Results 1 to 20 of 51
02-04-09, 01:36 PM #1
How to fix the 'double-click' problem on your G7 mouse.
I had a G7 mouse that started giving me double-clicks when I only clicked once. So after a while, I got another one, and it eventually had the same problem. It didn't seem to be a driver problem, and with some help here, I was able to fix it. It seems the little copper leaf-spring in the 'clicker' is getting worn out, and retensioning it will fix it. At least for my two mice.
WARNING! This is risky! Don't do it if you have any plans of being able to RMA your mouse. Also, it is easy to damage your mouse this way! However, if your only other choice is to chuck the mouse, this may help you.
Here is the underside of your G7 mouse.
I would recommend getting an extra pair of teflon mouse skate before trying to remove these. Frozen CPU carries them, along with other vendors. It is hard to remove them without ruining them. They have several rubberized layers that pull apart easily. If you are going to try and save them, make sure that you get all the way under them before pulling up.
There are a total of 3 screws under the front and back skates. You don't need to remove the side one.
The 4th screw that needs to be removed is hidden under the text here.
Holding the top with one hand, you can remove the bottom of the mouse with your thumb/fingers of the other hand. There are a few catches, but they aren't large, so wiggling a bit will pop it loose. Be very careful about the small white contact button, as they are easy to fall out and lose. You want to make sure you can find it to put it back in.
One you have it open, I remove the wheel for ease of work. It is held in place with a little catch, so lifting up on the spring end will pop it free. And this little box here with the piece of white plastic on top is the cluprit. You need to take the top of it off. The best way I've found to do this is with an exacto blade, or a very small flat-head screwdriver. Be very careful here, as it is thin plastic and easy to break. You want to release the catch on both the front and the back before lifting it off. If not, it is easy to bend one end of the leaf spring.
Once you have it off, you need to carefully remove the leaf spring. Using your exacto blade or screwdriver, just push up slightly from underneath the curved portion of the leaf spring and it will pop free.
You want it to look something like this. You will need to make the curve 'flatter'. Carefully pushing down on it in this position should do it. You don't want to make it too flat, or it will deform again when trying to put it back on.
When you do put it back on, the hole at front goes over the front projection of the metal mount. Once you have it there, slide the back end between the two contact points. Then slide the exacto blade / screwdriver between the curved and straight portions of the spring. Gently pushing down you should be able to get the loose end of the curved portion to 'catch' catch on the mount. Once it is in place, make sure you don't have a kink or sharp bend in the curved portion, and that with slight pressure, it has a 'click' feel and sound. You should also see the back end moving between the two contact points.
Then you need to put the cover back on. Hold it upside down and carefully slide the white plastic contact button into its slot. Once it is in place, turn the mouse upside down and slide the cover back in place. This is so the contact button doesn't fall out of place. The cover should click into place. Once it is secure, turn the mouse rightside up and make sure it still feels like it is clicking. Then reassble your mouse and test.
Last edited by torin3; 08-17-09 at 06:11 PM. Reason: typos
02-04-09, 03:49 PM #2
The link where I found out about it is: http://www.overclockers.com/tips1200/
But it's gone, so here is an archive link: http://web.archive.org/web/200801251....com/tips1200/Intel Core 2 Extreme X6800, Tuniq Tower 120
G.Skill 4x1GB DDR2 800 (HZ)
Asus 4870 1GB
2xRaid0 Western Digital Raptor 150GB
Creative X-Fi Fatal1ty
Antec P180B, PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750W
Dell Ultrasharp 30" Widescreen LCD
02-04-09, 06:44 PM #3
Ok, images fixed.
02-05-09, 03:42 AM #4
LOL, will this viod your warranty?My system ------> Mobo: Asus Sabertooth|CPU: i7 950|HDD: WD 750GB 5400rpm green, 808.08GB 7200rpm|GFX:CF XFX 6870 1GB|RAM: 6GB RipJaws 8-8-8-20|PSU: Antec TP Quattro 800W|OS: Windows 7 Ultimate x64|Mouse/KB: Razer DeathAdder V2/Razer Lycosa
02-05-09, 06:25 AM #5
05-01-09, 02:47 AM #6
Thanks for this! I just fixed my five year old MX700! It was used when I got it, and it's gone through a few sets of AA's, but now that left click is as solid as ever. Maybe I'll get another five years out of it now. :PASUS P8Z77-V | 2500K | 2x4GB Samsung DDR3 | GTX 750 Ti 2GB
512GB Crucial MX100 | Seasonic S12 600w
y2 DAC --> Custom M^3 --> Custom LM3875 ChipAmp --> Modula MTs
Dual Dell 2007WFP
08-10-09, 04:34 AM #7
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
had to create an account to thank you for this guide, just fixed the double click problem on my MX revolution thanks to it, with a little help from this thread on the logitech forums for opening up the MX revo. Tinkering with that tiny spring was probably one of the most frustrating exercises I've undertaken in a while but I managed to restrain myself from smashing the mouse into microscopic bits and eventually got it sorted out, seems to be working fantastic now.
08-10-09, 03:14 PM #8
08-16-09, 03:00 AM #9
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
that was very helpful and very detailed as to how to fix the problem. But i thought i would just add one thing... i found this site and signed up because i was trying to take my g7 apart for other reasons that i have owned for about 5years now. i think i know what your problem is... you click too damn hard. mine has never done this to me but has gotten gunk inside slowing the wheel and making the dpi adjusters stick but never a double click problem.. i am a gamer and find myself doing it sometimes too when in certain situations. just figured i would give everybody my input lol
08-16-09, 03:08 AM #10
hmm i dont have the double click problem your talking about but if it ever does happen to me ill definitely be referring back to this guide thanks alot bro![2600K - 4.5GHZ | Swiftech HeatKiller- MCR 120.3 - 6 Fans]
[MSI P67A-G45 | 2x4gb gskill]
[x2 7970's | EK vga blocks | MCR120.3 - 3 Fans | X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty]
[x2 OCZ Vertex 3 raid 0 | x3 WD 3TB red | Coarsair 1000HX | Lian Li V2000 ]
Laptop Service Manuals
Dont forget to hit that thanks button!!
