Guidance Required

Well as the subject says, I need some Guidance as i have not water cooled in years. Had a Danger Den Maze 1 for my coppermine and a RBX for my Athlon years ago, guessing 2003 and prior was when I last had my feet wet. Oh and i was an evaporator kind of guy for anyone who remembers the BONG craze of way back when.


So basically were I am at now is....
Or i should say i am wanting to cool this:

Core i7 940
X58 MoBo
4870 1GB
Inside a CoolerMaster HAF 932 case.

I know I can fit a Triple RAD in the case roof.
It already has a fill Port drilled in.
My MoBo (GA-EX58-EXTREME) is water cooler ready with Copper block and 3/8 barbs
Gigabyte says to use 1/2 OD housing.

For the RAD I think I should go :
Feser One X-360 TFC Xchanger

Pump:
Swiftech MCP655

CPU Block:
Danger Den MC-TDX

Video:
Danger Den DD-4870

Now for the Hard Part

1/2 Housing is best correct?
Do i need a converter for the water block on my NorthBridge?
What Tubing Do i need?
Are the parts I am thinking about getting the right ones?
What other parts do i need to get this up an running?
Or any other guidance for me.

Reason I want to go back to water is I have grown accustom to quite computing. And my overclock right now i very limited by that. I cant push past 4.1GHz unless i want to make my ears bleed.

Thanks for all your help in Advance, I feel like such a WC noob all over again.

How about one of these for a GPU water block?
XSPC Razor Radeon HD 4870
Swiftech MCW60-4870

Reason i picked DD in my 1st post was thats who i know, but they are $$$ i think.
I'll pay if i have too, but a good deal is a good deal. The XSPC is $87 CAD on sale right now.

Also is speed control on the pump worth the extra cash if I can get the B version on sale? I can always regulate the voltage going to the pump on my own right?

Are you 100% sure that NB block is copper? I see where it boldly states the HEATPIPE is copper but it doesn't say what metal they used for the actual heatsink. I would think that if it BOLDLY stated the heatpipe was copper, it would do the same for the the heatsink.

High-Precision die forming technology utilized to increase the thermal conductivity of the material that makes up the heat sink

Click to expand...

That doesn't convince me that's it copper.

Axis

Looks all copper to me
The boys at XS say its copper.
Although even with an All copper setup I will still want Anti-corrosion additives right?

Petra'sTech Nuke.

No anti-corrosive needed, just water and biocide.

Got it with the PT nuke, and can get local so thats good...

What about my parts through? Is that going to work?
Should i be looking to add another RAD into the Loop before the GPU?


Should have said before the Loop should be (i think)
Pump-> 3 fan RAD-> CPU -> NB -> GPU -> RES/T-Line -> repeat.

I should i be doing this?
Pump-> 2/3 fan RAD -> CPU -> NB -> 1/2 FAN RAD -> GPU -> RES/T-Line-> Repeat


Few Items are on sale right now (till DEC 2nd) and would like a green light if you will on the buy switch:

Swiftech MCP655-B
Feser One X-360
XSPC Razor Radeon HD 4870

JaY_III said:

Well as the subject says, I need some Guidance as i have not water cooled in years. Had a Danger Den Maze 1 for my coppermine and a RBX for my Athlon years ago, guessing 2003 and prior was when I last had my feet wet. Oh and i was an evaporator kind of guy for anyone who remembers the BONG craze of way back when.


So basically were I am at now is....
Or i should say i am wanting to cool this:

Core i7 940
X58 MoBo
4870 1GB
Inside a CoolerMaster HAF 932 case.

I know I can fit a Triple RAD in the case roof.
It already has a fill Port drilled in.
My MoBo (GA-EX58-EXTREME) is water cooler ready with Copper block and 3/8 barbs
Gigabyte says to use 1/2 OD housing.

For the RAD I think I should go :
Feser One X-360 TFC Xchanger

Pump:
Swiftech MCP655

CPU Block:
Danger Den MC-TDX

Video:
Danger Den DD-4870

Now for the Hard Part

1/2 Housing is best correct?
Do i need a converter for the water block on my NorthBridge?
What Tubing Do i need?
Are the parts I am thinking about getting the right ones?
What other parts do i need to get this up an running?
Or any other guidance for me.

