FEATURED Beginners: How to set your 25/6/700K to 4.5Ghz

fmkenner · Dec 22, 2011

Theocnoob said:
It will give you a really high voltage to keep the CPU alive. Basically it's 4.5Ghz for a low bin CPU they give you on auto. you CAN do this, then lower the voltage gradually. It will likely feed more voltage than needed. On most boards, this is what these modes do but I have surprisingly seen some that do the OC at a similar voltage to what you'd whittle it to with some elbow grease.

The main difference is that. Generally, auto OC gives a higher voltage than needed which makes more heat which (potantially/can/may) reduce life of X part (cpu).
But, on the upshot, with Sandybridge, auto OC almost always holds stable. Just too high voltage usually. Or rather 'higher than you actually needed in all likelihood'

Is this the P8Z68 deluxe or P8Z68V Deluxe btw? What voltage under load does HWMON give you with this auto OC. Also is it 4500 or like 4587? I don't like to move BCLK. Asus auto OC does.

Hope that answered your question.

My opinion, is that its so easy to do yourself by printing the 6 steps and spending 3 minutes in your bios, that why wouldn't ya? Auto OC does a similar thing and then you have to go back in and start lowering the Vcore on the cpu to tweak anyways. Zee guide works. I've not just done it once or on just one cpu/board. Even if you auto OC you still have to run thru guide section 3, and its not any easier. You sound like you can do it manually brother.

On my box it just says its a P8Z68 Deluxe. This is my first ever build, my friends call it a **** around kit, and I did put some money into it. I joined here so I can learn how to overclock safely. This is my first venture into this kind of thing like BIOS, overclocking etc... Some of the terms I have no idea what your talking about like BCLK, HWMON, and theres more. This weekend I'm going to give it a shot when I can spend time thinking about it. I came this far building it, and I was really uneasy dropping this king of coin for this build. What I would like to at least accomplish is learn how to overclock properly, and find out what my system can do. Thanks for your reply and the cool thread to give me the confidence to try.
Fred

Theocnoob · Dec 22, 2011

fmkenner said:
On my box it just says its a P8Z68 Deluxe. This is my first ever build, my friends call it a **** around kit, and I did put some money into it. I joined here so I can learn how to overclock safely. This is my first venture into this kind of thing like BIOS, overclocking etc... Some of the terms I have no idea what your talking about like BCLK, HWMON, and theres more. This weekend I'm going to give it a shot when I can spend time thinking about it. I came this far building it, and I was really uneasy dropping this king of coin for this build. What I would like to at least accomplish is learn how to overclock properly, and find out what my system can do. Thanks for your reply and the cool thread to give me the confidence to try.
Fred

That's actually a higher tier of the board I mentioned was a gem earlier I was not familiar with the non V board but this is better (Google/Asus site are friends). You can easily exceed 5Ghz on a board of this quality without worry about the board only the CPU. You will get to 4.5 in one night with this board. It is very good. The p8z68 series is ASUS finest implementation of the Z68 chipset in its pricerange IMO. That one is the top of that line as far as I know.

The auto OC on those boards IS good but learn manually. You'll appreciate it later and if you ever run into a board or arcitechture without it later you'll be better off.

I notice you have no CPU cooler listed and I do not suggest people overclock in all good conscience without an aftermarket cooler appropriate for their CPU.

Heat is bad.

To answer your Qs it is very easy:

HWMON (hardware monitor) is a piece of software to monitor voltages and temperatures. You can leave it open while you do X and it records the maxes for you to review and compare. That's all there is to it.

BCLK, or baseclock, is simply a setting to which all other numbers tie. Other settings are a multiple of your baseclock. All of them. you can think of it as the drummer keeping time. 100 is default. 45X100 (the base clock) gives you 4500Mhz If the BCLK was 101 you'd get 4545Mhz. It is that simple. Your RAM runs off the Baseclock as does your PCIE bus and your SATA controllers. Everything basically plays in tune with the drummer. Your RAM at 1600Mhz is on an X8 multi.

8x100 = 800 (DDR = double data rate so it multiplies by 2) so you get 1600 as 800x2.
That's the whole shebang.

