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Thread: Sub Zero Insulation
07-08-09, 03:55 AM #1
There are some great guides for this, maybe the best one is from k|ngp|n http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=125155
But to add to that, this is how I do it.
I use nail polish for insulating around the socket, caps, back of the board etc etc.
On the back side of the board I also use a heater pad.
First layer of insulation.
Paper towel gasket to catch and absorb any drips or moisture that may occur around the cpu.
2nd layer of insulation.
3rd and large layer of insulation.
Add Ceramique (thermal interface material)
07-08-09, 03:57 AM #2
Sub Zero Insulation
Right then kids!
You've been sub zero cooling your cpu and now want to take the next step.
Good for you!
Please note, this can make sub zero cooling on a CPU look and feel easy.
First thing, most everyone who does this kills a card at some point and time!
But if the big clocks/speeds matter to you, this is the next step.
As I didn't take many pictures of my 88U, I'll use the GX2 (Oh the fun, two PCB's )
First off take the card apart.
Not all cards are the same, google your card and see if you can find a "how to"
For the GX2, you can use this one http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Zotac/G...9800_GX2/4.html
This first step can take over an hour on it's own (mine sure did)
After you have it apart, give it a good clean. And Coat the areas around the core and mem with liquid electrical tape or nail polish, both sides, front and back.
You will need to heatsink the digital vreg chips on each PCB as well as the monitor output chip. And make a gasket(s) to go around the core(s)
Make sure you insulate your pot well.
But think about what your insulation will push up against. To fat, it may just kill that item ie: vmem
Now mount the pot to the card, and if your really lucky. You'll have some POS sli bridge getting in the way
07-08-09, 03:57 AM #3
The back of the PCB(s) will get very cold, so you will need to insulate that as well. Or you'll have ice/condensation issues, and then the water will run down the card and into the PCI-e slot. And that's bad
I use two layers, the first layer is just plan closed cell insulation.
2nd layer is the black sticky back insulation, make it over sized to stop air getting in and under the first layer.
One last step, The Motherboard
You will need to insulate around the PCI-e slot with liquid electrical tape or nail polish, front and back.
Rub some vaneline or dielectric gease onto both side of the "gold fingers" that go into the PCI-e slot, and a "small" amount onto the top of the slot itself.
Also pack paper towels around the slot.
Well done, and now test your handy work.
Last edited by Deanzo; 07-08-09 at 05:00 AM.
07-08-09, 03:59 AM #4
Now that we have looked at both CPU and GPU Cooling, It's time for the NB.
Over all, very easy.
Just like the CPU, we need to make a gasket, but this time a little bigger.
Added two paper towel gaskets.
Another layer of insulation.
Last layer of insulation and the hold down.
Add the top part of the insulation.
I used 10mm insulation under the back plate.
Add some other heatsinks for the SB and FET's, and your ready to go.
And then have some fun!
Last edited by Deanzo; 07-08-09 at 05:01 AM.
07-08-09, 04:03 AM #5
I've moved away from using nail polish for insulating around the board.
Using a conformal coating on both sides, is faster, better and costs alot less.
(For New Zealand members) You can pick up a can at JayCars for about $12NZ, and should do 10+ boards. Which is alot better than the $25NZ each board that nail polish was costing me.
Just take off all the heatsinks etc, tape it out and spray! It's that easy.
I don't cover the vreg's around the socket, I spray over the top and clean it off after (I find this faster) the cleaner is sold right next to the conformal coating (For NZ members shopping at JayCars)
07-08-09, 04:04 AM #6
07-08-09, 04:07 AM #7
07-08-09, 04:31 AM #8
07-08-09, 05:20 AM #9
great guides. gotta be stickied"Computers in the future may weigh no more than 1.5 tons."
- Popular Mechanics, 1949
"I think there is a world market for maybe five computers."
- Thomas Watson, chairman of IBM, 1943
07-08-09, 07:25 AM #10
Exactly what I was looking for. Great work dude"Woe to you, Oh Earth and Sea, for the Devil sends the
beast with wrath, because he knows the time is short...
Let him who hath understanding reckon the number of the
beast for it is a human number, its number is sixteen hundred megahurtz!
07-08-09, 07:37 AM #11
That's......so.....beautiful! *sniff sniff*
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07-08-09, 09:14 AM #12
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
- Crack the Skye
07-08-09, 09:42 AM #13
pouring ln2 to like your watering flowers
07-08-09, 07:30 PM #14
07-08-09, 07:39 PM #15
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
Wow, nice write up. I don't see myself ever doing this, but it is cool to see how it is done.Q6600 @ 3.6 Ghz 1.45V TRUE
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ATI x1950 256MB
08-06-09, 12:51 AM #16
y is this not a sticky yet?
so how bout when running a TEC or a phase change? what would you do different?
Last edited by hank123; 08-08-09 at 12:35 AM.GIGABYTE P35-DS3L PENCIL VOLT MOD FOUND HERE!
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08-06-09, 09:53 PM #17
Less insulation but basically the same I'd think. Just insulate in the middle of the socket, around it 1/2 an inch or more and the back of the board behind the socket. I ran a single stage at -31 with only about 3-4 sheets of 1/8 thick insulation around my socket with vaseline around the pins. Neoprene works well, and you can get this stuff called armaflex at the home depot for around $7 a roll good enough for several installations of extreme cooling.
06-05-10, 09:04 AM #18Dis is mai Pee-Cee;
MB: Gigabyte 990FXA-D3 (rev 1.x)
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CPU Cooler; Box AM2 cooler
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06-15-10, 04:13 PM #19
06-17-10, 10:27 AM #20
Deanzo have you ever tried Dragon Skin as insulation/water barrier,
As have seen another bencher rickss69 showing it used on one of his Mobo's, and GPU's