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running Tualatin on CuMine MB w/o Powerleap

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Ruiner said:
If it works (and I can get to at least 1.4Ghz with it), I've gotten 75-80% of the performance of an xp1700/NW 2.0a on the cheap.


75-80% of the NUMBER maybe, but I doubt 75-80% of the actual system performance. I could be wrong though.
 
Ruiner said:
godfodda,

http://www.xbitlabs.com/cpu/celeron1a-oc/

It is pretty surprising how well the Celeratin supports the Ti500 at real resolutions. Of course it gets clobbered at low res, but who plays at 6x4 anymore.

I don't game, so that part of it makes no sense to me. :rolleyes: But that was a very nice link! The bench numbers look much better than I had expected. Unless someone can point me to another site that shows differently, I may have to eat my words. :D
 
I tried this hack on my 1.1A tually last night. Instead of using nail polish or wire wrap insulation to isolate the pins AN3 (DYN_OE), AJ3 (Reset#2), AK4 (VttPWRGD), I just removed them with needle nose pliers (this 1.1A was not a good OC'er so I did not care too much if the mod did not work and it killed the chip). Then I put the CPU into an 815E board that does not support tuallys (AZZA 815EP). This board works fine with P!!! coppermines but I could never get it to post/boot with the tually celertins. Also had to use the wire trick on the socket to pull VID25mV low (wired it to VSS, defaults to 1.45V).
No luck getting the tually 1.1A to work in the AZZA board. No post/boot, think the problem is with the Bios. But get this: when I put the CPU back into my ST6 board the thing still works! Booted right and loaded Win2K just like it did before. I was not expecting that, thought it would be history after losing those 3 pins. I guess they are not too critical, at least not in the ST6. Actually I was kind of hoping it would be toast so I could make another keychain out of it and order a PIII-S 1.40. Guess I will hang onto this 1.1A a little longer and wait for the PIII-S 1.53 instead.
 
MaxFSB said:
I tried this hack on my 1.1A tually last night. Instead of using nail polish or wire wrap insulation to isolate the pins AN3 (DYN_OE), AJ3 (Reset#2), AK4 (VttPWRGD), I just removed them with needle nose pliers (this 1.1A was not a good OC'er so I did not care too much if the mod did not work and it killed the chip). Then I put the CPU into an 815E board that does not support tuallys (AZZA 815EP). This board works fine with P!!! coppermines but I could never get it to post/boot with the tually celertins. Also had to use the wire trick on the socket to pull VID25mV low (wired it to VSS, defaults to 1.45V).
No luck getting the tually 1.1A to work in the AZZA board. No post/boot, think the problem is with the Bios. But get this: when I put the CPU back into my ST6 board the thing still works! Booted right and loaded Win2K just like it did before. I was not expecting that, thought it would be history after losing those 3 pins. I guess they are not too critical, at least not in the ST6. Actually I was kind of hoping it would be toast so I could make another keychain out of it and order a PIII-S 1.40. Guess I will hang onto this 1.1A a little longer and wait for the PIII-S 1.53 instead.

You were supposed to short two other pins.
 
ol' man said:


You were supposed to short two other pins.


"Also had to use the wire trick on the socket to pull VID25mV low (wired it to VSS, defaults to 1.45V). "

ol'man, are you referring to these?
 
No it was another pin also!

Don't cut the pins off. I used IDE cable and pulled out the wire and it slipped over the pin just fine. Maybe it is better than nail polish. Youwould have to reem out the hole on socket though a little bit.
 
their latest approach:

(1) use masking tape seal up AN3¡BAJ3¡BAK4 to avoid contacting socket.
(2) use fine cooper wire to connect vid4 and vid0

no need to modify mainboard
 
MaxFSB said:
I tried this hack on my 1.1A tually last night. Instead of using nail polish or wire wrap insulation to isolate the pins AN3 (DYN_OE), AJ3 (Reset#2), AK4 (VttPWRGD), I just removed them with needle nose pliers (this 1.1A was not a good OC'er so I did not care too much if the mod did not work and it killed the chip). Then I put the CPU into an 815E board that does not support tuallys (AZZA 815EP). This board works fine with P!!! coppermines but I could never get it to post/boot with the tually celertins. Also had to use the wire trick on the socket to pull VID25mV low (wired it to VSS, defaults to 1.45V).
No luck getting the tually 1.1A to work in the AZZA board. No post/boot, think the problem is with the Bios. But get this: when I put the CPU back into my ST6 board the thing still works! Booted right and loaded Win2K just like it did before. I was not expecting that, thought it would be history after losing those 3 pins. I guess they are not too critical, at least not in the ST6. Actually I was kind of hoping it would be toast so I could make another keychain out of it and order a PIII-S 1.40. Guess I will hang onto this 1.1A a little longer and wait for the PIII-S 1.53 instead.