Oh sorry btw multi=multiplier. Setting your cpu to 45x100 is a 45 multiplier. It's Like lego with bad instructions. Stick to it and you'll learn it if you want to. As all things at first confuse and then one day you just go "oooooooooh" and it clicks in. And then you start to learn hardware at an exponential rate

. Just get the basics down first. Doing things like this manually is the best way to learn just like getting your hands dirty is how you learn to do an oil change. Best of luck man. Thanks for the kind words by the way.

Remember, what we do is a bit like a car modder does. We take something, build it, and it works. Then we try to add a turbocharger and a better exhaust because we want it to go faster

. In one case to beat a porsche on an empty interstate cuzz we're nuts and in another to make all those programs just that touch more responsive. In some cases, a lot. Flight Simulator X which eats CPU power for breakfast zooms up from my stock speed to 4.8 in framerates with everything on. Overclocking. Confusing at first. Then eventually, kinda fun, and you can't argue with free speed. I mean ya you have to buy the cooler but for that money I'd buy the 4.8 CPU off the shelf over the 3.3 cpu anyways

.

fmkenner · Dec 22, 2011

Theocnoob said:
That's actually a higher tier of the board I mentioned was a gem earlier I was not familiar with the non V board but this is better (Google/Asus site are friends). You can easily exceed 5Ghz on a board of this quality without worry about the board only the CPU. You will get to 4.5 in one night with this board. It is very good. The p8z68 series is ASUS finest implementation of the Z68 chipset in its pricerange IMO. That one is the top of that line as far as I know.

The auto OC on those boards IS good but learn manually. You'll appreciate it later and if you ever run into a board or arcitechture without it later you'll be better off.

I notice you have no CPU cooler listed and I do not suggest people overclock in all good conscience without an aftermarket cooler appropriate for their CPU. Heat is bad.

To answer your Qs it is very easy:

HWMON (hardware monitor) is a piece of software to monitor voltages and temperatures. You can leave it open while you do X and it records the maxes for you to review and compare. That's all there is to it.

BCLK, or baseclock, is simply a setting to which all other numbers tie. Other settings are a multiple of your baseclock. All of them. you can think of it as the drummer keeping time. 100 is default. 45X100 (the base clock) gives you 4500Mhz If the BCLK was 101 you'd get 4545Mhz. It is that simple. Your RAM runs off the Baseclock as does your PCIE bus and your SATA controllers. Everything basically plays in tune with the drummer. Your RAM at 1600Mhz is on an X8 multi.

8x100 = 800 (DDR = double data rate so it multiplies by 2) so you get 1600 as 800x2.
That's the whole shebang.

Oh sorry btw multi=multiplier. Setting your cpu to 45x100 is a 45 multiplier. It's Like lego with bad instructions. Stick to it and you'll learn it if you want to. As all things at first confuse and then one day you just go "oooooooooh" and it clicks in. And then you start to learn hardware at an exponential rate . Just get the basics down first. Doing things like this manually is the best way to learn just like getting your hands dirty is how you learn to do an oil change. Best of luck man. Thanks for the kind words by the way.

Remember, what we do is a bit like a car modder does. We take something, build it, and it works. Then we try to add a turbocharger and a better exhaust because we want it to go faster . In one case to beat a porsche on an empty interstate cuzz we're nuts and in another to make all those programs just that touch more responsive. In some cases, a lot. Flight Simulator X which eats CPU power for breakfast zooms up from my stock speed to 4.8 in framerates with everything on. Overclocking. Confusing at first. Then eventually, kinda fun, and you can't argue with free speed. I mean ya you have to buy the cooler but for that money I'd buy the 4.8 CPU off the shelf over the 3.3 cpu anyways .

I forgot to put that in my signature. I have a Cooler Master 212 Hyper Plus. I did some reading and hoped I got the right stuff. Is my after market cooler right for the job? Thanks so much for the encouragement. I'm abit nervous doing it, was that way building it too.
Fred

fmkenner · Dec 22, 2011

Not sure if this matters, may have over applied thermal paste to CPU/Cooler. My brother in-law helped with that one part, said it shouldn't hurt putting too much on.

Theocnoob · Dec 22, 2011

fmkenner said:
Not sure if this matters, may have over applied thermal paste to CPU/Cooler. My brother in-law helped with that one part, said it shouldn't hurt putting too much on.

Your temperatures will tell the tale on that one. It's silicon based so its non conductive if you get it where it doesn't belong due to seepage. Run HWmon stock and run prime 95 what temp you getting?

