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Clocking my X2 3600+ Higher Thread

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The S-clip is pretty solid, much stronger than the stock clip on the Ultra90, I wouldn't hesitate to buy it.
 
Oh man :) That was 400 grit then 800grit and finished with a polish.

120x_lap5.jpg


I am going to put it all back together now with the penny mod outside the case and see how it goes!
 
Something's wrong...

It's taking like about 20 seconds to recognize IDE drives before letting me get into the BIOS. Then once the system starts to boot....it takes like 30seconds before it says DISK BOOT FAILURE.

...

I have my HDD plugged in...I don't get it :confused: Why is it running so slow?

EDIT: ok looks like the jumper was set on Master /w slave...but I don't have my DVD drive in. Alright. Let's see how the temperatures are now.
 
I think this motherboard has gotten more and more unstable over time.

It refuses to boot past 250fsb regardless of multiplier. It just won't do it!
I have dropped the FSB: DRAM to 1:1 and set the vcore to 1.4v!!!

It just boots up and then resets back to default frequencies saying "overclock unstable returning to factory settings".

Right before this I was doing 2.9GHz fine. I set all settings the same and it doesn't boot.
It did this occasionally before when I altered settings, but after a few CMOS resets and reboots the overclock would go through and it would be fine.
 
have you left the cmos battier out for bit to see if that clears up the ocing problem?
 
ahh the joys of large hsfs

i find it way easier to spread the paste on the hs itselfs, and of course as thin a layer as possible without being able to see the hs itself

any chance you have a bad seat with the cpu upon reinstalling the cooler?

any chance during the uninstallation and installation you caused enough bend on the mobo that could've jarred the NB cooler? (have you reset the NB cooler with AS5?)

if all these and others suggestions haven't helped, try taking it out of the case and running it
 
have you left the cmos battier out for bit to see if that clears up the ocing problem?

Like pop the battery all the way out? I have never done this before, so just checking.

ahh the joys of large hsfs

i find it way easier to spread the paste on the hs itselfs, and of course as thin a layer as possible without being able to see the hs itself

any chance you have a bad seat with the cpu upon reinstalling the cooler?

any chance during the uninstallation and installation you caused enough bend on the mobo that could've jarred the NB cooler? (have you reset the NB cooler with AS5?)

if all these and others suggestions haven't helped, try taking it out of the case and running it

The seating is perfect, I may have tightened it a little too much as the board is bent a little bit, but that is to be expected with a large heatsink on a microatx board.

The NB cooler is a HR-05 and should be perfectly fine. I did give it a press down, but that side of the motherboard isn't bent at all.

And that was with everything outside of the case.
120x_lap6.jpg
 
Like pop the battery all the way out? I have never done this before, so just checking.
yes, take it out and unplug the psu. let it sit for about 3hrs if you can, longer if you can to ensure all the power is drained from the motherboard.
 
yes, take it out and unplug the psu. let it sit for about 3hrs if you can, longer if you can to ensure all the power is drained from the motherboard.

Ok I'll pop the battery out while I go to school so that's a good 6-7hour drain.

As for the RAM, I have had it clocked close to 1000MHz in my Celeron 420 rig, so it can't be that.

I said before I have had some inconsistencies with the board, but it usually stuck at the settings I wanted after a few reboots. I have the latest BIOS on it too.
 
Had the battery out for a good 12 hours and I still can't break past 260MHz. The hell?

I am starting to think that when I was tightening my Ultra 120 Extreme back on, I might have bent the board too much. It's only a micro atx board...and with the big and heavy 120X...it might have put too much strain on it.

Another thing is that the fan connectors on the bottom of the board no longer work. Only stopped after my lapping. It's not the RAM as right now I am running memtest86 250x9 and it's fine.

You can see with stock volts 1.23v (according to CPUz) I *used to* do 2707 without any problems:
orthos2.jpg


Now it won't do that at all even with 1.33v and RAM set to 1:1
 
Have you tried upping your chipset voltage?

I'll try that next...but as I said, before it was doing 306x9.5 without any bumps in the chipset voltage.

I have an HR-05 on the chipset as well.

And yeh its not the RAM, right now my 2GB Corsair XMS2-PC2 5400 set is doing 900MHz 5-5-5-15 with 2v...memtest86 stable.

ramat900mhz55515.jpg
 
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Def try the chipset. It may need more volts.


edit; definatly put some volts through that since you got a HR-05 on it!
 
well what if there is bad contact now between the NB/HS?

*edit*
nvm on that last part just saw hr-05... still im wondering if it might be bad contact.
 
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Well I was wrong -- the BIOS has values of 1.24v, 1.27v, 1.32v and 1.36v

It was stock 1.24v and I bumped it to 1.32v and it booted into windows! 4 minutes into Orthos though it crashed.

The heatsink feels solid on the chipset(no slack and feels cool to the touch)...Think I should take it all out and make sure? That means taking the motherboard out of the case...

EDIT: Just opened up Everest Ultimate and it says my Aux temp (that should be chipset) is 28c idle.

I don't know if this problem could be anything else? I mean my PSU Is the HX520 and its only like 2 months old so it can't be that...Ruled out RAM...only things left are CPU or motherboard...but the CPU seems to boot fine 250x9.5...250x9...etc....but it just won't do 260 with any multiplier and even with an extra .15v to the vcore.

I mean right now I am doing 265 FSB...but that's with 1.32v on the NB and I am running Orthos again one last time.
 
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