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How's this watercooling setup?
- Thread starter Patrick_
- Start date
- Thread Starter
- #22
Jas said:
Ok, you sure? And is this the T-Line I need?
About the res being easier for newcomers... IMO, you'll never learn if you go the easy route, so why not take the challenge and gain more experience?
EDIT: Ok, updated my parts above.
EDIT #2: Do I need "Accelerator Nozzles" for the waterblock? What are they?
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2005
- Location
- Kenosha, WI.
Patrick_ said:Ok, you sure? And is this the T-Line I need?
About the res being easier for newcomers... IMO, you'll never learn if you go the easy route, so why not take the challenge and gain more experience?
EDIT: Ok, updated my parts above.
EDIT #2: Do I need "Accelerator Nozzles" for the waterblock? What are they?
The nozzels will come with the water block. The #1 which is the least restrictive nozzle will be installed be default. Unless you have a pump with good pressure behind it, I would say just stick with the #1 nozzle.
That is the T fitting. Bassically, you would have that fitting in your loop generally right before the pump. The line going up will be what yo use to fill the system. You'll want to get a cap for the line, you can go to pretty much any hardware store and find a 1/2" ID plastic or brass end cap.
Filling a T line takes a while. You pour in the coolant till you can't any longer, then plug the pump in for a quick burst. Keep repeating till the loop is almost completely full. Then let the pump run for longer periods, as the air gets cycled out. Adding coolant as needed. Once the loop is full you will leave the pump running for a good 12 hours to both leak test and bleed the air our of the loop.
A res will fill and bleed a system in a matter of minutes, a T-line may take hours. A T-Line is generally thought to provide better constant flow, and saves valuable space, a Res is just plain easier. Pros and cons to both.
You can also just go with a sealed system, forgoing both the T-line and res. Just use a pot as a temporary res, fill it that way and let it bleed for 24 hours, and then just seal it. That's what I'm doing now and it's perfect.
I was talking about the Eheim 1048, which uses 10W if I remember correctly. It looks bad on paper, but cools my system pretty well.
I was talking about the Eheim 1048, which uses 10W if I remember correctly. It looks bad on paper, but cools my system pretty well.
Yeah. From what I've heard, though, filling a T-line takes a while.
If you were to refill with sealed, you'd have to put the pump in the pot again, unseal it and let the water drain out, replace the water in the pot, fill it back up, let it bleed for 24h, and seal it again. How often do you have to refill the system, though? I honestly don't think it's that often if you have the right mix the first time around.
If you were to refill with sealed, you'd have to put the pump in the pot again, unseal it and let the water drain out, replace the water in the pot, fill it back up, let it bleed for 24h, and seal it again. How often do you have to refill the system, though? I honestly don't think it's that often if you have the right mix the first time around.
- Thread Starter
- #28
Damian said:
You've got a point there. I wouldn't know... how often would you need to refill the system if you do it right the first time? Myself, I wouldn't have to (I don't think, at least) refill the system that often.
So, what you are saying is, initially, a sealed system is easier and quicker to fill with water than a T-Line, but if you have to refill, T-Line is easier? If that's the case I'd think almost just forget the T.
Oh, and by the way. Doesn't a res allow you to have more water in the system, therefore more cooling capacity?
Thanks again for all you help everyone, you're turning an utter n00b into an informed one.
- Thread Starter
- #29
Ok, this is probably a stupid question, but:
On eBay a guy is selling a Black ICE Pro II radiator, for 34.94, shipping 10 bucks, mounting kit 10 bucks more, = roughly $54 bucks. At DD it's selling for 74.99. It's up in 2 hours, I'm betting the price will go higher, but, is there major cooling differences between the rad I chose above (Double HeaterCore)?
On eBay a guy is selling a Black ICE Pro II radiator, for 34.94, shipping 10 bucks, mounting kit 10 bucks more, = roughly $54 bucks. At DD it's selling for 74.99. It's up in 2 hours, I'm betting the price will go higher, but, is there major cooling differences between the rad I chose above (Double HeaterCore)?
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2005
- Location
- Kenosha, WI.
Patrick_ said:You've got a point there. I wouldn't know... how often would you need to refill the system if you do it right the first time? Myself, I wouldn't have to (I don't think, at least) refill the system that often.
So, what you are saying is, initially, a sealed system is easier and quicker to fill with water than a T-Line, but if you have to refill, T-Line is easier? If that's the case I'd think almost just forget the T.
Oh, and by the way. Doesn't a res allow you to have more water in the system, therefore more cooling capacity?
Thanks again for all you help everyone, you're turning an utter n00b into an informed one.
Your average res isn't going to hold enough water to affect your temps.
A T-Line would be much easier than a completely sealed and closed system. A T lien isn't that hard to do, it just takes some time to fill.
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2005
- Location
- Boston, MA
Patrick_ said:
temperature and heat are 2 different things.
with a res, you will be adding heat capacity into the system. it will take longer to heat and cool the water, but eventually the system will reach an equilibrium. the radiator will determine the amount of heat you remove from the system. consider this idea: a cup of water vs a bathtub of water at the same temperature. which seems to hold more heat?
- Thread Starter
- #32
Ugh, sorry I keep posting too much. I just have so many questions....
1) At the ViaAqua site (link provided at my first post), in the Detailed Description popup of the pumps:
The 1300 pumps 370gph and produces 31.5 Watts.
The 1800 pumps 480gph and produces 28 Watts.
Why do you think the 1300 produces more electricity?
2) These pumps use 3/4" fittings. Does this mean I cannot use 1/2" tubing?
1) At the ViaAqua site (link provided at my first post), in the Detailed Description popup of the pumps:
The 1300 pumps 370gph and produces 31.5 Watts.
The 1800 pumps 480gph and produces 28 Watts.
Why do you think the 1300 produces more electricity?
2) These pumps use 3/4" fittings. Does this mean I cannot use 1/2" tubing?
- Thread Starter
- #35
Yup, it's me kw. :-D
I see the point now, never really looked into it. With the piece of plastic/whatever covering the whole/most of the heatercore, the fan can blow air through the whole thing, instead of that one section. You can probably make shrouds yourself instead of buying them.
I see the point now, never really looked into it. With the piece of plastic/whatever covering the whole/most of the heatercore, the fan can blow air through the whole thing, instead of that one section. You can probably make shrouds yourself instead of buying them.
- Thread Starter
- #37
I think I'm gonna need to get a smaller heatercore... my case is DEFINITLEY not big enough for an 11" x 6" hunk of metal. Do you think though, that I will lose a lot of performance getting a smaller one? Then again I can just get a beefier one, such as a Camaro HC.