Reason I want to go back to water is I have grown accustom to quite computing. And my overclock right now i very limited by that. I cant push past 4.1GHz unless i want to make my ears bleed.

Thanks for all your help in Advance, I feel like such a WC noob all over again.

Click to expand...

Good pump, is that the Vario (D5)? It is better, bit more. The MCP355 is even better with a new aftermarket top.
Radr is awesome, as good as the Thermochill.

The Swifttech GTZ is better than the TDX.

DD 4870 FC is a nice FC block. DD (Jeremy) makes good stuff and are great peeps, well so is Gabe at Swiftech. The MCW60 with the HS for ram is very nice and cheaper, less flow rate than the DD. I would only use one of these, the others are okay but not as nice IMHO.

I'm a 1/2" ID tubing user because it's the best fattest tubing for flow. I'd use dog poop as TIM if it was proven to give better temps. If you get a free flowing system with a good pump, blocks and rad, I think even 3/8" ID would be fine, and pretty sure that the size of the NB pipes is 3/8". If you go with the rest of the hose to say 1/2" ID, you'd still have a restriction to 3/8" (reducers) and in a closed loop it will be 3/8" flow overall. So why not go 3/8" ID all over? It's real popular in EU (10mm I think) and on some pro reviews at xtreme sytems it's not much of a flow rate hit. Much much much easier to route etc.

Distilled water and Petras PT-Nuke or the Ian silvercoils for biocide. You want colored hose, Feser makes some nice UV colored hose, but not in 3/8" ID I think. Pretty bling is overrated, performance is what matters here.

Temp diffs is kinda amazing. Head over to Martins, I gave you a link already and look at temps of water in/out of the rads. Very little diff. All that matters is the res MUST be first (pump needs water to cool bearings), then tube routing. It's proven and can not be unproven. By many with many more years of experiance than all of us combined.

1 Enuff watts dissipation for your heat load (rad/fans) Better rads mean quieter fans = mo' money
2 Enuff flow rate for your loop (pump/pumps) mo' money if needed
3 When you have to make two loops because of the above statements, you split loops and spend more money on a new bigger case, mo' pumps, rads etc.
4 Cry when the above statements conflict with your cash flow


http://www.dangerden.com/index.php [...] e&Itemid=1
http://www.petrastechshop.com/
http://www.jab-tech.com/

Thanks for the input...
BTW you never gave me Martins link gave it to Cluster Yesterday But its all good i read 50X more than i post.

Also found another great link
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/t282232.html
Must read for anyone getting back into water cooling, old rules do not always still apply.

So it looks like I will be going 3/8 just to keep things simple and have an updated parts list:

CPU
-Swiftech APOGEE GTZ

NB
-Integrated 3/8 barb

Pump
-Ek Water Blocks EK-DDC X-TOP Version 2 Custom Top for DDC or MCP350 or MCP355 Cooling Pump G1/4
-Swiftech MCP350 12V Industrial Water Cooling Pump 3/8IN Barbs

RAD
-Feser One X-360 TFC Xchanger Triple 120MM Water Cooling Radiator G1/4

GPU
-XSPC Razor Radeon HD 4870 512MB & 1GB COPPER/ACETAL Full Cover GPU Water Block G1/4

T-Line
-Danger Den Delrin Fillport W/ Wrench
-Danger Den Fill Syringe
-Polypropylene Tee for Water Cooling T Line 3/8IN Barbs

Tubing
-Feser One Feser Tube UV Clear 3/8IN ID 1/2IN OD Tubing (10 Feet)

Additive
-Pts Petra PT_NUKE Concentrated Biocide Water Additive for Water Cooling (10ML)

Barbs
-Danger Den G1/4 to 3/8IN High Flow Barb Chrome Fitting X8

Looks like my waterblock and adapter will in in stock at NCIX.com this week.
So i will be driving down to pick it hopefully in a few days.

What do you say?
Green light on this?