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- May 23, 2001
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- Asteroid B-612
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- #21
Added ScrollSaw and Swimming Goggles to tool list and amended Jigsaw, Bandsaw, and IPS Weld-On entries.
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When it comes to milling standard grade bits work fine. Shallow bite angle (plastic specific) bits might be more reliable but they're not exactly required.Benvanz said:What about using a mill/cnc mill or a lathe to work on plastics....any special bits needed? etc.
When it comes to milling standard grade bits work fine. Shallow bite angle (plastic specific) bits might be more reliable but they're not exactly required.
And standard lathing equipment for soft metals work just fine with plastics.
Benvanz said:What about using this process instead of using JPS
Captain Slug said:IPS is much thinner and easier to apply, especially to joints.
Acetone, as it is applied, will dissolve most plastics and I doubt that it will set as solidly as IPS will but it's worth a try if you have some scraps laying around.Benvanz said:What about a higher acetone to acrylic ratio?
80-90% fusion so it's 80-90% the strength of the base material. Remember that shape determines strength more than that material itself so if you need something to be rigid add cross-members to it.gvblake22 said:Ok, quick Q. How strong is that JPS Weld-On?
Cool, thanksCaptain Slug said:80-90% fusion so it's 80-90% the strength of the base material. Remember that shape determines strength more than that material itself so you you need something to be rigid add cross-members to it.
I can finally reply to this now.EvilT said:when im milling plastics (mostly abs and derlin) i got to the max mill speed on my mill which is about 3000rpms and use a 3/8 2 fluke mill bit and anything smaller in size i turn the rpms down because the smaller ones tend to clog up.
Captain Slug said:I feel so odd, I'd rather have this over a new car any day of the week.
http://www.dimensionprinting.com/3Dprinting_bst.html