Modded MCP350 Results

bobmanfoo · May 3, 2005

Just got done modding my mcp350 with a 1/2" barb and 1/2" ID tubing from pump inlet to HC outlet

idle temps dropped from 26C to 24C on the cpu and 33C to 30C on the GPU, this is with fresh as5 too so temps should drop 1-2C more after curing, i haven't had a chance to test load temps yet but i expect there will be a similar decrease in temps, this is a must-do mod imho

nikhsub1 · May 4, 2005

Shame you didnt leave all else alone and just mod the pump as your results are meaningless now that you remounted the WB's. I know it performs better, but not 4c.

bobmanfoo · May 4, 2005

nikhsub1 said:
Shame you didnt leave all else alone and just mod the pump as your results are meaningless now that you remounted the WB's. I know it performs better, but not 4c.

i would have left everything alone if i could but there was no way to drain the loop without removing the blocks, i was suprised to see 4C drop too but now ill never know for sure :shrug:

either way im very happy with the results

nikhsub1 · May 4, 2005

Nice job though BTW! Is that an eheim barb you used? Did you make a worklog of the mod?

thegreek · May 4, 2005

Nice job with the pump... I am hoping someone release's some aftermarket tops for the rest of us.

Acurax · May 4, 2005

Nicely done! Looks great.

bobmanfoo · May 4, 2005

nikhsub1 said:
Nice job though BTW! Is that an eheim barb you used? Did you make a worklog of the mod?

its not an ehiem barb, it was a 1/2" barb to 3/8" barb reducer from jabtech, i originally planned on using the 3/8" barb until i saw how much bigger the ID of the 1/2" was

worklog? sorry but whats that? the mod was pretty much straight foward, i used a bit that was the same size as the existing inlet tapped a hole there so it would be center, then i moved up to the next size bit until i got to the 1/2". i then dremeled the top so the barb neck would be flush with the pump, then cut the barb down so it would be flush with the underside of the top, then epoxied it together

BTW, i reallized that i loaded the wrong profile in bios after i put my rig back together, it was at 2.5ghz @ 1.48v instead of 2.65ghz @ 1.57v :shrug:

idle cpu temps are 24C now which translates to a 2C drop

XeonStrikeForce · May 4, 2005

I just got one yesterday and it is SILENT

Senater_Cache · May 4, 2005

why did you remove the old intake barb? Couldnt you just have plugged it up somehow, and thus be able to revert the mod by sealing the new intake hole or barb....
Nice job though....one of the nicest looking barb-jobs I have seen so far.

SenC.

zip22 · May 4, 2005

Senater_Cache said:
why did you remove the old intake barb? Couldnt you just have plugged it up somehow, and thus be able to revert the mod by sealing the new intake hole or barb....

nope, in order to create the larger center inlet, you have to drill through the old inlet barb. before (if the pump was standing up straight) the water came in to the top and then went 90 degrees into the center like an 'L' in order to make it straigh in ('-'), the old L has to be drilled out.

bobmanfoo · May 4, 2005

thanks for the replies guys
yeah it would be impossible to revert back to stock, well maybe not impossible but it wouldn't be worth it, i cut off the barb so i could access the outlet barb easier
this pump is silent though and very well built inside and out, im thinking of getting another and have a seperate loops for the cpu and gpu one since they are so small

Senater_Cache · May 4, 2005

ohh, gotcha....

Fighter2a · May 4, 2005

I'm Impressed. If only draining my system wasn't such a pain.

bobmanfoo · May 4, 2005

Fighter2a said:
I'm Impressed. If only draining my system wasn't such a pain.

LOL, i know what you mean, thats why it took me so long to do the mod, i've had the parts ever since i bought the pump about a month ago but was to lazy to re-bleed

itchy5 · May 4, 2005

very nice mod, looks clean, and great results. i would do that mod in a heart beat but ill stick with the new D4

kbtat2 · May 9, 2005

I just did the mod to my pump and I can confirm a 2 degree c drop. I'm not sure if it was worth it but maybe once I add my vga block to the loop it might pay off more with the higher flow. I also noticed that the pump rpm's went up about 400 rpm's, so the flow rate is definitely higher plus I can hear the water splashing around in the reservoir now and I couldn't before.

bobmanfoo · May 9, 2005

nice, but the water splashing around the rad means you haven't fully bled your system

kbtat2 said:
I just did the mod to my pump and I can confirm a 2 degree c drop. I'm not sure if it was worth it but maybe once I add my vga block to the loop it might pay off more with the higher flow. I also noticed that the pump rpm's went up about 400 rpm's, so the flow rate is definitely higher plus I can hear the water splashing around in the reservoir now and I couldn't before.

AlanD911 · Jul 1, 2005

i was wondering what size of tubing do you use after this mod? do you use 1/2" tubing or 3/8" tubing? Since the inlet is 1/2" and the outlet is 3/8" what do you do?

Acurax · Jul 1, 2005

Whichever you want with good clamps

bobmanfoo · Jul 1, 2005

i have all 3/8" bards in my loop, i still use 3/8" ID tubing everywhere except from the raditator to the pump where i use 1/2" ID, the purpose of this mod is to increase inlet flow

Modded MCP350 Results

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