Yes, providing they have the approximate same values. However, if you are replacing stuff in the PWM loop, be very very careful to ensure that the replacement has the exact same values. Location is very important. A filter cap is not as critical as say, one in a feedback loop.
-
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replacing capacitors.
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OP
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I could have sworn i saw a sticky, but anywhere know where to get a good solder iron(for my case). Basically I'm gonna need the need a soldering iron +all the accessories to make this a easy job =).
so link me to what i need !
thanks =)
so link me to what i need !
thanks =)
$75 isn't bad for that type of work. I've seen a lot more charged. You're paying for the accumulated knowledge/skill/time/effort and the implied guarantee that it'll get fixed. For $75 though, I'd get a new board and be done with it 
.
.imposter said:
A good iron is an investment for the future. I would skip the headache that comes with the useless Radiocrap $10 irons and get a decent one.
I would recommend a Goot PX201 with a chisle tip for recapping and an ultra-fine 0/3mm to be used exclusively with PCB's. It comes with a ceramic heater and is one of the best irons out there along with Hakko. I have the same iron and it is a lot easier to work with than the generic garbage you find at Circuitshietty or Radiocrap.
You can find it here:-
http://www.bomir.com/online/?sub=441
As for accessories, get a decent Weller solder sucker/pump, some tip tinner and a pair of fine ESD-proof tweezers (ones with replacable tips if you are doing a lot of re-work).
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Goonda said:
I wouldn't bother spending all so much on what is most likely a one-time deal. Just grab a 15-30w RS iron and a tiny solder. Also get a little wick or a solder sucker, and that should be all you need.
I've done quite a bit of soldering with my switchable 15/30w RS iron (including 0603 SMD components) with no problems.
For general, its a no, for for quick and "dirty" (no guarantee), it can be used to check if its really turned bad (internal short circuit).
But again, it depends, if that capacitor is in power loop/part of the circuit like mobo PWM, then the only way to know if its bad or not is to use a tool called ESR meter to measure if its still really good inside "and" a capacitor meter to measure it's capacity.
But again, it depends, if that capacitor is in power loop/part of the circuit like mobo PWM, then the only way to know if its bad or not is to use a tool called ESR meter to measure if its still really good inside "and" a capacitor meter to measure it's capacity.
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- Sep 23, 2004
I'm getting a general idea of what you're saying but the terms are throwing me off. I have two motherboards that are dead. One is really old so I took a few caps off of it. For these caps, I guess, out of circuit caps would I need an ESR meter?
The other board will not power on but the led on the motherboard is on. I didn't see any broken traces. I checked the voltage on the power pin and it's reading 3.40. I've tried 3 different PSUs so it's not the PSU. The board has a bunch of teapo's and taicon's so this all leads me to believe it may the caps.
Since I can't get the motherboard to power on i would also need an ESR meter for these?
Also, what setting(dc, ac, ohm, 2k, 200k, 20v, etc) would I need to use for a "quick and dirty" measurement? I don't know what I would be measuring for.
Sorry, I'm a complete newb to this stuff.
The other board will not power on but the led on the motherboard is on. I didn't see any broken traces. I checked the voltage on the power pin and it's reading 3.40. I've tried 3 different PSUs so it's not the PSU. The board has a bunch of teapo's and taicon's so this all leads me to believe it may the caps.
Since I can't get the motherboard to power on i would also need an ESR meter for these?
Also, what setting(dc, ac, ohm, 2k, 200k, 20v, etc) would I need to use for a "quick and dirty" measurement? I don't know what I would be measuring for.
Sorry, I'm a complete newb to this stuff.
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imposter said:
FWIW Sticky or old threads might be outdated.
Due to European Regualtion (RoHS) most solder no longer includes lead so the melting temp has been upped from 700 to 850 degrees (IIRC) and even then it does not solder as nicely as the old lead solder.
