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  1. #21
    Member Skeith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by princeofdarknes
    Nice, that PCB you got there its pretty cool, i'd do it myself, but Karma is kinda gettin back at me right now, so i dont feel safe messing with corrosive fluids
    So i think i'll try it like the first PWM controller you have up there
    I plan on making me a trip to Radioshack soon now ;P
    Also, would there be anything bad to happen if i didnt put heatsinks on the transistors, will they overheat and mess with the speed?

    awsome it is
    -prince

    *goes to his old taken apart keyboard to check resistors..hehe :P

    edit: nvm about the heatsink part, i didnt read thoroughly, sry

    I was wondering, could i get the input 12v rail and com from the motherboard fan header so i can stream the RPM detection wire to the mobo fan header and it still work and detect RPM?
    Here is a simple way to do this.
    Take a couple connectors from on old PC case (the ones used for the pwr switch/ HDD LED etc.) Cut and strip the wires about a 1cm. Tin the ends with a soldering iron. Attach a 2 conector one to the +12 and ground of the fan. Use the coloured wire for positive and the white or black wire w/e it may be for ground. Now take a 1 connector wire. If your like me and you didnt have one available you can use a 2 connector. take only one of the wires strip it and tin it. It goes into the signal wire of the fan. put a dab of hot glue to keep the wires from poping out. The power conector will attach to the PWM circuit and the other one will attach to the signal pin on the motherboard. If you used a 2 conector wire just make sure the signal line is in the correct spot the others dont matter because those wires arent attached to anything.
    sine all the circuits in a computer are common ground this will work with only 1 single connection to the motherboard!
    Here are some pics to help you visualize.




    Hmm i should post this up in the procecure
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    I don't care about what it was designed to do. I care about what it CAN do!

  2. #22
    Give me a break Senior
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    Quote Originally Posted by David
    Temporarily stuck, unless the mod of this section objects.
    Works for me. Keep on stickin'.
    Thank you Baby. I love you.

  3. #23
    Member princeofdarknes's Avatar
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    Oh! I'm sorry, i didnt know that you could just connect the RPM line to the mobo by itself because it doesnt work with my 7v modded fan, i'm guessing it just doesnt work when your using the 12v in and the 5v as a ground.
    Well thank you for the demonstration images and being patient with me, now i know and i will do that.

    thanx
    -prince

    and may i say.. that's one of the oldest motherboards i've ever saw, what are those EDO RAM slots... yeah i'm young what can i say..>.>

  4. #24
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    apparently some schools block your host for pics, or they're down. not sure which, ill have to look at home.

    edit: likely just blocked, being photobucket.
    Student of Electronic Engineering as of September 20, 2010

  5. #25
    Member Skeith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by princeofdarknes
    Oh! I'm sorry, i didnt know that you could just connect the RPM line to the mobo by itself because it doesnt work with my 7v modded fan, i'm guessing it just doesnt work when your using the 12v in and the 5v as a ground.
    Well thank you for the demonstration images and being patient with me, now i know and i will do that.

    thanx
    -prince

    and may i say.. that's one of the oldest motherboards i've ever saw, what are those EDO RAM slots... yeah i'm young what can i say..>.>
    Yeah welcome to the socket 7 age. LOL There are 2 sets on there, 3 PC100 dimm slots and 2 EDO slots. That mobo supports up to a 500Mhz CPU. I have an AMD K6-400 that goes with it and im planning on setting it up as a cheap HTTP server when i get a powersupply... wich should be in about 3 days when I put the upgraded one in my parents computer .
    And the reason the RPMs dont work with the 7V mod is because the fan is supposed to pull the sensor line to ground. Since the fans ground line is floating at 5v instead the sensor stays at 5v logic voltage constantly so no RPM reading. That is why i posted my biased voltage regulator mod, it keeps the fan at ground so it allows for RPM monitoring. Im young too, ive been messing with computers since i was 8 or so, so yeah ive seen my fair share of old oven 386 computers. Didnt start overclocking till I got my K6-500 though.. first and only CPU I burnt out. apparently 2.9 Vcore with stock cooling was more than it could handle
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    I don't care about what it was designed to do. I care about what it CAN do!

