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FEATURED Beginners: How to set your 25/6/700K to 4.5Ghz

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I was able to figure out everything that needed to be changed in the BIOS settings on my board and this is what the results are after running Prime 95's Blend Mode after 4 hours. It looks a lot better than the 100 C I saw last time.


Hopefully that pic will work, that's from twitter..
 
A good note to keep in mind- defective boards happen. One member was getting 100C on a 2500K

2_OC_4Hrs.png

Vcore has spiked to 2.7v!!!!!. That will murder the CPU. This is why we monitor. Defective motherboard that must be returned and I'd return the likely damaged CPU as well.
If this happens to you, return immediately. Check the RAM voltage as well to make sure that doesn't need to go back too.
 
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2.7vcore strikes me as most likely being a false reading rather than a real defect, that is high enough that OVP and OCP should have been triggered, and I really can't see the CPU living at that kind of voltage.

Regardless, it's a sign that something is wrong!
 
Well shoot..
Would there be anything I should check into in the BIOS that might allow it to go to 2.5+VCore?..

Man.. I need to see if I can backup my HDD(only 100GB is used atm) incase I need to bring the mobo back or something..just have small storage HDD's around here tho..
 
2.7vcore strikes me as most likely being a false reading rather than a real defect, that is high enough that OVP and OCP should have been triggered, and I really can't see the CPU living at that kind of voltage.

Regardless, it's a sign that something is wrong!

I agree (previously secretly) but even if equipment is 4% defective lets not confuse the new member and get that thing and its friends swapped :), you know? Good to have the info out though. I just didn't want to confuse him further. Info overloads don't help anybody. Also lets not forget at one point he did get 100 degrees which does indicate he may well have hit well over 2 volts as the screenie says. 2+2=4 quite often :D.

incase I need to bring the mobo back or something..just have small storage HDD's around here tho..

Exchange it for one of the other boards we discussed dude. Just do it. CPU too. They'll do it tell them what happened and your concerns and that the PC is important to you and your $ is intended for 100% correctly working equipment only :). Politely. But exchange it. Period. No if. :)

Back up whatever you need to if you feel comfortable turning on the BBQ before exchanging but I wouldn't Who knows what else its doing screwy. I'd take the HDD out into another PC, back it up onto a seperate drive there... or something like that. Or using a $10 external dock. I would not fire up this 2500 system again until you swap parts.
 
Heh, yeah I do no know what OVP and OCP stand for, but that's ok. I will see if I can bring the computer in to have the people at least run some diagnostics or something..

Thank you very much people for your info and advice!!
Especially you OCNoob! You have stayed with me this whole time! Even when I was incompetent..
 
Well I set the BIOS to the optimized defaults, and the CPU VCore is 1.04V now, and temps seem fine..It might've been my screwing up the Voltage settings.
But I will take it in nonetheless because it did have the high VCore and it could've messed some things up..
 
Dude. Box. Microcenter. please. Big hug. It's so so so defective.
ie is it damaging your RAM? your drives? I don't know. Something is wrong so turn it off and disassemble its the only logical approach here my friend.

Take that 1/2 hour in store and get properly functioning parts that don't give you almost 3v vcore and scare the junk out of you or 100c on a core. Please.

Everyone gets a or many wonky or just plain D O A parts throughout their PC building years. It happens. This is one of those. No big deal. You have the receipt, it's not working, you get a new one. Swap that cpu and I'd do the RAM too. They'll understand I'm sure. Techies like service desk people seem to understand at places like that. Tell them all your voltages were crazy high and your temps were insane and you think it damaged all this stuff and you want new ones.

I also noticed your CPU pulled 170W at one point. Go look. Thats like... nuts. It's a 95W CPU. Could pull maybe 120W in IBT overclocked to 4.5 MAYBE. 170?
Methinks your cpu is crispy and crunchy on the inside and well toasted mate.
 
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I have an Asus Z68 Deluxe board and it has a switch on the board that is suppose to give a 4.5GHZ over clock off the bat without doing anything else. Is there a difference with manually overclocking like your doing?
 
I have an Asus Z68 Deluxe board and it has a switch on the board that is suppose to give a 4.5GHZ over clock off the bat without doing anything else. Is there a difference with manually overclocking like your doing?
Auto overclocking, though it has gotten better, tends to over volt in favor of stability...you can run with less voltage.
 
Well OK.

Dude. Box. Microcenter. please. Big hug. It's so so so defective.
ie is it damaging your RAM? your drives? I don't know. Something is wrong so turn it off and disassemble its the only logical approach here my friend.

Take that 1/2 hour in store and get properly functioning parts that don't give you almost 3v vcore and scare the junk out of you or 100c on a core. Please.

Everyone gets a or many wonky or just plain D O A parts throughout their PC building years. It happens. This is one of those. No big deal. You have the receipt, it's not working, you get a new one. Swap that cpu and I'd do the RAM too. They'll understand I'm sure. Techies like service desk people seem to understand at places like that. Tell them all your voltages were crazy high and your temps were insane and you think it damaged all this stuff and you want new ones.

I also noticed your CPU pulled 170W at one point. Go look. Thats like... nuts. It's a 95W CPU. Could pull maybe 120W in IBT overclocked to 4.5 MAYBE. 170?
Methinks your cpu is crispy and crunchy on the inside and well toasted mate.

