- Joined
- Jul 7, 2010
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PSU Cable Sleeving
- Thread starter SecrtAgentMan
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2010
- Location
- Western Germany(misplaced Texan)
I know you are looking at the kits, but just in case you are interested in having someone do it for you. I haven't personally used him yet, but a lot of people have and are very happy. I hope to send my new PSU to him soon.
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=643092
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=643092
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2008
Here you go: MDPC-X
The PSU pins can be a pain to remove, so you'll probably want to invest in some removal tools.
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2005
I bought the silver version of what you have and I love it. The ATX pin remover is kind of a pain in the *** to use, but I have a feeling all ATX pin removers are a PITA because they all look the same. It works though, and the quality is great.
Take a look at some of my pics: http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6561162#post6561162 I've done my power supply as well as all of the front panel connectors.
All that being said, if you're going with all black, you really can't beat mdpc's kit. It's a tad bit more expensive, but if you're willing to pay for it, its probably a nicer kit. Keep in mind that their kit doesn't have the pin removers though, nor does it have some of the other goodies included in the modder-smart one you linked to.
On a scale from 1 -10 what is the technical difficulty of doing this yourself? OR alternatively is it just very very tedious and you could practically teach a child to do it? I am also interested in doing this and the look is unparalleled. I have considered paying someone to do it or buying some pre fabricated ones but price is always going to be an issue. Can someone link me to a guide on how this is done and what tools and such i might need. Thanks in advance for any help.
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2008
Sleeving isn't hard or technically difficult at all. The hardest part is removing the pins from the mobo 24pin, CPU 4/8pin, and PCIe 6/8pin connectors. If you're sleeving each wire individually, then you don't have to remember or mark which wires go where. If you're doing the typical "group" sleeving, then you need to label the wires so you put them back in the right spot in the connector.
There's not much to a sleeving guide:
- Remove pin(s)
- Slide sleeve over wire(s) and cut to length while leaving ~0.5-0.75" of the wire showing on both ends of the cable. If you're doing a non-modular cable, then you can just make sure the sleeve on the PSU end of cable goes into the PSU housing (no need to heatshrink that end either).
- Cut 2 peices of heatshrink, roughly double the length of how much wire you left showing in step 2 above. Slide the heatsrink over the wire + sleeve.
- Put the connector back on the cable.
- Slide the heatshrink to the end of the cable covering as much bare wire as you'd like. Then use a heat source (lighter) to make the heatshrink grip the wire and sleeving. Do this for both ends.
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2008
Yep, just remove one wire at a time, sleeve it, put it back in the connector, then on to the next wire, etc.
Each pin has one or two "flaps" on the side(s) of it, so you can push it into the connector and the "flaps" will pop out from the sides so the pin can't be pulled out. So, to get the pin out, the "flaps" have to be pushed in while you pull the wire.
I've used staples to push the "flaps" in with some success. I also tried a tool, but the ends of it broke off instantly the first time I tried it.
Each pin has one or two "flaps" on the side(s) of it, so you can push it into the connector and the "flaps" will pop out from the sides so the pin can't be pulled out. So, to get the pin out, the "flaps" have to be pushed in while you pull the wire.
I've used staples to push the "flaps" in with some success. I also tried a tool, but the ends of it broke off instantly the first time I tried it.
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2010
- Location
- CT
very time consuming but not at all difficult. Hardest part is figuring out what length to cut the sleeving compaired to the wire length so it is not too short or long, (though longer is fixable, too short is not).
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2008
I always sleeve the wire before I cut the sleeve. Sleeve the wire until there's about ~1.25" of wire left to cover, then cut the sleeve just past the connector, finish sliding the sleev onto the wire and you'll have about 0.5" of bare wire on each end for the heatshrink.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2005
+1. I've found it's rather difficult to get the length right unless you do this.
- Joined
- May 15, 2006
Thought I might jump in here since I was mentioned. 
What I do is put the sleeving all the way up to where I want it. I "mark" it by using scissors to cut a few strands where I want it to end. I then pull enough off to cut the sleeving without the wires getting in the way. This provides a convenient way to get heatshrink on, so that is the time to put it on. Slide everything on and done.
What I do is put the sleeving all the way up to where I want it. I "mark" it by using scissors to cut a few strands where I want it to end. I then pull enough off to cut the sleeving without the wires getting in the way. This provides a convenient way to get heatshrink on, so that is the time to put it on. Slide everything on and done.
