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Looking for advice on MSI 880GM-E43

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Miro87043

Registered
Joined
Jan 5, 2011
Location
Twin Cities
I just built my first computer and have been reading forums and how tos on overclocking for the last 3 weeks and good week of that was spent overclocking my new rig:

Athlon II X4 640 3.0Ghz @ 3.33Ghz (15X222)
Scythe Big Shuriken SCBSK-1000 120mm CPU Cooler
MSI 880GM-E43
GeIL Value PLUS 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 1600
Windows 7 64bit
Antec NSK2480 Micro ATX/HTPC Case w/ 380W PSU
SAPPHIRE 100289L HD 5670 1GB R

The only stable configuration I've found is to raise the FSB to 222 while keeping memory below 1600 and HT below 2000. When I try to increase FSB more, I am unable to run prime95 for more than 20 minutes or so. I've tried to slowly increase the appropriate voltages (CPU, CPU-NB, CPU VDD, CPU-NB VDD, and DRAM) with no success. I also tried loosening the timings on my RAM and decreasing RAM speed with no improvement.

Here is another thread regarding same mobo and CPU with similar results.
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=659393&highlight=880gm-e43

I'm wondering if I'm limited by my mobo because it seems others have been able to increase my CPU model to 3.6 by increasing voltage.
Are there others using this mobo that have some insight?

Thanks
 
What are you load core temps like at that speed? Download and run OCCT or Prime95+CoreTemp for 5-10 minutes and check the temp toward the end of the run but while the stress test is still running. That's your load core temp.

It's very possible you're reaching the limits of your power supply. If that were a Corsair or Seasonic 380W PSU I wouldn't worry about it but from the description yours came with the case so who knows what you have in there? 380W would be pushing even the best PSU's.
 
At 3.3Ghz my load core temp tops out at 50 C. I was also concerned about having enough power from my PSU. It's an Antec PSU and when I use Antec's wattage calculator (http://www.antec.outervision.com/), which includes a calculation for overclocking it says my watt usage is 300. This obviously doesn't make it so, but that was my justification.
Does this add up to you?

Before a new power supply I had thought of getting a different mobo, perhaps:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128445
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131402R
as ASUS and Gigabyte seem to be the overclocking boards of choice around here.

Any other insights?

On another note, can you direct me on adding a sig to my posts. I have the required 3 posts but I can't seem to find that option.

Thanks!
 
If you have the required post count then you should be able to find an "Edit my Signature" option in your user CP.

I found that the case should come with an Antec EarthWatts 380W PSU which uses Seasonic as OEM, if that is the PSU you have, I have doubts it's the PSU that's causing the problems. Seasonic is a good OEM and Antec is a good PSU manufacturer so I do believe that the unit can deliver continous 380W as advertised, which is more than you realistically are drawing.

I'd try changing the MB for something better. The Asus board that you linked is ATX, so it won't fit your case though.

If that doesn't help, well, then change the PSU I guess... you'll still have a better MB in the end.
 
At 3.3Ghz my load core temp tops out at 50 C. I was also concerned about having enough power from my PSU. It's an Antec PSU and when I use Antec's wattage calculator (http://www.antec.outervision.com/), which includes a calculation for overclocking it says my watt usage is 300. This obviously doesn't make it so, but that was my justification.
Does this add up to you?

Before a new power supply I had thought of getting a different mobo, perhaps:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128445
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131402R
as ASUS and Gigabyte seem to be the overclocking boards of choice around here.

Any other insights?

On another note, can you direct me on adding a sig to my posts. I have the required 3 posts but I can't seem to find that option.

Thanks!
At a load core temp of 50 you're getting a little warm but most Athlons will overclock into the mid-50's.

The power supply issue is up to you. Some Antec units are good quality, others not so much. Look at other overclocked Athlons to see what those people have for a PSU. While I agree you probably don't need the Corsair 650 Watt PSU that Firedogg (the guy in your link) is running I still think your PSU isn't enough. Can I say that with 100% certainty? No.

The ASUS M4A79XTD seems to have been a good board for the people that bought them, though I can't say you will be able to overclock any higher with either of those other boards.

Other insights? That's hard to tell without knowing exactly what you're running. Can you post a screen shot of CPU-Z's CPU, Memory, and SPD tabs while P95 or OCCT is running? It would also be helpful to know what values for CPU VDD, cpuNB VID, cpuNB VDD, and RAM voltage are set in BIOS. Unfortunately, there isn't a program for reading all of those values. :(

On another note, can you direct me on adding a sig to my posts. I have the required 3 posts but I can't seem to find that option.
If you look at the right side of the gray bar near the top of this page there is a "quick links" drop down. Under "User Control Panel" you should find "Edit Signature". :)
 
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Other insights? That's hard to tell without knowing exactly what you're running. Can you post a screen shot of CPU-Z's CPU, Memory, and SPD tabs while P95 or OCCT is running? It would also be helpful to know what values for CPU VDD, cpuNB VID, cpuNB VDD, and RAM voltage are set in BIOS. Unfortunately, there isn't a program for reading all of those values. :(

Okay, so I started over and have gotten to 3.44 so far and prime95 has been running for 30+ minutes.

