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D5 pump, Orientation important?

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MoreGooder

Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2003
Location
Saint Louis, MO USA
I'm planning on a upgrade of my rig in January (new mobo, processor etc etc). As part of that effort, I plan to refresh my water cooling setup. Currently, I use a Danner Mag 3 pump but it is oriented such that the inlet is pointing towards the ceiling. This was necessary to optimize the inlet.

Q1: Can I use the D5 pump in the same orientation as the Mag 3?
Q2: Should I just stick with my Mag 3 even though it's 2+ years old?

As an aside, the main reason for the D5 is because it will allow me to eliminate a relay card that consumes a PCI slot that is used to switch on the Mag 3. SLI setups generally leave only 1 or 2 PCI slots available, so eliminating that relay card would be ideal. I am also aware of other relay kits that I can use to solve this problem, but a relay is in of itself another possible point of failure. DC power means 12V for computer and pump at the same time. If the power supply fails, everything shuts down. Relay fails..... CPU and GPU get cooked.

THANKS!
 
I'm not sure, but I think a D5 can be oriented any way you'd like. This stands to reason because the D5 is used in MANY other fluid movement applications besides water-cooling were I'd imagine that optimal placement wouldn't always be possible. As to whether you should stay with what you have, that's something only you and your wallet would know. ;) I can say this though, the D5 is both powerful AND quiet.
 
yup, treat it like any other mag-drive, non-self-priming, centrifugal pump (mag3) and it will treat you well back :)

your going to have more heat-dump from the D5 vs the Mag3 but also a lot more pressure.

since you mention SLI, give a little thought to power draw off your PSU...new PC+ 2x vid cards + D5 pump = a top notch PSU.

GOOD LUCK!!
cant wait to see your new setup!!


Perseus, the pump cant prime itself...ie it cant SUCK water... so you need to have it well "fed".
 
Perseus said:
Because this would create negative intake flow and stress the pump?
LOL! Oy...the things people come up with! :p

When the inlet is down any air in the system might collect in the pump when you turn the pump off, making it harder to start. Too much air and it won't start pumping at all.
 
Joe Camel said:
since you mention SLI, give a little thought to power draw off your PSU...new PC+ 2x vid cards + D5 pump = a top notch PSU.

GOOD LUCK!!
cant wait to see your new setup!!


Perseus, the pump cant prime itself...ie it cant SUCK water... so you need to have it well "fed".

Yeah, I was planning on a Seasonic 600W or something equivalent. I might keep the Mag 3 and instead go for a 500W version. The reason is that the power supplies have a 85% efficiency in "typical" load conditions.

Isn't it amazing how a decision on one part of a system can impact many others?

Ok, decision made then. I will plan on using a relay kit for turning on the pump and ditch this PCI card/relay thingy.

Thanks to all that have replied.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!

MoreGooder
 
I wouldn't pay more than $20 for a relay kit. You could buy a five dollar relay and an SPST Switch (to turn on the pump without turning on the PC) for less than $10.

It might involve a bit of soldering your PSU though, depends on how comfortable of soldering into your PSU leads are.
 
The relay kit I have in mind has a good filter built into it. That's the real reason for the relay kit. The PCI relay card I use now causes a ground loop to be sent down my Coax Cable from the S/PDIF port. It causes humming on my hifi system downstairs. Unplug the PCI relay card from its slot, humming dissappears.
 
ocZer said:
I made a relay myself, and it cost me less then 5$. No noise, no humming.

Could you possibly send me a link or a PM with instructions to making a relay on my own? I have tried searching but I have not come up with definite answers.

Bryan D.

And to add... I have always used my pumps so that the inlet will always recieve water with the least resistance. One best way to do so is to allow gravity to do some of the work:)
 
bryan_d said:
And to add... I have always used my pumps so that the inlet will always recieve water with the least resistance. One best way to do so is to allow gravity to do some of the work:)

Yup, totally. That's what drove me to put that huge T fitting at the inlet, with huge 90's on each end. This about as close to submerged as I could get, without actually submerging.

I don't know about the whole DIY relay bit, mainly because you have to purchase more than just a relay, plus my time is worth more money to me than the $10 I'd be saving by building it myself. Not to mention, I have to spend gas driving all over town to get the necessary components gathered up. In my opinion, the relay kits offered by several companies are a great value. Sometimes, DIY doesn't mean significant money saved, plus you absorb 100% of the risk, with no manufacturing waranty to cover you.
 
bryan_d said:
Could you possibly send me a link or a PM with instructions to making a relay on my own? I have tried searching but I have not come up with definite answers.

Bryan D.

And to add... I have always used my pumps so that the inlet will always recieve water with the least resistance. One best way to do so is to allow gravity to do some of the work:)

I did not have any instructions on how to make it, but I guess I could explain what I did. Then you decide what to go for. It took me about 5 minuts to make the hole thing myself. I just went to any regualr radioshack and bought a fuse holder with fuse, a molex splitter connector, a PCB card and a 12V DC relay. The fuse is not necesarry but I wanted to be on the safe side because I was going to add other things also to my card. I stripped one of the males on the molex splitter and soldered it to the PCB card. Then I connected the +12V to one of the connectors on the fuse and from the fuse to the relay input. The ground from the molex goes straight to the input on the relay. You could also just to be on the safe side connect a small diode from +12V to ground as close as possible to the relay to remove any ripple from the relay, but I do not belive it will be necessary. I didn't. Then you cut the cable to your pump and connect one of the wires in series with the relay and thats it. If you still want to do it could walk you through it when the time comes.
 
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