  6. #26
    Member princeofdarknes's Avatar
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    Yeah... i didnt get into computers at all until i was 8 and all i did was color on it XD
    it wasnt until a year or 2 ago i was like OMG i can do so much, so this computer in my sig is my first, from scratch, built/oc'd and its kinda upgrading in phases. I work with what i have at the time, got my dad to PLASMA torch a window out the side and i'm using a glass panel because i'm to lazy to go out and get an acrylic sheet :P
    The oldest computer i saw had a Cyrix 6x86MX runnin at 200mHz!! with a 75mhz x2 bus runnin at 2.9v it accually said on it "Heatsink Required" ... needless to say its sitting here on my desk XD ripped it out of the dead mobo, no use for it so i just hold onto it like a few other processors i have.

    I need to get me some wire though, so i can do this. Probably less expensive and has more experience than shelling $20 for a speed controler.

  7. #27
    Member Skeith's Avatar
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    Ive got a bunch of oldies sittin on a shelf next to my computer. they consist of the following.
    2x Pentium 486DX 33Mhz

    Pentium P150 150Mhz, Pentium MMX 266Mhz, AMD K5 166Mhz, AMD K6 200Mhz, AMD K6-2 400Mhz. (Those are all socket 7)

    Intel Celeron 266 Slot A, Pentium II 266 Slot A, Pentium II 400Mhz Slot A.

    The unit in my sigy is my first decent unit, I was pushing the old socket 7 systems as far as they could handle for years. got a K6 500 up to 600Mhz. The same one i mentioned earlier that burnt out.
    Oh you wanna see old I have this baby sittin on a shelf in my workshop.
    IMAGE
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    I don't care about what it was designed to do. I care about what it CAN do!

  8. #28
    Member princeofdarknes's Avatar
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    oh what a beauty, i wish i had an apple II, it would be my backup system ;P
    I think my ipod 4thgen can run circles around that Pentium 33mhz
    Yeah, you've got me beat, i got that Cyrix, 2 ~700mhz Celerons, and 1 1.1ghz Athlon skt A, jus sittin there, dunno if they work, i dont think the athlon works because a corner of the core are like cut off at an angle, poor thing
    I think the oldest system i've ran on was a Slot A PII 300mhz? i think with 32mb of SD RAM
    The system i ran for the longest was a 1.3ghz duron on an old MSI board so i couldnt Overclock, ugh (no options in the bios)
    I'm really happy with my skt 754 Sempy though with, for the first time i've had DDR Ram ;P i'm glad i have friends who sold me some for cheap, now to see if i can get them to 250...

    That's cool, i hope you show us some more do-it-yourself/mod projects *starts to think of how he's gonna make a front panel for the PWM fan controller he's gonna make...hmm i know! it'll be easy

    -prince

  9. #29
    Disabled go lgdo's Avatar
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    WOW Skeith , thats a great post! You must have a really good job, your knowledge is very god like in electronics :P

  10. #30
    Member Skeith's Avatar
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    Well I wouldent say god like, I know my basics and basic formulas. Im still learning and am majoring in electronics engineering. You never know one day you might buy something for your computer that I helped design doubt it though lol. LMAO and I wish I had a job, Im an unemployed highschool Student in my graduation year.
    Last edited by Skeith; 02-05-06 at 01:05 AM.
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    Intel Core2Duo 1.66GHz | 2x512MB DDR2 667MHz RAM | 120GB SATA HDD 7200RPM | ATI x1400 Mobility 256MB PCIe Graphics | Creative Soundblaster HD MB


    I don't care about what it was designed to do. I care about what it CAN do!

  11. #31
    Member Skeith's Avatar
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    Alright A little late but like I promised Here is the working completed PCB for a 3 Channel PWM controller. The file is a .PCB and can be opened with Circuit Maker 2000. the DEMO can be downloaded

    HERE

    Im not sure if this link is legal or not all I know is that it was at one time legal to download the 30 day trial for free from microcodes page. However they dont seem to have it on their page anymore since a release of a new software package.

    The PCB can be downloaded

    here

    in a ZIP archive. If you have trouble opening the link try right clicking and save as, the service I am using for free hosting doesnt like direct linking.

    You will also need

    this kit

    to make the board. The kit expects you to use the Sharpie as a etchant mask but what you will do is instead use circuit make 2000 to print out the PCB on a piece of paper. Copy and paste them (i should have done it for you) so you get more than one copy before printing. This is key in case you mess up on the following steps as a begginer probably would, as I did the first time I did it.

