Have I left anything out? (Dothan)

PseudosaneX · May 25, 2005

I've been out of the game for about 3 years now. w0w, so much information to catch up on! From what I've read in the forums last several days I like the Dothan. I made the plunge and the following parts are on their way:

Pentium M 730/Sonoma
Asus CT-479
Asus P4C800-E DLX
OCZ PC-4000 Gold VX (2x512)
OCZ Powerstream 520w
XFX GeForce 6800 GT (Dual-DVI)
Western Digital Raptors (2x36)
Plextor PX-716SA (SATA)
Lian-Li PC-60 Plus

I'll run air to start with and switch to a waterblock setup if need be. Looking to do 3.2 easy.

My only real concern is working the mods on the m/b and CT-479. I'll have to reread the threads regarding those.

If I have left anything important out please make a recommendation.

Thanks,
Paul

You're only as fast as your slowest connection!

Gautam · May 25, 2005

Welcome to the forums.

You're going to need a normal desktop P4 in order flash the P4C800 to the latest BIOS which works with Dothans. It won't POST to begin with. You will need to remove the power connector and jumper pins from the CT479, and then solder a molex connector on. You will also need to add a shim to the CPU.

I hope you're kidding about the 3.2GHz. Even on dry ice, that's questionable. Expect 2.7-2.8 on water.

This would be worth reading.

PseudosaneX · May 25, 2005

Gautam said:
Welcome to the forums.

Thanks!

Gautam said:
You're going to need a normal desktop P4 in order flash the P4C800 to the latest BIOS which works with Dothans. It won't POST to begin with. You will need to remove the power connector and jumper pins from the CT479, and then solder a molex connector on. You will also need to add a shim to the CPU.

I have a 3.06 (23x = ridiculous!) that should work for flashing. As far as the power connector and jumper pin mod I'll have to re-read the thread for it. I saw it in a thread I was skimming through, but didn't pay too close attention to it. I understand the molex aspect of it, but what do to with the jumper pins? Just break them off and solder together or what? Again, I'll have to reread. I also saw a thread regarding the shim work. A thin piece of foam or shall I try the credit card approach?

Gautam said:
I hope you're kidding about the 3.2GHz. Even on dry ice, that's questionable. Expect 2.7-2.8 on water.

Maybe...

You're only as fast as your slowest connection!

PseudosaneX · May 25, 2005

Next question,

How necessary is it to lap the 730? If I'm looking to go beyond 2.4 will it make a considerable difference with heat transfer/dissipation?

Thanks,
Paul

You're only as fast as your slowest connection!

Ssetre · May 25, 2005

I would check the IHS with a straight edge and looking towards a bright light. Try this in a + and X pattern. If you can see light then you need a piece of flat glass and some sand paper.

Gautam · May 25, 2005

There is no IHS...definitely don't try to go about lapping it. I prefer the foam method as it gives you some leeway in terms of the shim's height. I think I will use silicone caulk for mine, either that or rubber bands.

Yeah break the pins off and solder a wire in the place of the jumpers you need. Easy enough but actually removing the connectors off the PCB is whats difficult.

PseudosaneX · May 26, 2005

Foam with one sticky side (towards cpu) right? The adhesive won't hurt/hinder the cpu will it? I think I saw a post here or on xtreme regarding the die height. Must find.

Thanks again Gaut, you too Ssetre!

Evilsizer · May 26, 2005

PseudosaneX said:
Foam with one sticky side (towards cpu) right? The adhesive won't hurt/hinder the cpu will it? I think I saw a post here or on xtreme regarding the die height. Must find.

Thanks again Gaut, you too Ssetre!

the die height is .82mm they suggest using 1mm thick foam.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=861742#post861742

PseudosaneX · May 26, 2005

Evilsizer said:
the die height is .82mm they suggest using 1mm thick foam.

I knew I read that somewhere! Thanks Evil!

I just ordered a Thermaltake SonicTower heatpipe. I hope the foam shim can support the 692grams properly. I am also concerned about the width of the PC-60 not being enough. Case width is 210mm and the heatsink height is 150mm. Yikes! It may be close!

So will 1mm foam be suitable considering my heatpipe is heavy? Or should I even consider thicker?

Evilsizer · May 26, 2005

all depends i would have told you to get the XP90 AU for 29.99 at sidewindercomputers.com and also at heatsinkfactory.com.

PseudosaneX · May 26, 2005

I have seen that being used in other rigs. Is this a superior heatpipe? Also, is there such a term or saying for too much dissipation and it becomes inefficient or overkill?

Evilsizer · May 26, 2005

well the p-m is only 27watts at stock... so taken in o/c they est. it might be 35watts.. any heatpipe is overkill.... but since the Xp90 AU is only $29.99 its the better bang for buck... not to many reviews of the sonictower and the one i found only shows it compared to some passive heatsink *sigh*. I do think that the xp90 would beat it.

*edit*
http://www.systemcooling.com/tt_sonictower-04.html

even the zalman cnps-7000 is overkill..just to give you an idea...

PseudosaneX · May 26, 2005

Thanks for the link Evil. Not the most detailed review, but informative to say the least.

I suppose we'll find out for sure how good, or bad, the the heatpipe works when all the parts come in.

I am excited about getting things going, but nervous about the m/b mods! eek!

Gautam · May 26, 2005

I think you should be fine with 692g on the stock retention bracket. Friend of mine uses an XP90C (690g) and has no problems.

Cooling, I say every little bit counts. There certainly is a boost when progressing from different types of cooling (air, water, chilled water, phase change...) even with the Dothan.

PseudosaneX · May 26, 2005

Gautam said:
I think you should be fine with 692g on the stock retention bracket. Friend of mine uses an XP90C (690g) and has no problems.

Cool, works for me!

Gautam said:
Cooling, I say every little bit counts. There certainly is a boost when progressing from different types of cooling (air, water, chilled water, phase change...) even with the Dothan.

I just ordered a wine cooler to try chilled air. Has variable digital temps ranging from 39F to 68F. This should make for an exciting ambient. I won't be able to fit the whole case of the PC-60 inside, but the slidable m/b tray should fit nicely. Somehow I'll have to cut piece of the door to allow the PSU and drive cables to mount/keep them on the exterior. This should cut down on heat inside the cooler.

Now to research NB/SB kits and FET sinks!

And look what SantaEx brought me! CT-479 is here! w00t!

PseudosaneX · May 26, 2005

Just a thought... I could fashion some clear plexi-glass that fits the dimensions of the interior of the cooler, cut a hole big enough for the slidable m/b tray to catch at the lip, then line the window piece with rubber so it fits snuggly into the cooler...

hmm...

onder

PseudosaneX · May 26, 2005

Alright, I'm not doing so hot with this CT-479. I haven't used a soldering iron in years. Do I need to desolder the pins, or can I just break them off or is there a chance I will mess up the card?

Evilsizer · May 26, 2005

yes desolder first... if you try to break them off you might damage the card.... but to make completely sure first about the modding of the ct-479 read what the guys have done at Xs forums that i posted about... dont get impatient about this.... better to take you time and do it right. :beer:

PseudosaneX · May 26, 2005

I swear I've reread a gazillion times over, it's becoming jibberish! Maybe I should stop for tonight before I burn my fingers off.

In "desoldering" do I need to have "desolder?" or will the iron melt it off?

I managed to push one of the floppy pins up, but sheesh, it's been a pain.

Thanks for the help Evil

PseudosaneX · May 26, 2005

Well, what do ya know! I dropped it and broke a freaking pin. :sigh

I wonder if I can RMA it...

Have I left anything out? (Dothan)

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