Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 23
  1. #1
    Registered
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Vienna, Austria
    Posts
    20

    lapping the IHS of a tualatin celery?

    Hi... i'd like to try lapping the IHS of my Celery 1.1a (the damn thing gets much too hot, temps exceeded 71C @ 1466Mhz/1.825v) It's stable @ 1466Mhz/1.675v, but the temps are still out range...

    Before I replace the retail heatsink, i'd like to try lapping the IHS and the heatsink, but I haven't done this before... what kind of sandpaper do I need?

    If lapping doesn't help... which heatsink is recommended for a tualatin celery? The sk6 is way too expensive for me, would a FOP32i do?

  2. #2
    Member Bonka's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Vancouver BC, Canada
    Posts
    763
    if the heatsink/IHS is in really bad shape, you'll want to work your way from 200 grit paper. In most cases, starting out at 300-400 grit is fine. There really is no standard method to sand it but a lot of people like to use the figure 8 motion. Make sure the sandpaper is nice and wet. Be sure to have a piece of glass or mirror to work on b/c you want a nice, flat, even surface in the end. Any grit from 1500+ is for polishing. Done more for looks than anything else.

    Hmmm, you shouldn't be getting those kind of temps even with an Intel cooler. Make sure you've used some sort of thermal paste and applied in properly. Also, what is your case temps? Also, make sure you've mounted the heatsink properly onto the socket. If it's not getting contact with the chip, that's the problem. I've once forgot to put my heatsink back on my socket for 1/2 hour and my temps only rose to around 52-53 degrees celsius. This was with OC in my sig. I have no idea why your temps are so high.

    A lot of heatsinks will work well for the Tualatin. Just stay away from orb fans at all cost.

    The Fop should do fine. However, there are probably better performing heatsinks out there that are similar in pricing. Hmmm, you can try the Volcano 6Cu/6Cu+. I'm not sure if their copper base will cover the entire IHS but I'm pretty sure it will. They peform pretty good considering it's a Thermaltake product. They are also relatively cheap.

    There's also the WBK38 which performs well, but do bear in mind it has a 7000rpm fan.

    If you want something quiet, try looking into the Millenium Glaciator II. Not sure about the cost, but I hear it's great considering the noise output. The coolermaster heatsinks are also quiet but I've heard flaky results with them.
    MAIN Intel C2Q Q9650 (L820B033) @ 4.05GHz (450x9) 1.36875v Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3P Rev.1.6 (FFb BIOS) ThermalRight Venomous X Noctua NF-P12-1300 x2 G.Skill PI 4x2GB DDR2-1100 @ 1080MHz 5-5-5-15 1.9v Corsair HX850 XFX Radeon HD 6670 Intel 320 Series GEN3 80GB SSD WD Caviar Black 1TB x2 Pioneer BDR-206DBK Auzentech X-Meridian 7.1 2G (LME49720HA Op-Amp) HP 2509b x2 Rosewill RK-9000 Cherry MX Blue Lian-Li PC-9F

    SECONDARY Intel C2D E6600 (L631B125) @ 3.15GHz (350x9) 1.4v ASUS P5LD2-VM Rev.2.00G (1401 BIOS) Intel D34017-002 Kingston 4x1GB DDR2-667 @ 700MHz 5-5-5-15 1.8v Corsair CX430 Palit Radeon HD 4850 Crucial M4 Micron C400 64GB SSD WD Caviar Blue 1TB LG GH24NS95 Creative Sound Blaster Audigy SE 7.1 HP w2007 Bitfenix Merc Beta

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Manheim Pa
    Posts
    231
    First you need a good flat surface, I use a piece of
    plate glass from the local hardware store. Some
    hardware stores also have fine sand paper, start
    with about #360 and you can go as fine as you want.
    Another source for the sand paper is automotive
    parts stores. Go slow when sanding and avoid any
    kind of rocking motion ( keep it flat) Same for the
    heat spreader, and HS.

  4. #4
    Registered
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Vienna, Austria
    Posts
    20
    perhaps the temp readings are wrong... i mean... the heatsink is only warm to touch even when mbm or asusprobe show 65C... stability problems don't occure 'til 71C

    the board is an asus tusl2-c with bios 1011 final

    the cpu is @ 43C with default speed/vcore, case temp is 32C (two case fans) cannot get it below 28C even when the case is open a a big fan is blowing into it...

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Manheim Pa
    Posts
    231
    If the HS and CPU are not in good contact, the HS
    will not feel warm. I use a temp probe to monitor
    temps and it reads within 1C of bios.

  6. #6
    Registered
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Vienna, Austria
    Posts
    20
    I already remounted the heatsink 3 times... always with a small amount of asII... (yes, i did remove the thermal pad)

  7. #7
    Registered
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Posts
    12
    MaxMuster, what program are you using to read your temps?

