• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

DIY Low Cost Benching Station

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.
Question: Does the aluminum trim actually serve a purpose of protecting the MDF, or is it purely looks?

Also, how did you 'countersink' the brackets before you did the aluminum trim?
 
The trim is mostly for decoration, sort of. It doesn't add strength to the plates. However, it does add threaded mounting points. Threading MDF is an okay proposition, but it strips easily, especially for anything under hi tension or frequent screwing/unscrewing. But threading the aluminum makes for a hi strength permanent threading.

Not sure what you mean by "countersinking" the brackets? Which brackets?

Navig
 
The only threading in MDF I've done was drilling pilot holes, then screwing a wood/drywall screw in. After a dozen removals, the threads started getting loose... Nothing a drop of wood glue couldn't fix. :p

Also I noticed the corners of the 40lb MDF subwoofer box that I frequently install/uninstall from my car becomes banged up; I was thinking the aluminum trim helps protect against that sort of damage.

The "countersinking" thing was actually in your for sale thread:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v363/navig/DIY Station/Station3threadedinserts.jpg
I just cant think of a method that will give that consistent cut... But the more I look at it, it seems you were actually gluing on slices of wood...
 
Yup, that's wood trim. Now days I use aluminum trim, and I don't countersink them. The bracket goes over the aluminum trim--I thread the hole thru the aluminum and then into the MDF.
 
Hi Navig:

I signed up for this forum specifically because of this thread, yet it seems I can't PM? These are great looking stations and I was wondering if you were still building them.
 
Thanks for the interest. I do continue to make stations, I'm currently on #24, and I make them at a rate of about 2 every 4 weeks. The current waitlist is 3 deep.

I use ocforums as a screen, so yes, you need a certain number of posts before accessing my for sale thread in the for sale cases and hardware section. The reason is: I don't look as myself as selling an off the shelf retail product. It is an individual hand built custom one-off piece of equipment. I make sure I know a little bit about whom I'm selling one of these babies to.

I can also be found at the xtremesys forums, the raptor pit forums, or the bit-tech forums--if you have the appropriate number of posts at these forums, feel free to contact me there.

navig
 
Thought I'd make a post about the latest innovation on my stations here.


A customer posted me this pic, asking if I could replicate it:

Station24modeltype.jpg

I can't take credit for this design--he attributed it to one Vigo from Team Japan.

The concept is fairly simple. Instead of using brackets to hold the heatsink to the motherboard, you use an external frame to place a press screw to push down onto the top of the heatsink. This same system obviously has a lot of applications for non-standard heatsinks, ie LN2 pots.
 
The first I built was a sliding frame system to add to the top deck:

Station24sidebraceunits2.jpg










Then finished it off:

Station24topdeckgantrymock.jpg














You will notice there are extra standoffs under the cpu socket. This is critical or the pcb is going to bend and break:


Station24completecpusupport.jpg












Next I added the Press Screw block and finished the rest of the station off:

Station24completefront.jpg










Station24completeside.jpg










Station24completeback.jpg
 
Now installing a heatsink like my Ultra120x is as simple as aliging the press screw, then turning the crank:

Station24completenoplate.jpg








You can use a press down plate if you want to put the pressure thru the heatpipes:

Station24completewithplate.jpg









Heatsink appears to be making good contact:

Station24completegoodseal.jpg








Before and after TIM spreading confirms good contact:

Station24completesocketandsink.jpg


Station24completecontactpattern.jpg







And my imaginary copper pot:

Station24completepot.jpg
 
Let me show you in real time how easy and quick this is!





Align the Press Screw:

th_Station24gantryaction.jpg








Then watch me install, swing about, and uninstall a heatsink in under 60 seconds:

th_Station24fullcycle.jpg
 
you should add some sort of locking mechanism to that press so that it can not get loose
 
Just when you thought the best bench station couldn't get better...it does! Nicely done as always Navig. :)
 
Switching panel:

Station4switchpanel.jpg



What color LEDs do you want, Thideras? I have red, green, amber, orange, and blue.

If you don't mind my asking, where do you get your momentary switches? Performance-PCs?

Btw, I also wanted to thank you. I built a benching station for myself based off of your design. I used U-channel aluminium for the edges, which was probably overkill. And I went with 3/4" thick MDF. I'll post a thread about it soon.
 
This is my latest version of the station (#25). It again involves the press screw system, this time with hold-down brackets.





Station25final1.jpg

You may notice that the side rails for the adjustable press-screw gantry are incorporated into the plates and posts.

The 5.25 drives are hanging.

The radiator is in a new location (more on that later).








Station25final2.jpg

7 hard drive slots. PSU bracket #1 of 2.







Station25final3.jpg

Psu slot #2.

Radiator is mounted up here, per the client's request. There are also 2 adjustable feet to stabilize it. Again, the brackets should fit any radiator that I'm aware of. Make sure to use washers for a better fit and to not scratch the radiator's paint job.









I developed 2 types of hold down brackets. The first is my X bracket:

Station25finalxbracket1.jpg


You may notice that it should fit any sized pot. It is made from laminated pieces of 1/16th aluminum strip, bolted together. Really, it should be machined from solid aluminum, but I haven't got the tools to do that.

The X form factor is nice because it can fit any pot without adjustment, but it doesn't leave a lot of pouring room: however, I did include a funnel holder:


Station25finalxbracket2.jpg









Hold down bracket #2 I call my "rail style" bracket:

Station25finalrailbracket1.jpg


It is currently configured for a f1ee pot, which is represented by my wooden blocks. To fit other pots, you would have to drill a couple of new holes.

But it does offer a much larger pour-hole.


Altho, again, you can attach a funnel holder (I might use a metal funnel tho):


Station25railbracket2_1.jpg







Really, I think, best station I've made yet:

Station25final4.jpg
 
Hi all,



I'm updating this thread because some new versions of my station have been developed.




This was Station#27, sold....to myself. Decided I was going to keep this one, unless someone offers me a price I can't refuse....but note all talks of money must be done on the for sale thread.




Looks like a standard station to start:

Station27start.jpg








But, now it gets interesting:

Station27stained.jpg






I used a "Cordova" deep red/brown stain from Sherwin Williams.


This was then topped with several coats of high gloss oil based polyurethane:

Station27panelspainted.jpg







Staining MDF is a little technique I worked thru on a recent furniture project.





.
 
Hardware was constructed.



Station27postsandtrim.jpg








Here you can see that I've added some extra holes to my my home brew hard drive rack for 2.5" drives:


Station27bottomplatelayout.jpg










Purple and orange LEDs for Power-on and HDD activity:

Station27switchpanel.jpg









And here it was completed:

Station27complete1.jpg









Station27complete2.jpg








Station27complete3.jpg









Station27complete4.jpg







.
 
Out of curiosity: Do you screw the HDDs/SSDs in from underneath? Or how are they secured?
 
Back