The surface mount cpas I found are quite easy to remove and replace with a little bit of solder wick, or when using the new-fangled solder, just clip off the old cap and remove the legs one at a time with a pair of needle nose and a soldering iron
HTH
CRiMZ said:
Ok, sorry I got it differently, for ths case, just buy the replacement caps and try to solder them back which I think is much more cheaper than buying an ESR meter.
CRiMZ said:
Again, do you think its worth to buy that ESR meter rather than take a speculation by replacing those caps which is far more cheaper ?
CRiMZ said:
Remember there is no guarantee if this method will tell if the cap is good or not, because even the cap is still alive, it can be really bad to the circuit since its degraded so bad. (layman = sick cap)
This method only a quick way to tell if its alive (doesn't mean its healthy) or totally dead.
- Set your DVM setting to Ohm reading at some range at 2000 or 2K (try others as well)
- Short your cap 1st with some metal to discharge it
- Use the probes on those pins (ignore the polarity) and you will see some value in the meter and it will start to increase until it reached unlimited ohm.
- This process can be slow or really fast, so watch the meter or try different range
- Reverse the probes polarity again and watch the same process as previous one
If your cap behave like that, then it still alive but if you see that meter stuck with a constant value, then for sure its a dead cap.
CRiMZ said:
NP, I was born like that too !
Edit:
Posted at other thread HERE, an example on mobo with replaced caps, sorry for the poor pics. J
Watch those two black caps soldered horizontally, the original were vertical, but I made some bent "extension" using stiff wire, since the replacement caps is a lot higher that had some clearance problem with the HSF.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2004
bing said:Ok, sorry I got it differently, for ths case, just buy the replacement caps and try to solder them back which I think is much more cheaper than buying an ESR meter.
Again, do you think its worth to buy that ESR meter rather than take a speculation by replacing those caps which is far more cheaper ?
Remember there is no guarantee if this method will tell if the cap is good or not, because even the cap is still alive, it can be really bad to the circuit since its degraded so bad. (layman = sick cap)
This method only a quick way to tell if its alive (doesn't mean its healthy) or totally dead.
- Set your DVM setting to Ohm reading at some range at 2000 or 2K (try others as well)
- Short your cap 1st with some metal to discharge it
- Use the probes on those pins (ignore the polarity) and you will see some value in the meter and it will start to increase until it reached unlimited ohm.
- This process can be slow or really fast, so watch the meter or try different range
- Reverse the probes polarity again and watch the same process as previous one
If your cap behave like that, then it still alive but if you see that meter stuck with a constant value, then for sure its a dead cap.
NP, I was born like that too !
Edit:
Posted at other thread HERE, an example on mobo with replaced caps, sorry for the poor pics. J
Watch those two black caps soldered horizontally, the original were vertical, but I made some bent "extension" using stiff wire, since the replacement caps is a lot higher that had some clearance problem with the HSF.
Ohhhhh... Thanks and great work on that recap.
well I tested some of the out of circuit caps and some of them went from OL(open line I believe) to like 1.something them back to OL. Few of them just stayed at OL without moving so I'm guessing these are bad caps.
Last edited:
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If you are recapping, I'd suggest you replace ALL the caps on the board for best results. It is good fun BTW.
OP
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I still have no idea on where to buy caps, or a soldering iron for a good price. ideas? i rather stay away from radioshack.
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Goonda's link is the place I buy my stuff from. Bomir Inc. As for caps what is this for?
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- Jan 16, 2002
If you check eBay, sometimes you can come across a good deal on caps. Other good sources are dead hardware. Any home centers such as Home Depot will have soldering irons.
OP
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This is kind of an old post but
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=P5117-ND
are those the correct caps for my needs?
all i see on the capacitors is 6.3v 3300UF. is there anything else i have to look for?
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=P5117-ND
are those the correct caps for my needs?
all i see on the capacitors is 6.3v 3300UF. is there anything else i have to look for?
