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running Tualatin on CuMine MB w/o Powerleap

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after taking away the socket cover don't use a drill..

(what a dirty job!:eek: )

I find better taking away the connections using a sting

and bending them for seceral times...it's a long job

but the result is very nice..

another guy in a italian forum siply desoldered the connectiond

putting a soldier behinf the slocket on the interested contact

ant pulling the little clips away from the socket tracks...

(forgive my awful english)

he write the work is reversible.....
 
sammy said:
Just a quick happy note - I've been following this and other threads - was going to try catcha22's method when I find my magnifying eyeglasses so I could see these little connections, but when I saw what chosen did, I thought I's try it.

Have a BE6-2 and Abit slotket 3, so started taking off the cover, not easy like and Asus, cracked part of it, then saw how littly the damn connections are, and decided to just drill them. All in all it was quick and dirty and sloppy job and figured if it didn't work it could be because of that.
Used a 1/16" drill, smaller would have been better, but couldn't find that either.

Took a celatin 1.0A out of my Tusi-m where it was running at 133 @1.66v with the vid mod.
Took my celeron 2/1.0G Costa Rica running at 133, 1.85v out of my BE6-2.
One thing I noticed when I took off the retail heatsink, was it showed the cpu slug wasn't flat - worn spots on the edges. Used generic paste, quick and sloppy, stuck the critter in my BE6-2.
Soft menu showed 2.3v but had trouble believing that - slotket jumpers were set to default.
Set the voltage to 1.8 and FSB to 100, to see if it was going to work - damned if it didn't.
Seems to be stable at 127FSB and either 1.66 or 1.9v, won't go higher.
Going to remove slug and do a nice job with better heatsink but will have to wait awhile.
Also going to try this on a generic coppermine slotket, but I'm going to put the drill bit in a visegrip for better control in removint the slotket pin connections.

I love all you guys that are willing to sacrifice your stuff so us semi-chickens can get excited trying it!
Thanks for the thrills.



Here is a vcore sheet for the cumine.

voltage1.jpg


I would be careful, I have fried a cel-t with high vcore set to 1.87v and the HS not touching the IHSless core. It fried in about .25 seconds. I advise you to make sure what your vcore is before removing the IHS. The IHS protects against too high of temps and gives the core a chance to utilize the automatic shutdown feature.
 
those of you having trouble getting fsb over 127-131

there were several batches of abit slotket !!!'s with stability issues somewhere over 125. I know, I have an abit slotket !!! that won't do 133 with my P3 1000EB (that's right, even without an overclock going on, it can't hack it).

Anybody tried with a different slotket? When I got an Iwill Slotket II, I was able to hit 150...a better slotket might help with these tualatins
 
Ditto on the Abit slotket issue. Mine has misbehaved for a while, but I don't know what other models have so many jumpers.
I wonder if it's the slotket or the Via chipset that kept me in safe mode only.
 
I have an abit slotket III, an Iwill Slotket II, and an Asus s370...

they all have voltage, busspeed, and cpu type (ppga/fcpga) jumpers.

The Iwill is the most stable, with the Asus as a near second YMMV
 
thanks for the tip, ol'man. im just about to do that ak4 to ak26 connection...
actually i have two projects. seeing as the abit slotketIII has been reported to be unstable past 127MHz FSB, ill switch to my Iwill Slocket II (yep, i have both! :) )
Ill be modding the Iwill with the 3 gored slocket holes for now. I wont be connecting the two aforementioned pins yet, , to see if this stability issue is truly isolated only to the abit slocket, as Xaero_toast and Ruiner said.

here is another way of making the 3 holes bigger so the 3 sleeved pins will fit: USE AN X-ACTO KNIFE. After taking off the slocket top, simply insert the tip of the small exacto blade in the hole and start twisting the knife. This causes the hole to get carved out, and eventually gets big enough for the thick pins to enter. ill post a pic of it as soon as i snap a shot.

Also another way to make the ak4 to ak26 connection is to solder the pins ON THE BACK. Its already been mentioned here, but ill take it a bit further, taking again from ol'man's tip. I used the same IDE wire, cut it to about 2 inches in length, and instead of removing the thin wires from it, i just stripped a small portion on both ends exposing the wires. I then tinned both ends, so whenn i solder it on the back of the slocket it will easily stick. Also this prevents overheating, as it may damage the plastic on the slocket by melting it if youre not careful. (heh, thats funny - worrying about damaging the slocket, when the whole procedure CAN damage the chip and mobo for using an out of spec chip! heh heh! so ironic...;) )
ill post pics of these as soon as i get back.
 
