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Need YOUR help with T.E.C. prep.

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trickson

Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2004
I am getting this Monday , Swiftech MCW6500-T-775 Thermoelectric CPU Liquid Cooling Block , Luberex 10-1206 Dielectric Grease , Silicone Conformal coating . I have installed and ready A 600w Enermax @35A PSU Dedicated just for the T.E.C. I have the Swiftech's H20-220 Apex Ultra .
Now I have seen different ways of doing this the spray coating is to me risky as if you get in any were under or in any of the connections CPU , RAM , PCI-E slot then I am f'ed . I do like this way seems less likely I would F things up . eraser . What do I do ? I want to do it right the first time .
I was thinking if I do the spray to keep the CPU locked in and just tape it all off super good then lay the MB flat and spray from above . What do you think ?
If I use the eraser I would then only have to apply the grease in the CPU socket and let it fill all the area . What do you think about that ?
 
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It really depends on how burly the TEC block is.
Some of them can't get very far under ambient, making preparation quite easy.
Do you know what the wattage is on that TEC?


Assuming it's a good chunky one, i would definitely use the conformal coating.
Take the northbridge and southbridge heatsinks off, clean the thermal glop off the dies, and tape over the dies.
Take the mosfet heatsinks off and clean the thermal stuff off them too, don't bother taping them it's not worth it.
Put the CPU in (i would pack some silicone grease into the socket), and then carefully tape over all the PCIe slots, the ports on the rear of the mobo, the SATA and other connectors, as well the cpu lid and any jumpers you might want to move in the future.
Then know that the moment conformal touches the board the warranty is history.
Then, spray away. You want a nice thick coat on both sides. Let dry and do a second coat for good measure, the can should have directions on it.

Once it's dry, give it a very close inspection looking for bubbles or pinholes, then take all the tape off, scrape off the conformal that may have gotten on the NB or SB dies and CPU lid, as well as the tops of the mosfets. You do not want to expose the metal connectors, just the very top of each mosfet.

Now clean the heatsinks, and put new thermal glop on them and reinstall them.

Voila! You now have a waterproof board with absolutely no warranty whatsoever.
Perfect for extreme cooling of all sorts.

This is what i did with my p5q pro, and it's worked quite well. I accidentally covered one entire mosfet bank in ice (and then water, when it melted) with no issues.
 
It really depends on how burly the TEC block is.
Some of them can't get very far under ambient, making preparation quite easy.
Do you know what the wattage is on that TEC?


Assuming it's a good chunky one, i would definitely use the conformal coating.
Take the northbridge and southbridge heatsinks off, clean the thermal glop off the dies, and tape over the dies.
Take the mosfet heatsinks off and clean the thermal stuff off them too, don't bother taping them it's not worth it.
Put the CPU in (i would pack some silicone grease into the socket), and then carefully tape over all the PCIe slots, the ports on the rear of the mobo, the SATA and other connectors, as well the cpu lid and any jumpers you might want to move in the future.
Then know that the moment conformal touches the board the warranty is history.
Then, spray away. You want a nice thick coat on both sides. Let dry and do a second coat for good measure, the can should have directions on it.

Once it's dry, give it a very close inspection looking for bubbles or pinholes, then take all the tape off, scrape off the conformal that may have gotten on the NB or SB dies and CPU lid, as well as the tops of the mosfets. You do not want to expose the metal connectors, just the very top of each mosfet.

Now clean the heatsinks, and put new thermal glop on them and reinstall them.

Voila! You now have a waterproof board with absolutely no warranty whatsoever.
Perfect for extreme cooling of all sorts.

This is what i did with my p5q pro, and it's worked quite well. I accidentally covered one entire mosfet bank in ice (and then water, when it melted) with no issues.

WOW that is just how I need it explained to me . Thank you . I will do this and I hope that I do it right .
 
Eraser would probably work too, you have options.

I personally would conformal it because it sounds like it's a daily driver that will be cold for a long time, i'd want to be very very sure it was sealed.

That's not to say that eraser is a bad idea though, not at all.
 
Eraser would probably work too, you have options.

I personally would conformal it because it sounds like it's a daily driver that will be cold for a long time, i'd want to be very very sure it was sealed.

That's not to say that eraser is a bad idea though, not at all.

Yeah man this is probably the way I will go . Thank you so much .
 
OH yeah here are the spec's on the tec cooler .

Peltier (TEC) Specifications
U Max: 15.2 VDC
I Max: 24 A
DT Max: > 67°C
Q Max: 226.1 W
R: 0.48 Ω
Dimensions: 50 x 50 x 3.1 mm
(L x W x H)
Requires: 1000+ Watt PSU or 320+ Watt Auxiliary PSU

Housing Specifications
Material: CNC machined aluminum
Dimensions: 2.5" x 2.5" x 0.4"
(L x W x H)
Coating: Electroless nickel and Zinc Cobalt plated anti-corrosion treatment
Warranty: 5 year warranty
Ports: 1/4" BSPP threads

Assembly Specifications
Water-block Dimensions: 2.5" x 2.5" x 1.07"
(L x W x H)
(Including cold plate, excluding fittings)
(Fits inside LGA775 no components zone)
Overall Dimensions: 3.1" x 3.1" x 1.07"
(L x W x H)
(including retention frame)
 
That's pretty chunky, it ought to do a decent job of it.

Yeah thank you I hope so . But for some reason some one over on XtremeSystems seems to think it wont do a thing . But I ask why ? Has any one tried this on a Q9650 ? how can a 95w CPU over power a 226w cooler ? even if the CPU ran at 156w It would still cool it off . any way I am going to try this thing out and see just what it will do soon . I will keep you all posted on my progress .
 
The issue is that your PSU doesn't put out 15.2 volts, it puts out 12.

If we calculate for resistance, 15.2v and 228 means there is 1.01 ohms of resistance.
Apply that to 12v operation and you get 142 watts.
142 is still >95, so it will cool the cpu down.
If you start cranking the volts way up and the speed way up, it'll eventually reach the point where it isn't helping.
Generally speaking intel cpus don't actually use their TDP at stock speeds.

I think it's worth trying, personally.
If all else fails you can always try to get your hands on a 15v power supply, or one that has adjustment pots so you can crank the voltage up.
 
The issue is that your PSU doesn't put out 15.2 volts, it puts out 12.

If we calculate for resistance, 15.2v and 228 means there is 1.01 ohms of resistance.
Apply that to 12v operation and you get 142 watts.
142 is still >95, so it will cool the cpu down.
If you start cranking the volts way up and the speed way up, it'll eventually reach the point where it isn't helping.
Generally speaking intel cpus don't actually use their TDP at stock speeds.

I think it's worth trying, personally.
If all else fails you can always try to get your hands on a 15v power supply, or one that has adjustment pots so you can crank the voltage up.
Yeah , Thank you .
I am looking for one now . A good PSU that has some kick .
 
I think a PSU with adjustable pots is probably the way to go. You might message oaklahoma wolf and see if he has any bright ideas.
 
It'd be perfect if it were 15v, 24 is too much for that pelt though.
You could put a currant limiting resistor in, though that'd burn up a bunch more power.
 
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