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  1. #1

    Leak! New DTek FuZion :(

    Hey guys, I just bought a fuzion for my loop and got it all set up today only to find out that there's a leak coming from the fuzion. I believe it's originating in the outlet barb, and it only happens when I move the tube such as when I pull the reservoir out to fill it up, some air gets pulled in which forms a bubble then fluid drips out.

    I'm really disappointed as I've redone my loop twice before and had no problems, though I didn't have the fuzion when I did it. Now I'm going to have to cut more tubing and re-do the loop

    Here's some pictures, why do you think this is happening?!? Sorry for the blur, no no-blur motion stabilization ftL.









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  2. #2
    Member inkfx's Avatar
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    Barb may not be on properly or something. Have you tried some plumbers tape? That worked perfectly for me when bits of water would drip from my GPU block.

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  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by inkfx View Post
    Barb may not be on properly or something. Have you tried some plumbers tape? That worked perfectly for me when bits of water would drip from my GPU block.
    Yeah I've got teflon tape on the barb threads of my reservoir.

    How would you suggest disassembling the loop so I don't have to take the whole thing apart. Or am I going to have to?

    To get the tubes off I have to take the clamps off and cut into them with a razor knife so they come off easily.
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  4. #4
    Member inkfx's Avatar
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    To get that leaked stopped you will probably have to drain most of it to get that spot fixed. Next time, before you throw in all your components and any additives test it with just water to make sure there aren't any leaks.

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  5. #5
    Yeah, looks like I'll have to dismantle the loop at least partially.

    I already took the fuzion apart to install the quad nozzle and gasket that prevents an internal leak with the thing. When I put it back together I tightened it pretty snug.

    Well, I guess I'll dismantle the loop then, good thing I have extra tubing left over, I can salvage the cooling too and just put it back in when I re-assemble the loop.
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  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by inkfx View Post
    Barb may not be on properly or something. Have you tried some plumbers tape? That worked perfectly for me when bits of water would drip from my GPU block.
    Wrapping it with that stuff is a permanent solution?
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  7. #7
    Retired muddocktor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ancalime View Post
    Wrapping it with that stuff is a permanent solution?
    He's talking about Teflon thread tape, which is a roll of 1/2" wide white Teflon. It doesn't have a sticky side like regular tape. You wrap it around the threads and it will seal the threads permanently until you back the fitting out. It's great stuff for ensuring your threaded connections are leakproof. It's also pretty heat and chemical resistant too.

  8. #8
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    ^^ word are nice but pictures are better



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  9. #9
    Senior Something Moto7451's Avatar
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    The only problem with the tape is that it's not a guaranteed solution since the barbs on the Fuzion have straight threads (G1/4). You may need to replace the O Ring or see that it's tightened down correctly. Failing that I'd recommend using RTV silicone to seal the barbs, which is a permanent but removable option.
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  10. #10
    Unoriginal Macho Moderator nikhsub1's Avatar
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    Do NOT use teflon tape... and your going into the OUTLET of the block... center is in, side is out.
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  11. #11
    Yes yes alright here's an update:

    I've corrected the flow direction, thanks for pointing that out!

    I've also determined that the leak is coming from a back end of the tubing. I took the barbs out and the threads were good looking, straight and cut well.

    I applied "teflon tape" or whatever's in that picture up there too BOTH barbs and took the excess width off.

    The tubing came off the metal barbs easily, they are my new favorite barb

    While leak testing with the pump on, clamp not tightened and away from the barb. I started moving the tube around gently and at some angles coolent started spraying out of the end of the hose (I believe the end is irregular cut or something). If I hold it in a certain spot it won't leak but if I move it around it starts leaking.

    Luckily it's the hose that connects my pump outlet to my block inlet, the block outlet hose doesn't do this and isn't clamped either.

    So I'm going now to replace the tube, and see if that fixes the problem, I'll post back with results.

    Thanks for your help thus far, I greatly appreciate it
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  12. #12
    Well I've got the new tube on and wiggled it around and so far nothing's came out.