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Manheim Pa
    Posts
    231
    At this point, i believe you have 2 choices. Lap the HS
    and heat spreader and see if your temps improve, or
    confirm your temps with some sort of probe. Also, you
    might be able to see a "kinda footprint" when you
    remove the HS. Look for a thin spot in the ASll on HS.
    This is an indication of irregular surface.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Yodums's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Ottawa, Canada
    Posts
    12,405
    Asus latest bios updates are weird... They were adding like 10 degrees on each. Take a probe or thermometer and measure ambient whatsoever your case shouldn't even be over 5 degrees of ambient.

    Yodums
    Peter Gibbons: Let me ask you something. When you come in on Monday, and you're not feelin' real well, does anyone ever say to you, 'Sounds like someone has a case of the Mondays'?

    Lawrence: No. No, man. ****, no, man. I believe you'd get your ass kicked sayin' something like that, man.

  10. #10
    Registered
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Vienna, Austria
    Posts
    20
    @mighty mouse: mbm and asusprobe

    @pappypete: the IHS has a scratch (had that already when i bought it... ), that's why I thought of lapping it... btw... when lapping the IHS... no wet sandpaper i guess... don't want to kill the cpu

    @Yodums: will go back to 1009 and see whether temps are lower

  11. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Manheim Pa
    Posts
    231
    I lap the HS wet and heat spreader dry. LOL!! I
    don't like the idea of water and CPU combo. Also
    be sure HS is dry before install.

  12. #12
    Registered
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Vienna, Austria
    Posts
    20
    thought so

    btw... there's a little hole in the corner of the IHS... guess some dust from the lapping could get in there... ain't that a problem?

    PS: thx for all the help

  13. #13
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Manheim Pa
    Posts
    231
    My guess is, that hole is to maintain equal pressure
    with rise and fall of temps. Anyone know for sure?

    Edit......A small amount of dust should not cause a
    problem.

  14. #14
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Posts
    303
    I had a C1.0A. The stock HS was pretty darn small. I would think the 1.1A is only slightly larger. I now run a PIII-S 1.26. The HS it came with is also kind of small. I would say that running 1466Mhz/1.825v (yikes that's a lot of Vcore!) would definitely call for a bigger HS. I would go that route.

  15. #15
    Registered
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Vienna, Austria
    Posts
    20
    1.825v vCore was just for burning in and to see how far the temps go up... nice chip... didn't die @ 71C (1.825v/1466MHz/full load) just got a bit unstable

    running now @ 1,675v/1100MHz -> 45C idle (way too high)

    going back to bios rev. 1009 didn't help... a thermometer in the case showed the temp reading of the mainboard to be correct... 31C case temp with 24C room temp... (guess i should get one of those chieftec cases)

    tried another hs from a pIII-733 i had lying around (much smaller than the one that came with the celery), temps went up by 5C... guess the heatsink DOES matter

  16. #16
    Disabled Pinky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Narf City, USA
    Posts
    6,032
    It sounds like the contact isn't being made...

    clean the cpu and heatsink, reapply artic silver to only the CPU, then add the heatsink and clamp it... then immediately remove it and see if it was making contact (check the surface of the heatsink to be sure the entire IHS is making contact with the heatsink). I had a Pal6035 that wouldn't make contact properly and used this method to determine that... glaciator does, and the temps reflect it on my system... which rarely exceeds 40C.

  17. #17
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Manheim Pa
    Posts
    231
    I agree with Pinky.......1.675CV@1100MHz temp 45C
    is to high.

  18. #18
    Member ol' man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    2,478
    I didn't read a whole lot here but if you have a retail chip and you feel you may need to lap the IHS I would think twice about it. My suggestion is to only lap with really fine sand paper cause the amount you need to go down is not much. Starting with 200grit will leave large scratches that you will have to try and get off. I don;t lap IHS's anymore I simply remove it period cause you actually do more damage lapping it than removing the HS. Once you expose the copper underneith it is totally opbvious you have tampered with the chip. Removing the IHS is trickier but when done right it can be glued back on if the chip need be rma'd. One thing I cannot figure out is how to color the IHS silver again Well there is a way but.........

  19. #19
    Registered
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Vienna, Austria
    Posts
    20
    well... i have a 1000grit sandpaper here... just want to remove that nasty scratch on the IHS... i guess this is what is preventing proper contact between the IHS and the heatsing

  20. #20
    Member TASOS's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Athens Greece
    Posts
    1,269
    My opinion is to try and take off the IHS if you think you can do it.

    ol'man has posted some pictures in previeus thread.

    You will see much improvement on your temps.

    I took it off and using FOP32 & AS II
    40C full load.
    Asus P4C800 Deluxe SL7PN 3.2E@4.8GHZ stable...5.14GHZ Max Post
    Prometeia Cooling - Mach I - R404a

    ----------------------------------
    DFI NF4 Ultra-D RA.02 // Winie 3500+@2.75GHZ @1.525Volt //ATI X800XL
    ----------------------------------
    Folding for team #13416

    www.overclockers.gr

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •