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  1. #1
    Member MoreGooder's Avatar
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    D5 pump, Orientation important?

    I'm planning on a upgrade of my rig in January (new mobo, processor etc etc). As part of that effort, I plan to refresh my water cooling setup. Currently, I use a Danner Mag 3 pump but it is oriented such that the inlet is pointing towards the ceiling. This was necessary to optimize the inlet.

    Q1: Can I use the D5 pump in the same orientation as the Mag 3?
    Q2: Should I just stick with my Mag 3 even though it's 2+ years old?

    As an aside, the main reason for the D5 is because it will allow me to eliminate a relay card that consumes a PCI slot that is used to switch on the Mag 3. SLI setups generally leave only 1 or 2 PCI slots available, so eliminating that relay card would be ideal. I am also aware of other relay kits that I can use to solve this problem, but a relay is in of itself another possible point of failure. DC power means 12V for computer and pump at the same time. If the power supply fails, everything shuts down. Relay fails..... CPU and GPU get cooked.

    THANKS!
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  2. #2
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    Orientation doesn't matter as long as the pump is flooded.

  3. #3
    Member MoreGooder's Avatar
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    WOW! Graystar, that was fast. Thank you for the expedient answer to Q1.

    Comments on Q2?
    Sometimes I feel like 2/3'rds Rice Krispies. Past "Snap" and "Crackle" but just shy of "Pop"!

    DFI LANParty LT X38-T2R, E6750 at 3.6 GHz +Swifty Apogee GTX, EVGA 260 216 FTW + Swifty MCW60
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    Lian-Li 343B case :up: with Single watercooling loop:
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    Thermochill 120.2 to cool GPU
    DDR3.2 + Petras top for above pumps.
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  4. #4
    Member Perseus's Avatar
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    I'm not sure, but I think a D5 can be oriented any way you'd like. This stands to reason because the D5 is used in MANY other fluid movement applications besides water-cooling were I'd imagine that optimal placement wouldn't always be possible. As to whether you should stay with what you have, that's something only you and your wallet would know. I can say this though, the D5 is both powerful AND quiet.
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  5. #5
    Unoriginal Macho Moderator nikhsub1's Avatar
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    The only postition I would avoid is an inlet down orientation.
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  6. #6
    Member Perseus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nikhsub1
    The only postition I would avoid is an inlet down orientation.
    Because this would create negative intake flow and stress the pump?
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  7. #7
    Senior Camel Kicker Joe Camel's Avatar
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    yup, treat it like any other mag-drive, non-self-priming, centrifugal pump (mag3) and it will treat you well back

    your going to have more heat-dump from the D5 vs the Mag3 but also a lot more pressure.

    since you mention SLI, give a little thought to power draw off your PSU...new PC+ 2x vid cards + D5 pump = a top notch PSU.

    GOOD LUCK!!
    cant wait to see your new setup!!


    Perseus, the pump cant prime itself...ie it cant SUCK water... so you need to have it well "fed".
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Perseus
    Because this would create negative intake flow and stress the pump?
    LOL! Oy...the things people come up with!

    When the inlet is down any air in the system might collect in the pump when you turn the pump off, making it harder to start. Too much air and it won't start pumping at all.

  9. #9
    Member Perseus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Camel
    Perseus, the pump cant prime itself...ie it cant SUCK water... so you need to have it well "fed".
    Ah okay, I forget about THAT part!
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  10. #10
    Member Maviryk's Avatar
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    You can have the inlet side pointing down, just keep in mind that it will be very difficult for you to prime your pump.

    Example of an inverted inlet:

    http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/9108/onyx22gc.jpg

  11. #11
    Member MoreGooder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Camel
    since you mention SLI, give a little thought to power draw off your PSU...new PC+ 2x vid cards + D5 pump = a top notch PSU.

    GOOD LUCK!!
    cant wait to see your new setup!!


    Perseus, the pump cant prime itself...ie it cant SUCK water... so you need to have it well "fed".
    Yeah, I was planning on a Seasonic 600W or something equivalent. I might keep the Mag 3 and instead go for a 500W version. The reason is that the power supplies have a 85% efficiency in "typical" load conditions.

    Isn't it amazing how a decision on one part of a system can impact many others?

    Ok, decision made then. I will plan on using a relay kit for turning on the pump and ditch this PCI card/relay thingy.

    Thanks to all that have replied.

    MERRY CHRISTMAS!

    MoreGooder
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    Thermochill 120.2 to cool GPU
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  12. #12
    Member MoreGooder's Avatar
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    Oh, here's my old thread from when I put together my rig in case you're curious. You can see how I applied the Mag 3 pump.

    http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.p...ghlight=Ahanix
    Sometimes I feel like 2/3'rds Rice Krispies. Past "Snap" and "Crackle" but just shy of "Pop"!

