What do you think of this

Spawn-Inc said:

? do you mean your cards are w/c or one of the tubes for the cpu runs between the cards?

either way nothing will happen, outside of cutting the airflow to the card, to the tubing as water is running through it. and unless the tubing is on the die and the gpu is turned on it won't melt. i've never heard that happening.

tygon, feser seem to the best brands for tubing, everything (sold as water cooling tubing, not hardware store stuff) else is still acceptable though.

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Yea, I'm using the hardware store stuff for now.
I need to replenish my funds and than I'll order some little things, like a rad-box, new hoses, and a few medium yate loons.
In a month or so, I'm going to pick up a triple radiator, but that is long term
Right now, the biggest thing that is bugging me is the bubbles inside of my line do not seem to be going away. I don't think I have the major bubbles, just the kind that does not let the liquid be clear, hazy.

The mcr series rads will be fine even in the gpu and cpu loop, they are solid rads. Tubing wise I find tygon a waste of money, check sidewinder and get the Durelene tubing, made by the same people as tygon and is just as good plus the highest one is .69c per foot. Something to also help with the bubbles is to squeeze the hose before the inlet to put back pressure on the system and help force them thru also at the outlet helps also, are you running a t-line or res as well?

What I think is happening with the air in my loop, is I have an air leak somewhere, probably around my pump. I do not have clamps on my pump and radiator now, I'll get some metal ones tomorrow and see if that helps.
These are the little bubbles that just cause the water to look cloudy, not the ones that hurt performance.

your using crap hardware stuff AND no clamps... you must be rich then....

i would get clamps on that ASAP....

Spawn-Inc said:

your using crap hardware stuff AND no clamps... you must be rich then....

i would get clamps on that ASAP....

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On my water block I have the metal clamps that you tighten with a screw driver.
I'm going to get some more today, I know it was bad, but I havn't had a leak yet, but I don't want to risk it.

I'm going to order some more hardware tomorrow most likely.

Stupid question, but there isn't a single 120mm radiator that could handle the heat load of a phenom, correct?

I'm thinking the XSPC RX120 with an ultra kaze should do the trick, what do you guys think

Have you read skinnes review on the rad?

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=214122

Depends what you accept for delta temps. Water temp vs ambient air temp under load. Performance delta is 5C or so, over 10C is unacceptable. Measuring water temp as a change from the ambient air temps is whats it's all about to measure loop efficeincy.

Say your room temp (air to rad) is 25C and you have a delta of 8C at 200 watts. The water will be 33C, and thats NOT what your processor will be at, it will be quite a bit higher, depending on the CPU block you use, your TIM application, and your mounting ability.

Do you think your 3.8 Phenom is putting out over 200 watts of heat? If you can figure out the electrical watts the CPU by itself is pulling under a load test, then go by the accepted standard that 85% of the watts is dissipated as heat, then you can look at the chart to see if your delta will be acceptable under different fan speeds.

Look at the second to the last chart and the one right above it. It's the 5C and 10C delta charts. All depends what your heat load is.

It's just about the best 120x1 rad on the market. Can't say if it would be enough for a hot processor.

EDIT:

Lastly, the stress heatload using Orthos etc isn't normal running temps, you can go 20% below the Orthos max heat load and be pretty comfortable unless your a folding guy all the time etc. Gaming doesn't push CPU's to the max.

Also take into account what your SUMMER temps are. Lots of peeps at the edge of lesser raddage have to drop their overclocks in the summer.

It's your stuff, best of luck on your choice.

I would stick with a double rad if it were me, but that's just my opinion. Go with a mcr-240 or xspc240 for the cpu, could also handle the nb in the loop too.

Thanks for the help guys
Now here is another idea I have, if I go ahead and buy this the single 120mm rad and see what my temps are sitting at. If there good, leave it alone, but if it gets a little too toasty than pick up another one.

Lemme explain the reason why I would like to go single rad. I currently have two open 120mm openings on my CM690, one in the back, and one on the bottom. I figure it would look pretty sweet to have it all internal, and it would keep it clean looking too.

Now, I'm not stupid, if my cpu get's too hot, thank I will go dual 120mm single rad.

Yea, sounds good. If not enough add another. Room to cut a hole on the top for another rad? With a decent pump you can easily handle two of those rads. They are really free flowing.

Lastly, putting a screaming fan on that rad becomes a reduced gains for noise. Look at the rad tests and you see on a low FPI rad the wattage removed with HS fans begins to level out. Look at the BIX 120 for HS fans, it's actually able to pull more heat overall.

http://martin.skinneelabs.com/HWlabs480GTX-Review.html
Yo'll have to decipher the diff between the PA 120.3 size and the 480 size and what he shows about fan choice, but it is there.

Here is the rad
http://www.jab-tech.com/Black-Ice-GTX-120-Radiator-pr-3611.html

It just can pull more watts with loud fans overall. Maybe enough so you just need one rad.

I think I have pretty much given up on the cloudyness going away. It just doesn't seem to be getting any clearer.

I was wondering if this Radiator was any good

yes it is an excellent rad and i run the triple version of it for my quad.

it is the best rad you can get for price/performance.

Could there be anything bad about mounting my radiator at the top of my case.

Dapman02 said:

Could there be anything bad about mounting my radiator at the top of my case.

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yeah, it falling and smashing into your board.

lol.. Well you may lose a degree or so in cooling, but really, there arent any downsides. Obviously, you will have some better cooling if oyu have fresh air coming in through the rad (if it were front mounted). in top mounting, you generally are pulling/pushing warmed, internal air through the rad. as long as you make sure there is plenty of fresh air coming into the case, then you wont really lose any performance.

I'm interested in making a T-line, but how do I do it?
How do I cap it off
does the hose have to be straight

Dapman02 said:

I'm interested in making a T-line, but how do I do it?
How do I cap it off
does the hose have to be straight

Click to expand...

you can cap it off with pretty much what you want.

i use a Danger Den Fillport.

The hose to the pump input. You cut it, add a T, then put at line up a ways into your case.

If you would just take the time looking at other rigs, maybe looking at other threads, you would of seen this one. Pretty self obvious and no need to wait for a simple answer.

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=138275

Look at the post dates, might want to start at the end.

Alright, so I decided to go for the triple radiator swiftech because they were out of the dual
Is it suppose to take much longer to bleed the system with a T-line

Dapman02 said:

Alright, so I decided to go for the triple radiator swiftech because they were out of the dual
Is it suppose to take much longer to bleed the system with a T-line

Click to expand...

as long as you design the loop (given your case provides enough space) well enough, using a t-line shouldnt take much longer.

for instance, my original loop was cramped into a mid tower and did not have the best layout. With that it took hours just to remove the big bubbles. Now, with my much bigger case and swiftech mcres, it takes less than 30min to get the big bubbles out.