flamerail
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- May 5, 2005
wizard james said:i vote for grammer fixing , then sticky...
very nice very nice
**** the grammer fixing!
Sticky now!!!!
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wizard james said:i vote for grammer fixing , then sticky...
very nice very nice
SolidxSnake said:One other note I must add.
If you solder something on an IC Leg the wrong way at first, like its in the wrong position, DON'T TAKE THE IRON TO THE JOINT RIGHT AFTER. Wait at least 5-15 seconds before going back to the joint.
3DFlyer said:Very good advice! I never thought about that, becasue I'm used to doing it automatically, but that is very good advice. Reheating before an IC has a chance to cool down is just as bad as holding the iron to it. I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to make sure these IC's are not overheated. Some of them have very critical thermal specs, and if you go outside of them, you can ruin the IC. Heating a pad too long can cause delaminination of the printed circuit board also. Use ***just*** enough heat to do the job. This is very very important.
SolidxSnake said:So true. this is how I ruined my Creative Zen Xtra... I was resoldering the headphone jack, and I had too much heat cause my iron tip was dirty as sin. I ended up heating the PCB so much, that when I placed the PCB back in the case, I had to move the jack a millimeter. Did that, and it snapped the trace right out of the board!
3DFlyer said:Oh no. I sounds like the heat delaminted the trace, and when you pushed it nothing was holding the actual land at all anymore. Thin copper and gold will do that. Sorry that happened man. That's the aggravating part of OC'ing and modding. You try and get more performance, and then something like that slaps you in the face. I've had stuff happen to me before. I smoked a CPU doing something I shouldn't have been doing...it's called SNDS.
JasonDTM said:I would use 22 to 20ga minimum for voltmodding.
{PMS}fishy said:I think you mean max.
I prefer to use 24g.
This is where flux is very useful even if you use rosin core solder. To tin a wire: brush a little of the flux on the bare wire, get some solder on the iron and touch it to the wire's end. Solder will flow like butta towards the flux. This is especially useful for ~30 awg wires where the method of feeding the solder on the wire to tin it is not practical.four4875 said:After it's stripped, seperated and twisted, I tin it. I have a habbit of just sticking the wire up from bottom through a screw hole on the board im working on to hold it. Then come from the bottom of the wire with the iron and put the solder on top of the wire. I start at the end of the wire and work my way towards the insulation, I've found that this minimizes the amount of melted / burnt insulation