    Cross my fingers.
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  13. #13
    Member Clockwork_Apple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nikhsub1 View Post
    Do NOT use teflon tape... and your going into the OUTLET of the block... center is in, side is out.
    Why not?
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  14. #14
    Member voigts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clockwork_Apple View Post
    Why not?
    First off, a straight thread with an o-ring is made to be sealed with said o-ring, and if not overtightened will seal perfrectly for a long time and yet remain easily removable since you don't have to tighten them down much. Using Teflon tape with interfere with the correct function of the o-ring as it invariably will get in the way. Teflon tape also has a nasty habit of not just staying on the threads but getting into your loop if you wrap too much of it onto a barb.

    Secondly, Teflon tape is really designed for metal to metal connections. That is what it is made for. If you want to seal metal/plastic or plastic/plastic connections, use RTV silicone sealant. You can use a bit of RTV with straight threads if necessary without causing problems with the o-ring, but if an o-ring is not sealing, the best solution is simply spending .25cents at your local hardware store and getting a new one.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by voigts View Post
    First off, a straight thread with an o-ring is made to be sealed with said o-ring, and if not overtightened will seal perfrectly for a long time and yet remain easily removable since you don't have to tighten them down much. Using Teflon tape with interfere with the correct function of the o-ring as it invariably will get in the way. Teflon tape also has a nasty habit of not just staying on the threads but getting into your loop if you wrap too much of it onto a barb.

    Secondly, Teflon tape is really designed for metal to metal connections. That is what it is made for. If you want to seal metal/plastic or plastic/plastic connections, use RTV silicone sealant. You can use a bit of RTV with straight threads if necessary without causing problems with the o-ring, but if an o-ring is not sealing, the best solution is simply spending .25cents at your local hardware store and getting a new one.

    Well the tube seemed to be the problem. I put the new one on and wiggled it in all different directions moving the res around aswell and not one drop came out.

    I put the teflon tape in there already so I'll take it out the next time I tear down my loop. I only wrapped it around 1 1/2 to 2 times, not very much.

    I'm going for the first boot now If it starts leaking again it just goes on my video card and that things old anyway :P
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  16. #16
    Member aja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by voigts View Post
    First off, a straight thread with an o-ring is made to be sealed with said o-ring, and if not overtightened will seal perfrectly for a long time and yet remain easily removable since you don't have to tighten them down much. Using Teflon tape with interfere with the correct function of the o-ring as it invariably will get in the way. Teflon tape also has a nasty habit of not just staying on the threads but getting into your loop if you wrap too much of it onto a barb.

    Secondly, Teflon tape is really designed for metal to metal connections. That is what it is made for. If you want to seal metal/plastic or plastic/plastic connections, use RTV silicone sealant. You can use a bit of RTV with straight threads if necessary without causing problems with the o-ring, but if an o-ring is not sealing, the best solution is simply spending .25cents at your local hardware store and getting a new one.
    Very well said!

    O-rings are sometimes diffecult to get for a specific size/thickness.

    But I definitely agree with the silicone sealent - works great!

  17. #17
    Member Clockwork_Apple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by voigts View Post
    First off, a straight thread with an o-ring is made to be sealed with said o-ring, and if not overtightened will seal perfrectly for a long time and yet remain easily removable since you don't have to tighten them down much. Using Teflon tape with interfere with the correct function of the o-ring as it invariably will get in the way. Teflon tape also has a nasty habit of not just staying on the threads but getting into your loop if you wrap too much of it onto a barb.

    Secondly, Teflon tape is really designed for metal to metal connections. That is what it is made for. If you want to seal metal/plastic or plastic/plastic connections, use RTV silicone sealant. You can use a bit of RTV with straight threads if necessary without causing problems with the o-ring, but if an o-ring is not sealing, the best solution is simply spending .25cents at your local hardware store and getting a new one.
    Thanks for the explanation

    I've wrapped all my metal barbs with 3 wraps of teflon tape, and trimmed the excess, aswell as having o-rings. I didnt bother on the plastic Apogee GT barbs though. I can visually see that the o-ring is compressed.

    Should I remove the tape and replace with RTV silicone?
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