellow bundle and black bundle and connecting them to the respective wires on the pelt... the ATX connector wires haven't been cut, so should i just leave it alone or should i take the smaller yellow wire and attach it to the larger yellow wire bundle...?

right now the ATX connector wires are intact and i have it shorted so i can start it up independently of connecting it to a motherboard...

Wstinkbait said:
Some PSU's have a smaller yellow, red and orange wire that go the 20 pin connector. These are the +12v, +5v and 3.3v sence wires that keep the regulators at the correct voltage. If you cut these off and the PSU won't stay on then short them to another wire of the same color. If the PSU works ok without them then never mind. And yes you will need at least 4 or 5, (more the better) each of the yellow (+12v) and the same amount of black (ground). Twisted and soldered together. Cut off all the rest. Connect the 5 yellow wires to the red pelt wire and connect the 5 black ones to the black pelt wire.

Wstinkbait · Feb 10, 2005

That's right, if there is a smaller yellow wire connected to one of the larger yellow wires at the connector you need to attach that to the bundle. If there is a small red or orange wire just short them to any large wire the same color. And short the green wire to any black wire, (this is the power on wire) or connect a switch to it to turn off and on the psu.

Unless you don't want to cut off the ATX connector then you can just use any 5 yellow and black wires.

Asmodeus · Feb 10, 2005

thanks for the help, i really appreciate it...

Wstinkbait said:
That's right, if there is a smaller yellow wire connected to one of the larger yellow wires at the connector you need to attach that to the bundle. If there is a small red or orange wire just short them to any large wire the same color. And short the green wire to any black wire, (this is the power on wire) or connect a switch to it to turn off and on the psu.

Unless you don't want to cut off the ATX connector then you can just use any 5 yellow and black wires.

Asmodeus · Feb 17, 2005

i've got another question... when i short out the black and green atx pins to fire this PS up, do i need to put a load on the +3.3v or +5 rail to get it to fire up...?

Wstinkbait · Feb 17, 2005

No, But if the small sence wires are not shorted to their respective colors it may shut down after a second or two.

kayl · Feb 25, 2005

Melraidin said:
Can anyone provide some specific info, either from their own experience or links, of the current draw of various Peltiers (specifically the 226 W one at Danger Den) at 12 V?

I'm just asking since I've been unable to find decent information on this anywhere so far. So if perhaps someone with a Peltier set up could simply measure it for me?

13.54v is 18.5A 250w

9.21v is 12.5A 115w

12.05v is 16.5A 198w

i guess the way they rate a tec isnt p=vi in this case
heres my journey with tecs, well most of it I did have a chillier on it as well in the end.
with the chillier the current draw fell a little less again, i guess because the tec was pumping less heat. they have their limits though tecs there comes a point where they are a waste of time.
other wise ppl would have a peltier under the cascade system at -100c hotside.

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=260641&highlight=kayl

Current draw of Peltiers @ 12 V

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