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putting in a drain port on my system.

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YAMA187

YAMA187

Member
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Joined
Jun 16, 2012
Location
new jersey
im looking to install a drain somewhere on my system to use for maintenance and incase i have to drain it for some reason. i dont want to have it going anywhere so i have decided to put a drain port on the loop somewhere. but through my research i havent found much on the subject. i was thinking of putting either a splitter or a block that has 3 ports on it. something like this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15165/ex-tub-1158/Alphacool_180_T_Block_-_Deep_Black.html then i was going to run a 2 or 3 inch peice of tube out and then put a pressure valve on it as the drain

i was going to put it right after my pump on the loop so that the pump could still run so i could drain the res enough.

tell me what you guys think and if you have any ideas let me know
 
YAMA187 said:
im looking to install a drain somewhere on my system to use for maintenance and incase i have to drain it for some reason. i dont want to have it going anywhere so i have decided to put a drain port on the loop somewhere. but through my research i havent found much on the subject. i was thinking of putting either a splitter or a block that has 3 ports on it. something like this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15165/ex-tub-1158/Alphacool_180_T_Block_-_Deep_Black.html then i was going to run a 2 or 3 inch peice of tube out and then put a pressure valve on it as the drain

i was going to put it right after my pump on the loop so that the pump could still run so i could drain the res enough.

tell me what you guys think and if you have any ideas let me know
Click to expand...

There are a couple of threads here and here on XS when I Googled "water cooling drain". There is an interesting link to a YouTube video. I think your part choice is fine for a simple drain.

I was taught to go to the lowest point in the loop. Mine works pretty well but I still need to squeeze tubes, tilt the case, and remove tubing to finish draining. Hope the photos help. Let me know if you wish a link to any parts. Good luck. :)
 

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thats exactly what im looking to do. and yes links would be great!! the link for where i can get that plug and the splitter. also one quick noob question. how do you get the 90 degree joint to go in the direction you want while still being tight enough?

also is that the in or out part of the pump???
 

Bitspower BP-TIIR-C G 1/4in. Silver Shining TII-Rotary Adapter has a rotary adapter so after I tightened it into my G 1/4" thread of my pump inlet, I could still rotate the drain tube.

Bitspower Matt Black Sealing Plug for 1/2in. ID Tubing #BP-MBWP-C31 is available in a shiny version too if you wish.

You could also use this male to male G 1/4" connector between the cube and pump inlet but would lose the rotary connection that we like.

My experience is only from the intake or inlet of the pump (before the pump). That was my low point and where I had room. I have seen others use multiple drain ports (before and after pump and before and after video card). Some use the Quick Disconnects. As Conumdrum hinted at, you are limited only by your imagination, case size, and maybe budget. :D

Please keep asking questions. Others will have ideas. :)
 
Last edited:
That looks to be the inlet to the pump.
He's using rotary fittings..the threaded end swivels, but is not detachable from the elbow. It allows you to tighten it down and them aim your elbow the way you want.
I use the short version by Bitspower on my CPU block.
 
you just answered so many questions i havent even asked yet lol. is that the Swiftech MCP655-B pump you have in your rig?? cause i was think of getting that for mine. i was really worried about the joints not going the way i want them too. what a relief
 
Those are Swiftech 655 varios (Laing D5 vario OEM). They are variable speed 1 to 5 while the 655B is a single speed at the equivalent of setting 4 on the vario. Skinnee Labs has good testing on pumps. When I bought my gear, Swiftech did not make the 35x pump or I would have bought that with the PWM control. The 35x is much smaller. My pumps take up all space between my PSU and drive cage so thank goodness for a HAF 932 case (the case that allows mistakes, LOL).

We don't want to move too fast either. I apologize because I thought you had a water-cooling plan and was only curious about options for a drain. If you wish to consider a new water-cooling plan, you will happier in the long run if you read the stickies up top, particularly Hokiealumnus' Guide and Conumdrum's links. Take your time and enjoy all that learning goodness. We will all be happy to answer any questions when you are ready. Good luck and keep it fun. :)
 
no dont worry about moving to fast. ive been taking my time and ive already read those threads. and have been researching for a month now. i want it done august 28th (guild wars 2 release day.) but i want it done right and plus i only have the money to order one main part at a time. so im tackling the research for each part one at a time. so far i just have a res and a thing of tubing and some fittings. i have also have just been practicing putting the tubing on correctly. ive also put the res in for now and have been laying out the tubing. not cutting yet but just getting it ready. measuring and what not
 
Careful with those rotaries. If you torque them a bit, they'll leak at the rotating interface. I discovered this when I had an awkward run between my GPU and rad, and I cut the tubing too short, and the tubing was pulling the fitting enough to make it leak. When I say leak, I mean just a bit, like little drips, not squirting all over the place, but it's still not good. They're totally fine though if they don't have any torque on them.
 
yeah ill make sure i get them snug enough but not tight. also how tight should i have the clamps on? i know that if you over do it the tubing can raise up in one spot. is it ok if the tubing can spin around the barb? ive been practing putting them on and i noticed it happend. i just have so claps that came with my danger den tubing
 
YAMA187 said:
yeah ill make sure i get them snug enough but not tight. also how tight should i have the clamps on? i know that if you over do it the tubing can raise up in one spot. is it ok if the tubing can spin around the barb? ive been practing putting them on and i noticed it happend. i just have so claps that came with my danger den tubing
Click to expand...

I usually just do hand tight + 1/4 turn, and have never had a problem with the barbs leaking or the seals splitting. As far as clamp tightness goes, you want it tight enough that the tubing will not move or spin. I suggest some simple automotive hose clamps as they are cheap, reliable, and can be purchased at any auto parts store or hardware store.
 
I have an Koolance Quick Disconnect as part of the Loop near the lowest end. (GPU loops cross over) and I use the Quick Disconnect as drain when required, which is good enough for me. :)
 
bluezero5 said:
I have an Koolance Quick Disconnect as part of the Loop near the lowest end. (GPU loops cross over) and I use the Quick Disconnect as drain when required, which is good enough for me. :)
Click to expand...

i was looking into one of those and i found them to take up to much space on the loop. how long would you say it is including the fittings??
 
Conumdrum said:
84.5 mm

Skinnee to the rescue.

http://skinneelabs.com/quick-disconnect-roundup/
Click to expand...

very interesting. im just wondering how easy these things are to drain once there disconnected. the flow rates where not as low as expected. but i think it would be easier the way you and musicfans systems are. how that i can just run a tube a little bit out one side or have a splitter with a plug.
 
QDC's will have to be pushed in to drain unless you buy both halves. When it's time to drain, you plug the other end in with no hose, and it drains. Pretty good system. Still, a Y and a G 1/4 plug like in my pic works. The Y is expensive and with the plug it adds cost, close to the same as the QDC I bet. Lots of choices just pick one I guess.
 
When I drain, I just disconnect.
and unbarb my tube to drain.. I do have extra halves, but I mean.. easier to just drain that way.

My setup requires a lot of GPU changes, that's why I have two disconnects before and after my GPU loops. Works very well. :)
 
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