Haha, ok muchas gracias.
If it's been defective this while time, I wonder why there hasn't been any notifications or anything or warning from the computer.. Or that I didn't even catch the numbers being high.. Hard to tell what's what if you're not experienced. I just wanted to make sure if there was anything I could do or check again before having to bring it in. But yes. Something is wrong. lol
Well alright. I will bring in the board, cpu, and the memory in; i'm still within the 30 day window anyways. Thanks for clearing up some things with me.
Do you think it would have affected my TP-Link Wireless Adapter card also?
How hard is it to take the 212+ cpu cooler off of the processor(which I suppose that's still good)?
By the way, what board, cpu and memory do you have?
 
. Thanks for clearing up some things with me.
Do you think it would have affected my TP-Link Wireless Adapter card also?

Likely no

How hard is it to take the 212+ cpu cooler off of the processor(which I suppose that's still good)?

No, easy still good
For the next CPU clean the 212+ off with q tips coffee filters soaked in 99% isopropyl until they come away 100% clean then be really studious about your next TIM application. We always tell guys who had temperature problems to pay extra attention to that CPU cooler install and put just the right amount of TIM in there. Have you watched 'how thermal compound spreads' on youtube? I think you installed it fine and got a flake motherboard but lets cover all bases so next build works and you can just go play call of duty :D

By the way, what board, cpu and memory do you have?

Its in my sig"
2600K 4800Mhz
Maximus 4 Extreme
8GB Ripjaws 1600
150GB Raptor
120GB 510SSD
GTX 580
Xonar STX
Corsair 500R
Noctua NHD14
HX850 PSU
Various brands of fan.


It hasn't been telling you warnings for the same reason that your Sony Xplode deck doesn't tell you when your tire pops. They're not connected in that way. The bios and windows aren't really 'chatting' in that sense. Windows won't say 'hey buddy your voltage for X sucks did ya know?'

The likely reason is that SO many boards and cpus and kinds of RAM can run windows that to have a resource of what the avg's are for everyone and pop up little warnings would cost a lot to make, and annoy users.

Example- 1.5V is a HIGH voltage for a 2500K but for an AMD 955BE it's not that high. Meanwhile, on a Pentium 4, 1.5 is like STOCK. Go figure. So what's it gonna do figure out which you have and either warn you or not? It gets too complex thats why it isn't in there :). CPUs did once need 2V+ to run. Very long ago. Now you're more likely to get a pop and fizz at that voltage. Things have changed. At almost 3v... I mean... that's like sci fi. My guess is it only SPIKES to 2.7V here and there otherwise the CPU would have had a suicide run by now for sure. Regardless that is one wild defect.

Lovely outside for drive to Microcenter? Hmm? :)
 
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hmm first time overclocker here and I did all the settings you suggested except that cpu voltage is highlighted red when i go 1.3 and changes to purple when i change it down to 1.29. Im guessing that red means bad?
 
Says cpu manual voltage on the side, so I should just run it at 1.29 and see if it stabalizes?
 
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Says cpu manual voltage on the side, so I should just run it at 1.29 and see if it stabalizes?

Run it at what it stabilizes at buddy they're all different. :)
Your CPU will tell you what voltage it wants for X speed through testing as mentioned in the guide :). Once it won't pull, it needs more voltage. You lower until it flakes, then go back up a notch and make sure it's good and thats your lowest stable voltage :).
 
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So, After some extensive testing, I have determined that the lowest voltages I can run at with 100% stability @4.5 ghz is 1.285Vcore. Not too shabby, it is slightly lower than stock voltages...this means extended life XD.

As for my GTX 460, 860/1720/? is My limit. I haven't messed around with the memory clock much, as a 2 fps increase with a 8C increase at 70C (78C) Wasn't worth it. Furmark can bring her up to 85C, so I don't want to take that chance of exceeding 90C. Stock cooler/TIM, and a capped fan speed of 70%(nothing can fix except bios flash, and I don't need to really push it any higher) It is plenty fast enough. It performs well on vantage and 11. I'm only below the scores of Water cooled units(50 or so ratings a teir higher than I)
 
I have an Asus Z68 Deluxe board and it has a switch on the board that is suppose to give a 4.5GHZ over clock off the bat without doing anything else. Is there a difference with manually overclocking like your doing?

It will give you a really high voltage to keep the CPU alive. Basically it's 4.5Ghz for a low bin CPU they give you on auto. you CAN do this, then lower the voltage gradually. It will likely feed more voltage than needed. On most boards, this is what these modes do but I have surprisingly seen some that do the OC at a similar voltage to what you'd whittle it to with some elbow grease.

The main difference is that. Generally, auto OC gives a higher voltage than needed which makes more heat which (potantially/can/may) reduce life of X part (cpu).
But, on the upshot, with Sandybridge, auto OC almost always holds stable. Just too high voltage usually. Or rather 'higher than you actually needed in all likelihood'

Is this the P8Z68 deluxe or P8Z68V Deluxe btw? What voltage under load does HWMON give you with this auto OC. Also is it 4500 or like 4587? I don't like to move BCLK. Asus auto OC does.

Hope that answered your question.

My opinion, is that its so easy to do yourself by printing the 6 steps and spending 3 minutes in your bios, that why wouldn't ya? Auto OC does a similar thing and then you have to go back in and start lowering the Vcore on the cpu to tweak anyways. Zee guide works. I've not just done it once ;) or on just one cpu/board. Even if you auto OC you still have to run thru guide section 3, and its not any easier. You sound like you can do it manually brother.
 
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