How to fix the 'double-click' problem on your G7 mouse.

Don't trash your old Logitech Mice...

My fixed G7 was exhibiting the erratic double-click again about two months after I originally fixed it, and I broke the copper spring on the second attempt to flatten it out. I was a bit dejected, until I remembered that I had an old MX700 collecting dust in one of my desk drawers. I figured that since the MX700's body design was similar to my G7, there was a good possibility that it used the same clicking mechanism. I popped it open and voila! Count 'em - FIVE exact-match copper springs available for future mouse repairs. I'm going to have my G7 forever.

I also am repairing an MX revolution and there is no primary bend. However I have rather pronounced PCB bending under pressure (only present on left side) and an indentation on the inside surface of the mouse button where it makes contact with the clicker switch. The plastic and PCB just fatigued with age. I put a tiny dot of epoxy to fill the gap on the underside of the mouse button and spacers underneath the PCB also epoxied into place and it is working again! The click is noticeably stiffer now with better feedback, and the double clicking/click drag issue is gone.

Many thanks, fixed my X7 Gamers mouse in less than 10mins using the info provided in this post.

Nice guide, helped me fix the mouse (although I didn't find it until after I had already received the replacement).

A suggestion: Because the little white thing is easy to lose and hard to keep in place, use a bit of sticky tape to keep it in place before you remove the cover, and keep it that way until you have placed it back, this way the little white thing will remain stuck to the cover and won't be lost.

Thanks for this guide it helped a lot with the fixing of my G9 that was starting to drop hold-down on my left click button (first one to go most of the time, I'd bet).
Anyways I didn't quite use all the guide, I left the copper piece in place and pushed it a little bit upward between the spring (curved part) and the switch so that when it is pushed downward, the angle forces it towards the bottom part for a more stable contact. I just hope I won't have to do this again anytime soon because the G9 has a cable that goes from the cover to the base of the mouse that is held with a black piece of plastic and it's quite nasty to put back in place.
I also recommend using a pair of tweezers (small one), helped a lot with the placement of the small white plastic part inside the black casing.
Also for the black casing you only need to pop one side (went for front) from the side and from the bottom working your way across the front (or back) side with the sharp and thin exacto blade (same as in pictures of OP).

Good luck! Don't shake.

Hi guys, awesome info in this post!

I just registered to say this:
To preserve the teflon pads, I simply slit them in the location of the screws using a knife and my philips screwdriver. The result is, in my opinion, a much less messy opening procedure as you don't have to worry about the pads at all - just three clean holes and that's it.

Signed up to say, "legend, thank you."

a heads up about those minuscule white clicky things under the cover would have been useful, but took apart another old logitech mouse to get a replacement.

happy gamer now

Finally solved my spurrious double-click problem on Logitech Mk300 mouse

I have finally solved the problem.
First, I tried the suggestion from Giddie01 from Logitech to slow the double click, but that does not help.
Then I tried the hardware fix trying to "un-bend" the small spring as described in: http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=594646
That is very hard to get right and all I achieved is losing the spring which, as springs are built to do, jumped into hiding somewhere on the floor or maybe even among the books on my desk.
Then I discoverd a "software" fix in this Overclockers thread :
http://www.danieljackson.co.uk/fun/old
scroll down about mid page.
That helped somewhat but I still had occasional unwanted double clicks.
Then I read the rest of the Overclockers thread and found that actually replacing the switch is the best solution. It requires some delicate soldering but to me that was a lot easier than unbending the spring.
You will need a steady hand, a fine point soldering iron and a solder sucking pump to remove the stock switch.
I ordered the switches on eBay. Many sources are available. I bought two for $5.29 shipping incl.:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-OMRON-Mi...Apple-Logitech-Mouse-USA-STOCK-/160972832808?
That certainly voids the warranty but then, this issue does not show up until way beyond that period anyway.
Problem solved!

Looks like my G7 is finally dying. The mouse pointer freezes on the screen for about 5-15 seconds at a time, at random intervals. It does this on a few different computers, so I figure it some hardware that is failing on the RF side. Now I have to find a new mouse.

How do you separate the two boards in order to desolder/resolder the switches? my dad thinks the two boards are soldered together (he will be doing the repair as I do not have steady enough hands for soldering)

Feemann said:

I spend 4 hours yesterday trying to bend the cooper spring in a proper shape so here are my observations.

Click to expand...

This was definitely helpful, and I was able to revive my mouse in less than an hour. Definitely worth it given the price of the G700! The trickiest part was re-mounting the spring, but I got there eventually with the help of your description. FWIW the assembly on the G700 was backward from OP's pictures.

Well, I got a G700 to replace my old G7. It lasted me until now. Replaced the entire switch. Yes, I did have to remove the top board by desoldering the grid of connections on the far right edge of the upper board.

Found a video that goes over the process for those that would like to do it.

Thank you for this awesome thread,

But I think replacing the switches is a better (and easier) solution. I did this already many times with my old MX518. (I swear to god, there is no better mouse than this). Even if you're not a pro with a soldering iron, it is still easier to just de-solder the old switch(es) and put in new ones.

In my case, the MX518 has three micro switches. One of them is only for the click of the wheel (this switch is basically never used so it's basically always "like new"), if you don't have a replacement switch you can just solder out and exchange the two, the problematic switch and the switch for the middle button.

Alternatively, you can get cheap USB mice from ebay for €2.90 shipped. This can serve you as a donor for switches and a cord. (Some Logitech mice are notorious for developing problems with the cord). And of course you can also just buy microswitches, ebay, alibaba or any decent electronics vendor, 10x for $2 or so.

(I have 4-5 or so MX518 mice which I collected since the early 2000s. With the spares from them like casings, switches, etc. I can always make it to have two working ones. Comes in handy since the MX518 isn't sold anymore).

** I mean if you already opened your mouse, you can as well desolder the switch and do it right? If you don't have a desoldering pump, heat up the soldering spots of the switch on the PCB with a soldering iron and with pliers or something carefully pull out the switch while heating the contacts. When putting the new switch in, line up the switch over the holes, then use the soldering iron again to heat up the holes from underneath and slowly push in the switch into the PCB while you do this. When entirely in, just solder it on. Or do the entire thing properly with a desoldering pump or desoldering wick. It's IMHO easier than messing with the innards of the microswitches, TBH). Just my $0.02