    Once you have the image printed (I think I fit 4 to a sheet.) get it photocopied to a transparancie. Or If you have a LASER printer you can print it directly on a transparancy. It must be a LASER printer because of the heat transfer method used with the toner.

    Next mesure and cut your circuit board to your desired size. It should fit just within a 5" drive bay if cut properly. Now use a one of those green dish washing pads. (a clean one ) to clean off the copper it will become nice and shiny. This is key for the ink to stick.

    Now get an Clothes iron, an news paper and a clean sheet of printer paper.
    set the Iron to Mid High heat and let it heat up.

    Cut out one of the transparancy PCB templates for the controller. Look at both sides. The image on one side is shiny and the other is dull. The dull side is the side with the Ink on it. Keep it in mind.

    Place the cut and cleaned ciruit board on the newspaper copper side up and place a piece of printer paper over it.

    Now Iron it LOL for a couple minutes.

    Take the paper off and get ready to put the transparancy on the copper INK SIDE DOWN. Align it by peering through the transparancy with the copper before placeing it down because when it comes in contact with the hot copper the ink will stick.

    Place the blank paper on top of the board once again and then Iron it. Iron it for a good 20-30 Sec. Carefull though you dont want the plastic to melt or it will smudge the ink. Now quickly put down the Iron and SLOWLY and CAREFULY peel the plastic off the copper. It should leave behind the INK on the copper. If you feel up to it you can try peeling it as I do by keeping heat applied to it by pulling up on the transparancy and slowly moving the Iron across the paper with the transparancy as it comes off the copper board.

    If you messed up let the board cool and re clean it and cut out a new template and start again.

    If it looks decent let it cool, it doesnt have to be perfect as you can now use the marker to touch up and copper showing through the lines. Once ready follow the instructions in the Kit to etch the board in the solution.

    I find that using a 50/50 mix of the Fehric Chloride and water works beautifully. Move the board around in the liquid exposing it to oxygen perioduclay (ever few seconds) the faster you can move the board the faster it will etch. Try not to spill the chemical as is stains and is corosive. (not that splashing it on my skin ever did anything but dont take the chance) I sugges reading the MSDS sheet for Fehric Chloride before using it. Once your finnished you can bottle the solution and save it for the future.

    Next drill the hole for the components on your board. I belive the kit come with a bit. It is very small so be carefull not to break it. If the bit looks too big for the pads i suggest going to a surplus store (like princess auto if your in canada) and pick up a smaller one. A drill press or a dremmel drill press converter is highly recomended because if the bit is pressed at and angle it will break verry easily. Also dont force the bit, If you see it starting to bend your pressing too hard.

    Good luck everyone!!!!
    Last edited by Skeith; 02-10-06 at 10:02 PM.
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    I don't care about what it was designed to do. I care about what it CAN do!

  12. #32
    Give me a break Senior
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skeith
    Im not sure if this link is legal or not all I know is that it was at one time legal to download the 30 day trial for free from microcodes page. However they dont seem to have it on their page anymore since a release of a new software package.
    I have checked the site it is hosted at currently, I didn't look at every single link but what I saw was demo software and freeware. Also, I have installed the specific program you linked to and it is the 30 day trial version. I'm satisfied.
    Thank you Baby. I love you.

  13. #33
    Member penguin463's Avatar
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    the PCB links don't work. >.<

    I hope to build this thing sometime soon when i can find the time =D

    great guide
    PENGUIN BOX

    CPU------X2 3800+ Toledo @2.6Ghz (260x10 1.35v)
    MOBO----Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe
    RAM------OCZ Gold 2x1GB @ 2.5-3-3-6-1T DDR434
    Video-----EVGA 7900GTO


    HEAT

  14. #34
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    I can see walmart, 44906
    if new hosting is needed for them, let me know and i can take care of it for ya.
    Student of Electronic Engineering as of September 20, 2010

  15. #35
    Member Skeith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by penguin463
    the PCB links don't work. >.<

    I hope to build this thing sometime soon when i can find the time =D

    great guide
    hmm apparently my account expired since I havent used It.


