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Freaking out... failed install.

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phantasm said:
Thanks for the info guys. Ok, I'm up, reested and fed. I'm filling the loop again but man is there alot of air in there. I can't seem to addd water without it spitting out the top because of the air bubbles. I've rocked the case back and forth as well but i can't seem to get the air out. lol.
Why dont you put it all together outside of your pc. Run it for 48 hours and then install it in the pc. Water that comes out of a bottle or tap will need to stand for 24 hours at room temp or higher to get all the air out of it. Water will also give up more air has you heat it.
 
You dont need to ran it for 48 hours, but couple hrs of leak testing will be fine. Anyway, You should get some tubing where you can see if theres air bubbles running through the loop.
 
bail_w said:
You dont need to ran it for 48 hours, but couple hrs of leak testing will be fine. Anyway, You should get some tubing where you can see if theres air bubbles running through the loop.

You can see air bubbles in this stuff... just have to watch for it.
 
Don't feel bad. I had a bad weekend WCing too. I decided to use 7/16" ID tubing on the reorganizing I did to my case this weekend after doing some mods to accomodate a PA 120.3 radiator. The freaking tubing is so hard to slip over the perfect seal barbs on my DD Maze 4 GPU block that my hand slipped and smacked a capacitor on the card (yeah the block was on the card at the time). A soldered connection got ripped. Hopefully my buddy at work can fix it today. I'm so frustrated with my computer right now. I'm going to wait till I get in some 1/2" ID tubing in a couple of days before I do anything else to it.

I'll never touch this 7/16" crap ever again. It is too difficult to work with as others have stated in the past.
 
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Alien1099 said:
Don't feel bad. I had a bad weekend WCing too. I decided to use 7/16" ID tubing on the reorganizing I did to my case this weekend after doing some mods to accomodate a PA 120.3 radiator. The freaking tubing is so hard to be on over the perfect seal barbs on my DD Maze 4 GPU block that my hand slipped and smacked a capacitor on the card (yeah the block was on the card at the time). Soldered connection got ripped. Hopefully my buddy at work can fix it today. I'm so frustrated with my computer right now. I'm going to wait till I get in some 1/2" ID tubing in a couple of days before I do anything else to it.

I'll never touch this 7/16" crap ever again. It is too difficult to work with as others have stated in the past.


Boil it in water. It will loosen up and be a WHOLE lot easier to get on those fittings. I just redid my build this weekend also putting everything in my new TT armor. I remebered the first time I switched to 7/16 and I didn't boil it... man, my hands hurt and I too was frustrated. Then the previous time before this past weekend I boiled my tubes I was amazed as how easy it was.
 
I couldn't agree with you more Alien about the 7/16"ID tubing. I also gave it a try and found that it just isn't worth the hastle of messing with it and fighting with barbs. I am sticking with my 1/2"ID.
 
I just finished a setup with 7/16" and boy do my hands hurt lol. The one good thing with 7/16" is the tubing isn't going anywhere once it's on... seals very tightly.
 
7/16" tubing and 1/2" perfect seals is overkill. You may as well solder copper tubing together instead ;).
 
You guys are seriously doing something wrong with 7/16" tubing if you're needing that much force to get them over barbs. Also, why would you mount a block before you attach tubing to it? That's careless IMO.

I seriously have had no problems with 7/16" tubing. It takes a bit, but there's no problems, just a little more time. And putting these over the stock tubes on a bonneville heatercore (5/8" OD I'd assume) is probably harder than what you guys are having trouble with.

This stuff's just so damn cheap, I love it.
 
I used the bowl of hot water trick and that worked perfectly for me. Even without the water it wasn't that hard to put on, just takes a little muscle!! :)
 
If it makes you feel any better, i had issues getting the 1/2" ID tubing over some of the barbs. lol.
 
SolidxSnake said:
You guys are seriously doing something wrong with 7/16" tubing if you're needing that much force to get them over barbs. Also, why would you mount a block before you attach tubing to it? That's careless IMO.

I seriously have had no problems with 7/16" tubing. It takes a bit, but there's no problems, just a little more time. And putting these over the stock tubes on a bonneville heatercore (5/8" OD I'd assume) is probably harder than what you guys are having trouble with.

This stuff's just so damn cheap, I love it.

The tip of perfect seal barbs are extremely wide (there isn't much of any taper like on most other barbs), sorta like a D5 pump's barbs (which are very similar and even larger). I used a water based lubricant and hot water for some of the attachments parts but sometimes you have to cut and resize stuff and once you have already got some of the components fastened down in the case it's kinda hard to put the tip of the tube back in hot water. It was my own dumb fault that I broke the card, but I already admitted that. It's fixed now so it's not a big deal anyway.

I'm still not gonna mess with it anymore until I get in the new tubing. Now that I think about it, I should have ordered new barbs too! :p I ordered 1/2" tubing from Petra's and it should be here tomorrow. It sucks not having a computer at home but oh well. :)
 
Alien1099 said:
The tip of perfect seal barbs are extremely wide (there isn't much of any taper like on most other barbs), sorta like a D5 pump's barbs (which are very similar and even larger). I used a water based lubricant and hot water for some of the attachments parts but sometimes you have to cut and resize stuff and once you have already got some of the components fastened down in the case it's kinda hard to put the tip of the tube back in hot water. It was my own dumb fault that I broke the card, but I already admitted that. It's fixed now so it's not a big deal anyway.

I'm still not gonna mess with it anymore until I get in the new tubing. Now that I think about it, I should have ordered new barbs too! :p I ordered 1/2" tubing from Petra's and it should be here tomorrow. It sucks not having a computer at home but oh well. :)


With some pulling, I've been able to get 7/16" off barbs. I did have a D4/D5 with my 7/16" as well. I know perfect-seal is a biatch though, so I give you that.

Either way to each their own. I don't understand why you ordered tubing from Petras though. That's a sin when we have McMaster for dirt cheap :D
 
Here's some finished pictures of the rig. Thanks for all the help.

Leak Testing:


With Window


Without Window
 
For some advice if you ever tear down your loop, you should turn the pump sideways so it's outlet is towards the radiator, and the CPU->pump line goes straight down through that grommeted hole in the case. The tee-line could stay in the same spot, in the CPU->Pump line. I think that would look cleaner, and would be shorter overall.

Otherwise, nice loop. I'm redoing mine after I get everything out of my current case, cut up my new case (after i remove it), and transfer everything over. Can't wait :D
 
SolidxSnake said:
For some advice if you ever tear down your loop, you should turn the pump sideways so it's outlet is towards the radiator, and the CPU->pump line goes straight down through that grommeted hole in the case. The tee-line could stay in the same spot, in the CPU->Pump line. I think that would look cleaner, and would be shorter overall.

Otherwise, nice loop. I'm redoing mine after I get everything out of my current case, cut up my new case (after i remove it), and transfer everything over. Can't wait :D

This was my original plan. However if I mounted the pump like that then i wouldn't have access to the adjustment dial. Initially i had a nice clean loop planned out but during mock up i realised i had no access. So I had to change it.
 
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