    DFI LANParty LT X38-T2R, E6750 at 3.6 GHz +Swifty Apogee GTX, EVGA 260 216 FTW + Swifty MCW60
    8Gb G.Skill PC2 8500 @2.1V, Vista 64, SILVERSTONE ST85F ATX12V / EPS12V 850W Power Supply,
    Lian-Li 343B case :up: with Single watercooling loop:
    Thermochill 120.3 to cool CPU and NB
    Thermochill 120.2 to cool GPU
    DDR3.2 + Petras top for above pumps.
    NEC 20WMGX2 Widescreen LCD <--- roxors!

  13. #13
    Member Maviryk's Avatar
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    I wouldn't pay more than $20 for a relay kit. You could buy a five dollar relay and an SPST Switch (to turn on the pump without turning on the PC) for less than $10.

    It might involve a bit of soldering your PSU though, depends on how comfortable of soldering into your PSU leads are.

  14. #14
    Member MoreGooder's Avatar
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    The relay kit I have in mind has a good filter built into it. That's the real reason for the relay kit. The PCI relay card I use now causes a ground loop to be sent down my Coax Cable from the S/PDIF port. It causes humming on my hifi system downstairs. Unplug the PCI relay card from its slot, humming dissappears.
    Sometimes I feel like 2/3'rds Rice Krispies. Past "Snap" and "Crackle" but just shy of "Pop"!

    DFI LANParty LT X38-T2R, E6750 at 3.6 GHz +Swifty Apogee GTX, EVGA 260 216 FTW + Swifty MCW60
    8Gb G.Skill PC2 8500 @2.1V, Vista 64, SILVERSTONE ST85F ATX12V / EPS12V 850W Power Supply,
    Lian-Li 343B case :up: with Single watercooling loop:
    Thermochill 120.3 to cool CPU and NB
    Thermochill 120.2 to cool GPU
    DDR3.2 + Petras top for above pumps.
    NEC 20WMGX2 Widescreen LCD <--- roxors!

  15. #15
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    I made a relay myself, and it cost me less then 5$. No noise, no humming.

  16. #16
    Member bryan_d's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ocZer
    I made a relay myself, and it cost me less then 5$. No noise, no humming.
    Could you possibly send me a link or a PM with instructions to making a relay on my own? I have tried searching but I have not come up with definite answers.

    Bryan D.

    And to add... I have always used my pumps so that the inlet will always recieve water with the least resistance. One best way to do so is to allow gravity to do some of the work
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  17. #17
    Member MoreGooder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryan_d
    And to add... I have always used my pumps so that the inlet will always recieve water with the least resistance. One best way to do so is to allow gravity to do some of the work
    Yup, totally. That's what drove me to put that huge T fitting at the inlet, with huge 90's on each end. This about as close to submerged as I could get, without actually submerging.

    I don't know about the whole DIY relay bit, mainly because you have to purchase more than just a relay, plus my time is worth more money to me than the $10 I'd be saving by building it myself. Not to mention, I have to spend gas driving all over town to get the necessary components gathered up. In my opinion, the relay kits offered by several companies are a great value. Sometimes, DIY doesn't mean significant money saved, plus you absorb 100% of the risk, with no manufacturing waranty to cover you.
    Sometimes I feel like 2/3'rds Rice Krispies. Past "Snap" and "Crackle" but just shy of "Pop"!

    DFI LANParty LT X38-T2R, E6750 at 3.6 GHz +Swifty Apogee GTX, EVGA 260 216 FTW + Swifty MCW60
    8Gb G.Skill PC2 8500 @2.1V, Vista 64, SILVERSTONE ST85F ATX12V / EPS12V 850W Power Supply,
    Lian-Li 343B case :up: with Single watercooling loop:
    Thermochill 120.3 to cool CPU and NB
    Thermochill 120.2 to cool GPU
    DDR3.2 + Petras top for above pumps.
    NEC 20WMGX2 Widescreen LCD <--- roxors!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryan_d
    Could you possibly send me a link or a PM with instructions to making a relay on my own? I have tried searching but I have not come up with definite answers.

    Bryan D.

    And to add... I have always used my pumps so that the inlet will always recieve water with the least resistance. One best way to do so is to allow gravity to do some of the work
    I did not have any instructions on how to make it, but I guess I could explain what I did. Then you decide what to go for. It took me about 5 minuts to make the hole thing myself. I just went to any regualr radioshack and bought a fuse holder with fuse, a molex splitter connector, a PCB card and a 12V DC relay. The fuse is not necesarry but I wanted to be on the safe side because I was going to add other things also to my card. I stripped one of the males on the molex splitter and soldered it to the PCB card. Then I connected the +12V to one of the connectors on the fuse and from the fuse to the relay input. The ground from the molex goes straight to the input on the relay. You could also just to be on the safe side connect a small diode from +12V to ground as close as possible to the relay to remove any ripple from the relay, but I do not belive it will be necessary. I didn't. Then you cut the cable to your pump and connect one of the wires in series with the relay and thats it. If you still want to do it could walk you through it when the time comes.

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