    Quote Originally Posted by four4875
    if new hosting is needed for them, let me know and i can take care of it for ya.
    No worries I have a web server sitting next to me, lots of space,... well as much as the hard drive can hold minus the WIN2K install and apache. *mutters* stupid small 6.5GB hard drive! Ill upload it to my website tomorrow after class. I'd do it now but I'd need a bit of time to rummage through a crap load of old files on my hard drive. Maybe I should get back to working on my website too, Ive been putting it off and I have lots to do yet. I have also moddified it a bit changing the way the transistor is hooked up, (bassicaly swapped two connections) that will allow it to work from a wider range supply of between 5v and 16v.
    File Server:
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    Dual PIII 450/256/100/2.0 | 768MB PC100 SDRAM | 6.4GB Quantum Fireball (main) | 6.4GB WD Caviar (FTP Storage)

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    Intel Core2Duo 1.66GHz | 2x512MB DDR2 667MHz RAM | 120GB SATA HDD 7200RPM | ATI x1400 Mobility 256MB PCIe Graphics | Creative Soundblaster HD MB


    I don't care about what it was designed to do. I care about what it CAN do!

  16. #36
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    Wow, this is great stuff..makes me want to build one. Actually, i'm wondering if this can be used as an 'interface' between my Asrock mobo 4-pin PWM cpu fan header and a typical 3-pin fan? I guess it might need some alteration but looks to be kind of what I need.

    At the end of the day i'd like to be able to control my 3-pin fan with Speedfan through the mobos PWM controller. Do-able?

    Thanks.

  17. #37
    Member Skeith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moschops
    Wow, this is great stuff..makes me want to build one. Actually, i'm wondering if this can be used as an 'interface' between my Asrock mobo 4-pin PWM cpu fan header and a typical 3-pin fan? I guess it might need some alteration but looks to be kind of what I need.

    At the end of the day i'd like to be able to control my 3-pin fan with Speedfan through the mobos PWM controller. Do-able?

    Thanks.
    This depends on whether your mobo has PWMs on the fan headers or not. My device wouldent help any. It is for manualy controlling fans.

    I have some updated to the device that I need to put on my website but I have been very busy lately.
    File Server:
    AMD Semperon 2500+ @ 2104.3MHz (10.5 x 200) 1.9v | ABIT NF7-Sv2 Mobo - Tai Pan Bios | WD 20GB IDE (System) - Seagate 320GB SATA (Storage)
    xfx NVIDIA Ge-force 5200 128MB 333Mhz/500Mhz (Vcore 1.70v/Vmem 3.00v) | 1024MB DDR Dual Channel (2x512 PC3200) UltraValue 2.5-2-2-7

    Web Server:
    Dual PIII 450/256/100/2.0 | 768MB PC100 SDRAM | 6.4GB Quantum Fireball (main) | 6.4GB WD Caviar (FTP Storage)

    Laptop: -Dell Inspiron 6400-
    Intel Core2Duo 1.66GHz | 2x512MB DDR2 667MHz RAM | 120GB SATA HDD 7200RPM | ATI x1400 Mobility 256MB PCIe Graphics | Creative Soundblaster HD MB


    I don't care about what it was designed to do. I care about what it CAN do!

  18. #38
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    Is there an Updated link to the PCB?

    Thank you so much for this!!!! you don't know how much time you saved me as I normal would just get what i thought i might need and start throwing it to together to see if it would work

    Also do i need to add that last cap to each controller if i do more than 2 like lets say 4 in a row?
    Last edited by Davevava; 12-23-06 at 11:29 AM.

  19. #39
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    Excellent website and guides Skeith! *Bookmarks page*

    Sounds like you had quite the adventure with that 5200! That was an entertaining read
    Main - Core 2 Duo e6300 - Asus P5K-E - eVGA 8800GTS 320mb - 2gb G.Skill DDR2-800 - Antec NeoHE 500w - WD 500gb SATA - Lite-on DVDRW SATA - Heatware

  20. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by Skeith
    Once again I liberated it from the PCB of an old computer monitor. (I just cant bring myself to throw anything away )
    Oh how I know what you mean. I just finished stripping a stereo I found in the garbage. The only thing wrong with it is that the cd cover had broken. If I could have found all the pieces, I'd have glued it back together. Well, can't let it go to waste.

    http://thepcguy.myvnc.com/jim/various/PB140003.JPG
    http://thepcguy.myvnc.com/jim/various/PB140004.JPG
    http://thepcguy.myvnc.com/jim/various/PB140005.JPG

    Nice project,

    - Jim

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