The 212+ takes the 2600K to 4.5 to 4.7 depending on the voltage desires of the CPU. On average. Not all CPUs are the same. one takes 1.27 for X voltage one takes 1.31 one takes 1.33 these are the pitfalls of running outside stock where there is no guarantee.

fmkenner · Dec 22, 2011

Saturday I will do this. Just to be certian I need to download 4 programs to get everything right. Prime 95(64 bit), Coretemp, CPUID HWNMon, Intel burn test.

ETA: It doesn't matter if its on my SSD or HHD does it?

Theocnoob · Dec 22, 2011

fmkenner said:
Saturday I will do this. Just to be certian I need to download 4 programs to get everything right. Prime 95(64 bit), Coretemp, CPUID HWNMon, Intel burn test.

ETA: It doesn't matter if its on my SSD or HHD does it?

Nope (no idea what you mean by ETA in that sense ?)

Correct

Follow the guide. Everything will be fine. It's in there. Read the thread.
Please make sure you understand the steps and the entire first post and why you need to do 1 2 3 before you proceed if you are confused PM me (click my name, send private message) I don't mind helping the polite ones

.
Its the impatient spiteful ones who cant wait four hours and ask 3 times and get mad at you for not writing back who don't get my help. I have things to do too

You are:

Getting a stable overclock(in this case 4500Mhz)

Monitoring for stability at that voltage and speed

monitoring temperatures " "

Then lowering voltage until it won't blend to find the lowest happy voltage to keep temperatures down.

Feel free to write today, or Sat if thats when you do it, if you get stuck or anything.

Cheers.

And remember an extra 120mm fan and a set of fan clips lets you run push pull on your 212 to shave a tiny bit more heat off the CPU. More air running through the cooler = better cooling. Same goes for swapping to fast (loud

) fans.

fmkenner · Dec 22, 2011

Theocnoob said:
Nope (no idea what you mean by ETA in that sense ?)

Correct

Follow the guide. Everything will be fine. It's in there. Read the thread.
Please make sure you understand the steps and the entire first post and why you need to do 1 2 3 before you proceed if you are confused PM me (click my name, send private message) I don't mind helping the polite ones .
Its the impatient spiteful ones who cant wait four hours and ask 3 times and get mad at you for not writing back who don't get my help. I have things to do too

You are:

Getting a stable overclock(in this case 4500Mhz)

Monitoring for stability at that voltage and speed

monitoring temperatures " "

Then lowering voltage until it won't blend to find the lowest happy voltage to keep temperatures down.

Feel free to write today, or Sat if thats when you do it, if you get stuck or anything.

Cheers.

And remember an extra 120mm fan and a set of fan clips lets you run push pull on your 212 to shave a tiny bit more heat off the CPU. More air running through the cooler = better cooling. Same goes for swapping to fast (loud ) fans.

ETA= Edit to Add.
I did read the guide, thanks. I plan on re-reading, watching utube stuff and a few other items I saved. I look at it this way, its a learning moment for me. I built this by myself, with utube and reviews of course, and some advise of course. I never will be upset as I have enough to do myself, hunting season ends here in a week. I'm very happy someone wants to help, can be intimidating. On my board by my CPU there are 3 pins that is labeled CPU fan, but next to that maybe an inch theres 3 more pins unlabeled. Is that for another fan? I have all but one fan connected to the MB (4 fans plus CPU fan). I'm using that HAF 932 Advance case. They are all big fans, dont have any problems with noise at all. I was thinking bout push/pull but wanted to make sure those 3 pins were for fans. Thanks in advance brother.

Theocnoob · Dec 22, 2011

You should ask those questions in General Hardware if you are confused about fan pinouts and such. People there can help you.

Always want to ask in the right section. If it's about your power supply, go there. If it's about your CPU, go there, mobo? there.

If it's a general sort of how does this plug in will these work together should I build this... which of these computers is better, General Hardware.

appelsos · Dec 26, 2011

so, currently running p95, about 30 minutes max temps have been 69C. given, i am using the full 1.35 suggested volts, so i just have one question:

is it worth it to ramp down the voltage after a couple hours at 1.35? it seems like almost everyone who runs the test at 1.35 can go down quite a bit further with stability. also, do i need to run for a few hours EVERY time i lower the voltage, or so long as i run properly at all is that necessary?