Ok guys,
I'm almost feeling comfortable enough for something like this, but I am still confused.

I have an Abit BH6 1.1+MSI slotket 2.3 master
The ONLY thing I know to do so far (on my MSI slotket 2.3) is to nailpolish the following pins:

"AN3", " AJ3" and " AK4 ".

This is the first step, and probably the only one that I can do easily (if I can get nail polish ON the pins in the first place !!).
What is the best way to get the nail polish on these pins, without getting any on the other pins? (remember, I have never SEEN anyone do this in person, of course so I don't even really know the motions....) And is this the correct way to insulate the pins?
I saw some people talking about IDE cable plastic... why is this better instead of nail polish? (I prefer the nail polish trick for now, at least).

The 2nd thing I need to do apparently, is wire AM34 to AK36.
What does this do ? Is it necessary, and what will happen if this is NOT done? Also, what if the wire happens to touch ANY OF THE OTHER pins around this one? won't this short the chip?

The THIRD thing I apparently need to do is wire AK 4 to AK26
What will happen if I do *NOT* do this step? What does this step do, anyway? What is the best way to do this, WITHOUT shorting something? That's a lot of pins that must be crossed....it looks like something can go wrong VERY Easily !

Do I have to risk removing the IHS ? (I really don't want to as I've never done it before).


I also saw another way listed: which might be simpler, AND it gives 1.65v default voltage to the chip, which is good for overclocking :)

this one involves the insulation of the 3 above pins (AJ3, AN3, AK4), and then wiring the following 4 pins together: AM34, AL35, AK36, and AL37), without doing the AK4 to AK26 long wire. Is this step reliable?
What is the best way to wrap the wires? and again, is there any danger of the wires moving and short circuiting the wrong pins after putting the chip inside the slotket ?

Also, does slotket OR BIOS voltage adjustment do absolutely **NOTHING** at all after this mod?

Again, thanks for any help. Remember, I am a newbie to this: i've NEVER done anything like this before, but am almost feeling comfortable enough to do it.

Hope you can read this carefully and answer carefully for me, one step at a time :)
 
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ak4 to ak26
Some people need it, some do not...
I am going to try without.... (and if i am unstable, i guess i will have to try with)

as for AM34 to AK36....
i would not recomend that.
that is going to drop your voltage down from 1.475 to 1.45
1.475 is my 1.1's defualt voltage)

well thats what page 21 says of intels data sheet
ftp://download.intel.com/design/celeron/datashts/29859602.pdf
(page 61 for pinouts)

I am going to connect VID2 (AL 37) and VID25mV (AK 36) to VSS (AM 34) to give myself a 1.6V default Vcore.
VID 1 AND VID 0 (AM 36 and Al 35) dont need to be connect manualy as they are connected internaly in the packaging.

As for my IHS, well i would make sure the CPU works before you deal with that.... And once you hvae it working on your board, then think about removing it (well thats what I am going to do)

As far as the BIOS able to change the voltage... I think it should be able to still... As i have done voltage hacks on coppermines and the bIOS still lets me select the voltage i want.
 
Well, at 127MHz FSB the Iwill slocket IS MORE STABLE. Ive benchmarked using sandra, and also played swf, avi, divx and high bitrate mpeg files, and encoded a couple of songs to mp3 using EAC and lame3.91, at one point all at the same time, AND NO STALLS AND LOCKUPS! wow....
i guess its the oversized capacitors in the Iwill slocket that makes it so stable compared to the Abit slocket. And i havent connected the AK4 pin to AK26 yet (i feel at this point i wont need it on the Iwill slocket, but defintely will try it on the Abit.) here are pics of what ive done so far.

as i mentioned earlier, here are some of the things i did to make it easier. first was using the IDE cable wire wrap as a sleeve.
sleeve1.jpg

sleeve2.jpg


to make it easier to slide the wrap over the pin, you may want to use a 40wire IDE ribbon, instead of the 80wire i used (its a beotch to fit!). Or if you want, you can "pre-widen" the hole with a pin to fit it nicely over the pin (what i used with the switch to the iwill slocket).
 
after cutting the sleeve to a nice height, i then widened the holes where the disabled pins are going to fit in, using an X-ACTO KNIFE. What i did was to simply put the tip over the designated holes, and started twisting the knife. This carves out the walls in the holes, creating a wider area for the sleeved pins to fit in.

xacto1.jpg


bore2.jpg
 
lastly, which i havent done fully yet, was to connect the AK4 pin to AK26. This is teh pre-connection pic - i havent soldered it on yet.