So did you do this??????

from soil above
it would be safer for CuMine MB using manual jumper setting the Vcore, if the CPU is to be permanently modified that would mean chopping AN3 and AJ3 off, use a fine wire to connect AK4 and AK26, chop off the excess part of AK4 and use a dot of non-conductive expoxy to seal the AK4 connection

From what you say it seems you did not!
 
If one would have read through all of what soil said above you would have found that this is what you need to do. The red pins are disabled and the blue pin and blue line need to be connected to the base of the disabled AK4 pin. Hopefully the guy that ripped out the pins can salvage what he did. It may be better to pull the AK4 pin(from the slocket or mobo not from the CPU) and run a line to the ak26 pin on the back side of the slocket or mobo. Time will tell. I think this works though and is very big news. Man that ol' BX mobo just keeps hanging on:D

Personally I think any mods should be done as to keep the pin configuration intact. Any disabling of pins should be done on the slocket.
 
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ol' man said:
No it was another pin also!

Don't cut the pins off. I used IDE cable and pulled out the wire and it slipped over the pin just fine. Maybe it is better than nail polish. Youwould have to reem out the hole on socket though a little bit.
That is a very good method for covering CPU pins when needed! Thanks Ol' man. But I am afraid that even if I manage to squeeze the pin into socket's hole, it might get crashed while trying to lock the socket? Do you think that could happen?

I am going to do a 1.8V voltage mod for my C1.2G see if I can take its speed higher.
 
JBatOC said:

That is a very good method for covering CPU pins when needed! Thanks Ol' man. But I am afraid that even if I manage to squeeze the pin into socket's hole, it might get crashed while trying to lock the socket? Do you think that could happen?

I am going to do a 1.8V voltage mod for my C1.2G see if I can take its speed higher.

Sometimes 1.8v is not needed. i am even running my chip @ 1.77GHz and I need only 1.725~1.75v. If I run it at 1.8v it will crash!

As for crashing or crushing something, some sockets have a pin design so it wraps the pin in the socket and others have the pins touching small spring plates at the bottom of the socket. I know my ST6 is the wrap kind so the method that I spke of to disable the pins would work better. If you have the plate type you will want to seal up the very bottom of the pin. In fact on some mobo's or slockets that may be all you need to do. It may even be better to simply reem out the holes on the socket and disable them by pushing down the pin with a piece of plastic or something if that is the case. There are many ways this can be achieved. Thing I like about this is that it may allow higher OC's since you can up the vcore to 2v if needed:D
 
ol man,
why would you have to jump AK4 to AK26?
To set the new default voltage?
 
ol' man said:


Sometimes 1.8v is not needed. i am even running my chip @ 1.77GHz and I need only 1.725~1.75v. If I run it at 1.8v it will crash!

As for crashing or crushing something, some sockets have a pin design so it wraps the pin in the socket and others have the pins touching small spring plates at the bottom of the socket. I know my ST6 is the wrap kind so the method that I spke of to disable the pins would work better. If you have the plate type you will want to seal up the very bottom of the pin. In fact on some mobo's or slockets that may be all you need to do. It may even be better to simply reem out the holes on the socket and disable them by pushing down the pin with a piece of plastic or something if that is the case. There are many ways this can be achieved. Thing I like about this is that it may allow higher OC's since you can up the vcore to 2v if needed:D
Thanks for your advice Ol' man.
I am considering 1.8v because I see little to do to achieve that. Not sure how to do 1.725 or 1.75, could you enlighten me? Another reason is that I think it's more likely to get me to 124 or even 133MHz, currently with 1.65V my chip can only do 112MHz stable...
 
JBatOC said:

Thanks for your advice Ol' man.
I am considering 1.8v because I see little to do to achieve that. Not sure how to do 1.725 or 1.75, could you enlighten me? Another reason is that I think it's more likely to get me to 124 or even 133MHz, currently with 1.65V my chip can only do 112MHz stable...

It sounds to me like you are not actually getting 1.65v. You should be able to do more hurtz with less than that.
 
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