Custom WC Build, First time build, need input!

Well I've had a CM Aquagate R120 for about a year now and I figure I wanna go for some custom watercooling. So I did alittle research and threw some parts together, and as of right now I will be going with CPU only loop, and once I'm comfortable with that I'll throw my NB into the loop as I already have a fusion block on the NB(Formula S.E.). Anyway here's my build, input and suggestions are welcomed!

Pump will be one Swiftech MCP655...

Looks nice, but i would ditch the rez and go with a T line. $75 for a resevior is pretty nuts.

Yeh it's got aluminum fins on it... similar to a radiator I would guess.

Yeah, use a T line or make your own res from PVC. A nice one can be made for around $10.

Another question would be I've got that setup, how much coolant would be needed? 1000ml is only like .264 gallons.

i would ditch the primoflex and go to jab-tech and pick up clearflex. way cheaper. if you really want UV, get either dye, or a UV reactive solution

You want cheaper additive pick up bottle or more of petosin g11 or hydrox

I don't how special these clamps are but you can get the cheaper at hardware store

Rgr that... like the title says, first time build so I'm definitely looking around and grabbing input.

oh, btw. i have the same res. i like it cause it looks cool, but i also got it for a steal. i would ditch it for a swiftech micro. you really wont notice that much difference in cooling capacity unless you have a fan blowing onto it. also, copper and aluminum dont play well with each other. so if you do want to, make sure you have some sort of additive in the loop. if you have the space, you should go with a Swiftech MCR320. from my understanding it will out perform the one your looking at and its cheaper to boot. also, not sure what kind of case your are looking at having this done in, but i would recommend getting 10ft. i know its overkill but i was a retard and had to toss a length of hose and if i didnt buy 10 ft, i would have had to wait until more came in. besides, clearflex at $0.89/ft when you buy 10ft. cant go wrong.

All good advice here. Use a t-line or pick up a micro res. Also if you don't mind shopping at multiple places, pick up some masterkleer tubing from mcmaster.com

I plan to make this an external rig... only thing to be mounted in or on the case is the pump. I run a Coolermaster Stacker 830, but I just want everything external... I'll most likely route the hoses through the front bays. Probably will do a hand made mount outside the case either sitting on top or on the floor for easy access and monitoring.

frozecpu has some unique stuff, but they are extremely high, if you want a res that helps cool, they make a single 120 rad/res combo and only costs about 35 bucks I would get that over the other res unless you are just looking for the bling. If you want complete external zalman kits are nice looking, just don't plan on the best cooling tho, but look wise they rock. Also drop that feser one and get some plain distilled water from a store near you and some ptnuke or primochill utopia (which comes in colours).

Purpose of external is not looks, simply failsafe. I want to run non conductive coolant and be able to monitor/take it apart whenever needed. If it's all outside the case I simply pull the block off and the system is seperate.

^Oh my friend my friend. Non conductive= non productive

As far as i know a non conductive fluid will not stay non conductive very long

How about an example. There was a guy who decided he would try to do something similar to oil submersion cooling, except with water. Now, any chemist can tell you that, in it's purest form, water is completely unconductive to electricity. Knowing this, he went out and got a bunch of ultra ultra pure water. He setup the computer, poured the water around it and, lo and behold, it turned on. So, water being nonconductiveroved. This setup lasted all of about 20 minutes before he shorted out and killed his gear. When water (the primary ingredient in all nonconductive coolants that are marketed at watercoolers) is exposed to metal, the metal ionizes into the water, introducing impurities and making the water conductive. THAT SAID...your block and rad are fully metal and BOTH setup for maximal surface area contact with the water...so I'd say you have about 20 mins of non-conductive operation. I'd also go so far as to wager that, before adding PTNuke, distilled water is non-conductive...but PTNuke is a must.