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Cooling-The Definitive Guide

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Most of it is in my sig. My radiator is in the back of my case with a Panaflo L1A at 10V pushing out. I took off the 3/8" OD pressure fittings on the waterblock and replaced them with 1/2" ID brass barbs. Much better flowrate.
 
I'm going to use 3/8th fitting, the flow rate is still high but theres more H20 to go around!!

I'm going to do a similar setup with the heater core at the back of the case, hopefully it will be really neat.
I'm currently making my own ramsinks, and a sort of baybus (adjusts speed from 12V to 7V)

I'll post some pics when its done!

My objective is under 30C all the time at 2.2V with a 2.5Ghz T-Bred. It shall be achieved!!!
Have you got any pics of your rig, and is it inline or using a resevoir? I'm using a resevoir as it seems to be slightly easier to maintain.


M_N
 
www.overclockers.com/tips719/

It is the same currently except for the block mod, water wetter now and no antifreeze, and a 90 degree black plastic connector on the return tube from the radiator to the pump, so the tubing isn't kinked like it is in the pics.

Temps:

20C ambient
30C Seti load with clean air filters, measured by waterblock thermistor.
 
Look really nice.

I hope to make mine really neat, the only problem being is I have an internal Modem which has many wires, and my external refuses to work....

Time for a mod methinks.....:D Maybe i'll finish my Ramsinks first!!!:)
 
Voodoo-caution, higher flow does not neccessarily mean better cooling. In my race cars, the thermostat is removed, due to its proclivity for failure at the most inopportune moments, but not for it's flow reducing properties. In it's place, a measured orifice flow restrictor is installed. The orifice is sized for ambient temperature AND for the length of track(therefoe average speed) expected. Why the restriction? As flow increases, the time exposed to the heat source is reduced, resulting in less heat transfer to the cooling medium. In addition, faster flow can result in aeration of the coolant, further reducing it's heat transfer properties. Not sure if it applies in this situation, but something to be aware of.

The Radman
 
I am well aware of the effects of coolant time in the dissipator. But for my radiator, which has a tremendous pressure drop, I need all the force the pump can provide, hence my work to improve the flow rate. It will also help my water block to have higher flow since it will have more cool water flowing through it.

Aeration/cavitation (I believe they are the same) is not a problem with our cooling systems wince it rakes roughly over 1000PSI to bring air bubbles out inside the waterblock caused by its turbulence.

If I had a low pressure drop cooler such as a Blackice Extreme or a heater core, and I had a much higher-powered pump (300+ gph rated), then I would be more sensitive to the rate of flow because then it woudl be a factor in my system's efficiency.
 
Cavitation is caused by the impeller in the pump, lower pressure at the edge of the blade allows the coolant to boil around the impeller (you can see the results of this on a boat propeller, it erodes the metal, causing the pitting you see on the blade). Aeration is usually caused by flow restriction, like the bubbles you see around rocks in a fast moving stream. Higher system pressure reduces the tendency for both to occur.
 
I have not seen any evidence of air bubbles in my tubing after I bled the lines, so I don't think it's a problem. Pits in propellors is also caused by hitting things like rocks and wood. Our impellors I don't think move fast enough to cavitate, either.
 
Do you use a "water wetter" product in your system? If so, what product. I also wonder if anyone has observed boiling at the cpu contact surface in the block? In any case, sounds like you've got er' pretty well figured out there buddy.
 
Hey Maximus,
I did what you said(sort of)
I changed the bottom intake to a 120mm 126cfm fan. I also used AS2(I always had generic and I borrowed some AS2). And now I am down to 32C at idle. I am happy with these temps because I was at 37-39C at idle. The 120 was only $4.95 here This is a great deal for 126cfm but it is way too loud! I thought it was going to get quiter!.

This also constitutes as a bump:D
 
I use Redline Water Wetter in my system. Works pretty good and keeps the organic junk at bay, which is my main concern.

If you have boing in your waterblock you will soon have a dead processor. Any properly working heatsink or water cooling system will be well under 100C.
 
Hey Mike, you could probably slow down the fan some without affecting temps hardly at all. If you took it to 9-10V, it would be much quieter and still move almost as much air.
 
m_mike_k said:
Hey Maximus,
I did what you said(sort of)
I changed the bottom intake to a 120mm 126cfm fan. I also used AS2(I always had generic and I borrowed some AS2). And now I am down to 32C at idle. I am happy with these temps because I was at 37-39C at idle. The 120 was only $4.95 here This is a great deal for 126cfm but it is way too loud! I thought it was going to get quiter!.

This also constitutes as a bump:D
Click to expand...


If its to loud then lower the voltage down to 7Volts, it will still push out about 60-70CFM.

Glad I could help!


M_N:)
 
Here we go, the switches don't have positive / negative connections so you don't need to worry about that.

Just need a pair of wire cutters and a soldering iron and solder!


Enjoy your new found silence:p
 
Great guide...I already knew 99% of that, but it was nice to read it all in one place. Anywho, I wanted to know what might be wrong with my cooling setup. I think my air flow situation is fine. I might have a little negative pressure. My mobo temps (as of now) are 28C...My VGA is at 32C and my proc is 34C...this all at ~4% CPU usage. If I load it up, it can get up to 45C (48C with high ambients). I'm highly suspicious of the grease that came with both my intel HSF and my GF2 card. Anybody else think that's the problem?
 
Move that exhaust fan to the top slot-take advantage of heats natural tendancy to rise. It'll help a lot!

The Radman
 
sweet, that looks just like my set up cept my cpu is higher up so I put fans in my empty bays(I have 3 empty) and the cool air blows right in to the cpu...the 2 exhaust helpt to draw in the cool air. I have a enermax as well w/ really nice exhaust that is right above my Fan/HS.
my temp is currently at:38c-40c(using an asus board so I have to knock 8-10 degrees off the bios temp)

________________
RadMan said:
"Move that exhaust fan to the top slot-take advantage of heats natural tendancy to rise."
________________
keep that 80mm right there by the cpu..it draws that cool air in from the front 80mm fan...cooler cpu temps is more important than ambiant case temps!
 
Radman done suggesting anymore ideas in this forum-way too many pro's in here for his years of experience (in all things electronic and mechanical) to be of any value. See ya......
 
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