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Power Supply Painting

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guilfoy

New Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2010
Hi All, I'm currently in a build, I have a NZXT beta. If you've seen the NZXT cases they are all black inside. I have an antec 380W supply. I took both halves, the casing, and electrical side apart (without covering the resistors/anything metal). I flipped both over and spray painted the halves with Krylon Flat Black all purpose spray paint. However, some of it did leak/small amounts on the resistors, and some circuits around the edges of the housing. I did it mostly because I had a strong feeling spray paint wasn't conductive, but once I did it, now I'm skeptical and want to know for sure.

Should I worry? I haven't plugged it in. I've looked everywhere online to try and figure out if painting this was a safe move. Getting the spray paint on board inside, I am also finding mixed articles about spray paint being/not being conductive? Which one is it!

Thanks guys!

- Andy
 
you reduce the cooling capability, but black paint is usually not very conductive, totally not so for the gold and silver, chrome, which could have reeked major havoc.
it was a dum thing to do, and depending on the thickness on some of the very nessisary heat removal parts, it could effect the life of the supply.

i would not plug it in untill all the solvent/wet was cleared, the most critical areas for possible conduction would be on the AC side, where it is unsheilded, and non enameled, which would not be large areas to clear. The carbon in the black paint could potentially make small arcing, if you get tiny arcing, then it makes carbon paths, the carbon paths will make better connections, and then that will blow up and ketch fire :) but there would have to be enough voltage and places it wanted to go.

ex: any sheilded wiring, is still electrically insulated, so nothing can effect stuff like painted covered wires.
any conductor that the paint does not form a PATH to the other high voltage conductor.
the closer an AC connection point was to the other AC or Ground connection point , WITH the added paint.
any area that you Do NOT see, that might have drippings or wet solvent areas , not yet dried fully.


that is what spews out of my brain, scrape or solvent it off the few higher voltage AC exposed areas, where a path to the other pole or ground might be created, wait till it is fully dry/cured, stick it outside, and turn it on :) then do the turn it on for real trick outside of the computer, measure the voltages

that would just leave various areas across the high amp resisters, depending on how hot they got, they could carbonise the paint, and change the ammount of resistance through them Tiny if at all. and the smell of any high heat areas burning off the paint.
i would certannly continue with it, depending on how overboard i had gone with the paint coverage. but then again, look at my nic :)

who is gonna be looking in your Psu that you would need to go to such lenghts for ?
.
 
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Oh no one will see that stuff, I didn't paint any of the inside on purpose, I know no one will see THAT stuff. I just didn't really cover up anything electrical inside with tape or anything, so while I was painting the casing it painted through some of the vents, and some of the edges of the circuit board holding the electronics. It definitely got on some of the connections. I was planning down the road to try a window kit. I wanted anything silver to be black to match the inside.

I'm not huge into the electrical side to be able to pin point any specifics other than some of the capacitors. But I will take your advice Im going to see where I can put some acetone on with a q-tip or dry cloth and wipe off, other than that I'll bust out my multi meter (if the supply doesn't blow) and see from the end points if all is well..

Thanks dude!
 
. . . . I just didn't really cover up anything electrical inside with tape or anything, . . .

figured that you were just referring to a bit of "overspray" ,which shouldnt take to long to "perfect" and insure that it will still be safe and operational
 
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