Voltages are:
CPU VDD-auto
CPU NB VDD-auto
CPU-1.435
CPU NB-1.180
DRAM-1.67

I haven't read much up on the VDD voltages. When I adjust the CPU VDD the CPU VID changes at the same time.

I also see that my RAM timings are tighter than the SPD specifies, but I left everything stock except and upped my RAM multiplier so it was at 800MHz (1600MHz), since it was sold as 1600 ram, and ran prime95 all night without a hitch.
 

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I'd turn the RAM down another notch until you're done with the CPU overclock - no reason to complicate things yet. ;)

Next you might try dropping the cpuNB speed down to 9X to see if that will let the CPU go higher.
 
I did it!! :clap: I just ran prime95 for an hour with my CPU clocked at 3.59
It was mostly just a matter of upping CPU voltage and reading all the great advice on the forums here!
What will I do now with all this added power, you ask?
It's an HTPC, so nothing! But I did already order a new motherboard, so I'll start a new thread when I'm ready to do it all over again. :rock:
 

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What's your core voltage set to in bios now? It's a little on the high side for my comfort zone under load in your pics at 1.528. I hope you're not running that much 24/7.
 
What's your core voltage set to in bios now? It's a little on the high side for my comfort zone under load in your pics at 1.528. I hope you're not running that much 24/7.

I'm currently at 1.535 in BIOS, which is what my CPU required to remain stable. Do you think this voltage will shorten my CPU's life even if I keep the temperature down?
 
Okay,
Gimee some more explanation. I'm new to this and it would me to understand this better.

I'm hearing that the voltage and temps are to high. What are the implications of one or both of these. Is 1.535 volts okay if I am able to keep my CPU at 50, or should I not run 1.535 volts at all and why not?

I greatly appreciate any advice I can get. :)
 
If your temps were in the mid-40's the voltage wouldn't bother me. If the voltage was at 1.50v the temp wouldn't bother me. Voltage and temps are too high taken together, IMO - at least for everyday use.
 
That makes sense.
So the best solution would be better cooling, if I want a stable 3.59, right?
Since I can't keep it stable with out a voltage of 1.535.
I already ordered a PWM case fan, cause the ones I have are adjusted by a switch, which I end up leaving on low or medium because I like the computer to be quite unless under load.
I've also been looking at other coolers. The Scythe Big Shuriken works significantly better than the stock cooler but apparently isn't enough.
My biggest problem with finding a cooler is I want one that is quiet, at least most the time, and it needs to be low profile (about 100mm or less tall) because of my case.
The only other option I've found is the ZALMAN CNPS 7500
Anybody have experience with this cooler or others that may fit my needs?

Thanks for the responses
 
Personally, I'm not comfortable with vcore exceeding 1.5 24/7 regardless of the temp. But have you considered the fact that with better cooling your temps would go down and electrical resistance along with it. The higher the electrical resistance, the more vcore you need to overcome it. So lower temps mean lower resistance and lower resistance could mean you won't need as many volts to keep it stable. That micro case you are using, however, will not let you install the best air coolers. The best ones are the tower style with 120mm fans. They all require a case that is at least 8" wide (tower style case) or tall (desktop style case) measured from outside to outside (or top to bottom on a desktop style case) of the case panels.
 
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Or, for about the same amount of money as the Corsair H50 get an Antec 300 case and a Coolermaster hyper 212 plus. Those all-in-one budget water cooling systems just don't quite cool as well as the best 120mm fan-base air coolers.
 
Or, for about the same amount of money as the Corsair H50 get an Antec 300 case and a Coolermaster hyper 212 plus. Those all-in-one budget water cooling systems just don't quite cool as well as the best 120mm fan-base air coolers.
Not as well as the best but as good as the Hyper 212+ or Sunbeam CCT 120mm I'd bet - and certainly much better than any of the other heatsink options for his case.


I suggested the Corsair because many people don't want the bigger case. For people with small cases the H50 is the best choice assuming there's a 120mm fan in the case.
 
Personally, I'm not comfortable with vcore exceeding 1.5 24/7 regardless of the temp. But have you considered the fact that with better cooling your temps would go down and electrical resistance along with it. The higher the electrical resistance, the more vcore you need to overcome it. So lower temps mean lower resistance and lower resistance could mean you won't need as many volts to keep it stable. That micro case you are using, however, will not let you install the best air coolers. The best ones are the tower style with 120mm fans. They all require a case that is at least 8" wide (tower style case) or tall (desktop style case) measured from outside to outside (or top to bottom on a desktop style case) of the case panels.

Upon reading this thread I was thinking the same thing. Thanks for confirming my suspicions.

As for the person who started the thread, I might recommend getting a bigger case if you can, as it would improve your cooling abilities/options and you may be able to then overclock at the same speed but at lower voltages and lower temps should you then upgrade your CPU cooling and case cooling.
 
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