08-17-09, 08:12 AM #11
08-17-09, 03:07 PM #12
08-24-09, 02:47 PM #13
Wow, a hour of searching on google for a fix for my g7 , were it got to the point that it was more of a work thing to go check websites. ocf link got my eyes, so i did the little fix. After spending 20 mins to find the little white thing that flew off on the floor.. (was 3 inchs away from my foot the whole time) i got it all back together, and yay no x2 clicking when i dont want it.
09-21-09, 06:33 AM #14
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
Thanks for the fix. It absolutely works for my old Logitech G7.
However I didn't take the leaf spring (the copper looking thing) out of its original position. I just took a small flat head screwdriver and pushed it upward from the bottom curved portion.
It's a little bit harder for me to click, not by much, but no more double clicking.
09-21-09, 08:26 PM #15
02-06-10, 08:59 AM #16
- Join Date
- Feb 2010
Here are my fix steps
I spend 4 hours yesterday trying to bend the cooper spring in a proper shape so here are my observations.
To remove the cover from the micro switch look at the big side of it, with an x-acto knife pry the corner of the of the parallelogram where the external case meets the base of the switch, this is where you have to insert just a bit the knife and with a small rotating motion push the small side of the cover a bit away and then a bit up so it will be released from the switch base lock, do the same on the other side. To remove the cooper spring press on the concave part in the middle of the spring downwards with a toothpick or a jewelers screwdriver so it will unlock from the groove (there is a grove in the middle of the middle protrusion, this is where the curved bit of the spring goes with the 2 small extrusions of this spring part on either side), then it is simple to remove it by rotating the back of it (near the battery sideway and then lifting the other side from the switch base protrusion.
Observe the spring the "straight part" must have a bend on the side away from the battery like the photo I attach if this is flattened out after all the use this is where you should focus more than fixing the curvature of the bend part of the spring (when the spring is straitened the length of it increases so the bend part cannot keep proper tension while in the groove. Use a pair of tweezers to bend the spring in the proper place.
Reposition of the spring, this time insert the front hole of the spring in the front protrusion (away from the battery) on the base of the switch hold it with 2 fingers of one hand while at the same time pushing it towards the battery and then with the tweezers hold on the back part of the spring (the flat surface) curve the whole spring a bit upwards to shorten its length and put it between the 2 contacts on the back of the switch base (battery side). Now the edge of the middle concave part must rest on top of the middle protrusion and not under it (if it ends under you have to start all over) make sure the spring runs straight in relation to the base and in the middle of it, with a toothpick push the concave bit of the spring juuuust a bit so it locks in the groove in the middle protrusion, check sideways to ensure all is right. Now while holding the spring in the middle of the base check that all is working fine by pressing with the toothpick on the the middle point where the white button goes you must hear a clear "loud" click and feel a springy reaction from the spring).
If all is right it is time to put the cover back, just use a bit of saliva or water to moisten the white botton and insert it with the tweezer back in the hole of the cover, this moisture will be enough and act like a "glue" to give you a chance to put it back without falling while the mouse rests properly and not upside down, check that the bootons protrudes all the way up if not you must reopen and retense the spring.
While you are at it make sure you clean all the internals of the mouse with a small painting brush also blow at it with an air canister, clean the wheel very well and make sure no cloth threads are around the wheel axis and nothing blocks the grooves on the wheel that the light sensor uses.
Thanks to the original poster for this.
I hope this helps.
Last edited by Feemann; 02-06-10 at 09:48 AM.
02-15-10, 11:04 PM #17
- Join Date
- Feb 2010
I signed up just to thank you the other day I bought a mint condition SteelSeries IKARI mouse for $30 because it had the double clicking problem and now I fixed it with your help THANKS SO MUCH!
02-19-10, 01:35 PM #18
- Join Date
- Feb 2010
i found bending the cooper very difficult too but eventually the mouse is fixed! thank you very much ppl!
02-27-10, 10:57 PM #19
- Join Date
- Feb 2010
Wow thanks alot for the info. Just fixed my MX Revolution even though Logitech offered to replace it.
Putting that spring back in after bending was the hardest for me. I had to take the other cover off the left button to see how it attached in there.
But I got it back together and my single click is now a single click !
03-28-10, 08:53 PM #20
- Join Date
- Mar 2010
You are correct that the spring wears after some use and your method for fixing it would work but there is a much easier fix.
If you carefully remove the circuit board you will notice that there is an upper and lower board. The upper board is only supported on one side. The side directly under the left micro switch has no support at all. When you press down the board flexes a bit which causes a rebounding action of the board. This "bouncing" effect is what causes the multiple click registrations. When the micro switch is new the inner spring has enough tension to resist this bounce but after some wear it can no longer make up for it. Simply adding some rigid spacers between the boards on the left side will firm up the upper board removing the rebounding potential and make the micro switches base solid.
I took a couple of plastic zip ties and cut the bulky ends off to use as spacers. You could use any rigid non-conducting material as a spacer but I found that my zip tie ends were just the right size to fit snuggly in the gap between the boards. A little hot glue may be required to hold the spacers in place but mine fit tightly enough that no glue was needed. After putting in my new spacers the mouse works perfectly once again without the need to disassemble and repair the micro switch.