Rod911 · Dec 26, 2011

appelsos said:
so, currently running p95, about 30 minutes max temps have been 69C. given, i am using the full 1.35 suggested volts, so i just have one question:

is it worth it to ramp down the voltage after a couple hours at 1.35? it seems like almost everyone who runs the test at 1.35 can go down quite a bit further with stability. also, do i need to run for a few hours EVERY time i lower the voltage, or so long as i run properly at all is that necessary?

Definitely. Generally speaking, the lower the voltage means lower power consumption and therefore, lower temps. When I first overclock, I tend to overestimate the voltage needed. If it's stable at that speed and voltage, I then go down 0.02v and test it. For fine tuning the voltage, I tweak the LLC to 75% so that V-droop is either minimal or non-existent at load.

appelsos · Dec 26, 2011

Rod911 said:
Definitely. Generally speaking, the lower the voltage means lower power consumption and therefore, lower temps. When I first overclock, I tend to overestimate the voltage needed. If it's stable at that speed and voltage, I then go down 0.02v and test it. For fine tuning the voltage, I tweak the LLC to 75% so that V-droop is either minimal or non-existent at load.

thanks for the insight. my MOBO's bios doesn't allow for LLC "tweaking", per say, but rather gives me the option to set vdroop at either "auto" or "low".

.02 seems a good place to start with, but i may pony up and just try right at 1.3V even. would there be a downside to this?

Rod911 · Dec 27, 2011

appelsos said:
thanks for the insight. my MOBO's bios doesn't allow for LLC "tweaking", per say, but rather gives me the option to set vdroop at either "auto" or "low".

.02 seems a good place to start with, but i may pony up and just try right at 1.3V even. would there be a downside to this?

No downside. You'll probably find your limit quicker by taking bigger steps. Who knows, if you're ok on 1.30v, you may find yourself wanting to try a lower voltage.

I don't know how your motherboard's LLC version works, but if there is an option to have it, I would turn it on.

fmkenner · Dec 27, 2011

Just want to thank theocnoob for starting this thread for those of us just learning. Got me pointed in the right direction. What a stand up guy! Thanks so much brother!!!

appelsos · Dec 27, 2011

just an update i guess-

its REALLY early here but it looks like all is well at 1.33V and 4.5Ghz. not as good as some others on here, but so long as the chip stays within acceptable heat bounds i'm fine

.

i only let p95 run for about 20 minutes so far, but at 1.30-1.32V it failed to blend almost immediately- so the fact that it will go at all is a good sign i think. I will let it run for about 2-3hrs tommorow morning (don't feel comfortable letting it run overnight XD) and take a few screenshots and report my results back here !

thanks for taking the time to make this guide!

pwnmachine · Dec 27, 2011

appelsos said:
just an update i guess-

its REALLY early here but it looks like all is well at 1.33V and 4.5Ghz. not as good as some others on here, but so long as the chip stays within acceptable heat bounds i'm fine .

i only let p95 run for about 20 minutes so far, but at 1.30-1.32V it failed to blend almost immediately- so the fact that it will go at all is a good sign i think. I will let it run for about 2-3hrs tommorow morning (don't feel comfortable letting it run overnight XD) and take a few screenshots and report my results back here !

thanks for taking the time to make this guide!

Nice!

Now all that is left is fine-tweaking that vcore

Theocnoob · Dec 27, 2011

appelsos said:
thanks for taking the time to make this guide!

Good job finding your happy voltage tweaking by there, and you are welcome :comp:

!

fmkenner said:
Just want to thank theocnoob for starting this thread for those of us just learning. Got me pointed in the right direction. What a stand up guy! Thanks so much brother!!!

You're a stander up guy than I my friend.
Had a good time talking and glad we got you running smooth.

appelsos · Dec 27, 2011

hmmmm so i guess my chip doesn't want to take any less than 1.34V it looks like. T.T

it seems like almost everyone else got a chip that would take as low as 1.3V, did i likely get the worse-end of chips?

max temp with 5 passes of IBT though was 69C, so i guess thats fine.

Theocnoob · Dec 27, 2011

It's possible it was made on a Monday morning, yes.
There are no guarantees with overclocking. Golden chips are rare, great chips are rare. It's just average

. Nothing wrong with that.

Bobnova · Dec 27, 2011

Don't feel bad. Mine takes almost 1.4v for 4.5ghz.

FEATURED Beginners: How to set your 25/6/700K to 4.5Ghz

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