connect1.jpg


as you can see, i used again the IDE cable wire, but this time i just stripped the ends to expose the wire, and then tinned it to make it solder on the pins more easily.

tin1.jpg


i hope this helps others in getting their chips to work. I know im having LOTS of fun doing this! :p
 
chosenfool said:
lastly, which i havent done fully yet, was to connect the AK4 pin to AK26. This is teh pre-connection pic - i havent soldered it on yet.

connect1.jpg


as you can see, i used again the IDE cable wire, but this time i just stripped the ends to expose the wire, and then tinned it to make it solder on the pins more easily.

tin1.jpg


i hope this helps others in getting their chips to work. I know im having LOTS of fun doing this! :p

your method to connect ak4 to ak26 is wrong,it will cause pc can't boot,the right one is the ak26(pwrgood signal) must be send to the pin of ak4 not ak4's solder and the same time the ak4 must be insulation,do you understand my meaning,sorry for my poor english.
 
the ak4's solder is connect to ground in old mobo,you do that,cause the ak26(pwrgood signal) also be connect to ground,the ak26 need logic 1 to enable and tell pc power good.
 
ebc said:


your method to connect ak4 to ak26 is wrong,it will cause pc can't boot,the right one is the ak26(pwrgood signal) must be send to the pin of ak4 not ak4's solder and the same time the ak4 must be insulation,do you understand my meaning,sorry for my poor english.

i think i undestand what you mean, but dont worry, i havent soldered anything yet ;).

i only placed the stripped wire on the top of the back of the slocket as a "pre-connection" pic, to show my plan. Its a good thing that you caught it, ebc - THANKS! if you havent pointed that out i may have just gone and did it wrong. ill check back as soon as im done.

But for now, my next move is to see how far up past 127MHz the chip can go with the Iwill slocket.
:D man, this is FUN! (and i am suck a geek!:p )
 
1567MHz, 130MHz [email protected]

1567mbm.jpg


1567cpuid.jpg


1567sandra.jpg


man, its rock-solid STABLE.

i ran the usual real-life tests (mp3 encoding, high bitrate divx/avi/mpeg playback, partial divx/avi encoding) and its still ticking! i also ran the benchmark in sandra, and ill post it after this. The real test is if it can run thru 3dmark2001SE completely. Im not gonna do that yet, since i really dont game that much anymore, plus i dont have it installed yet (yep, that would help :p)
 
Nice scores.

So ALL you've done is simply insulate those 3 pins for the first step, and set the default voltage on your slotket to 1.6v --this is the biggie, otherwise it will be 2.1v, (or whatever) and **that's it **? no wire wraps or anything?

Also, what about the nail polish trick to insulate? is that not recommended or something?
 
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Falkentyne said:
Nice scores.

So ALL you've done is simply insulate those 3 pins for the first step, and set the default voltage on your slotket to 1.6v --this is the biggie, otherwise it will be 2.1v, (or whatever) and **that's it **? no wire wraps or anything?

Also, what about the nail polish trick to insulate? is that not recommended or something?

yep, just insulate the 3 pins. then once it boots, adjust the voltage thru the BIOS, that is, IF YOU HAVE A SLOCKET WITH ADJUSTABLE VOLTAGE. I havent gotten this to work on a generic FCPGA adapter (i have 4 adapters, 1 IWill, 1 Abit, and 2 generic adapters).

as far as connecting the AK4 and the AK26 pins, what i did was tofirst take the sleeve of AK4, and again use a 1 1/2 inch IDE cable wire, strip the ends to expose the wire, and "round" the ends around a bobby pin. this creates a round hole to easily fit over the processor pins. I then "lassoed' over the AK4 pin, then inserted back the sleeve, then ran the wire across to AK26, and then lasso it over the pin also. Doing this with an insulated wire with just the ends stripped, it helps in insulating against other pins that may come in contact with the wire. Also, this is one way i avoided having to use nail polish.

This works really well, as im right now typing this at 130MHz FSB (1570MHz) on the ABIT SLOCKET, with one other interesting adjustment - the "in queue depth" is now set at 8, instead of 1. This makes one HELLUVA speed boost, as i couldnt open fast folders with a lot of files in it before when it was set to 1, and boot up time is maybe 4-6 seconds faster with setting at 8. Pretty much what belinassu encountered before he did the connection trick.

the only thing is that since i didnt use any conductive pen like he did, or use one thin strand of wire and used nail polish for insulation, the processor is raised about the thickness of the wire. Its really not an issue for me, as all i did was to put another wire with the same thickness on the opposite side of the slocket to balance the height. I then locked the slocket in place, and fired it up.
 
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