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FEATURED So I just de-lidded my 3770K...Results and pics inside!

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LoneWolf121188

Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2004
Location
Osan AB, South Korea
[EDIT 3: 10 Feb 2013]
When you put the TIM on the bare die, make sure you spread it out over the surface completely. Don't put a small dot on the center and hope the pressure of the IHS will spread it out: it won't! Here's what happens if you try to do that: http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726517
[/EDIT 3]

[EDIT 2]
A few people seem to be confused about what's going on here, so here's a quick primer:

CPU Die: This is the actual silicon (not silicone! silicone is used in breast implants, silicon is used in processors :) ) that makes up the transistors of the CPU. That's the dark colored long rectangular thing on the PCB.
PCB: Printed Circuit Board. This is the green plastic base with all the little electrical traces on it.
IHS: Integrated Heat Spreader. This spreads out the heat created by the die onto a larger surface area. When you increase the surface area that the heatsink touches, you increase its efficiency (to a point). The IHS also protects the die from being crushed by today's massive air coolers!
TIM: Thermal Interface Material. This is a (usually liquid) material that enhances the interface between to thermally-connected surfaces. If you think about it, on a microscopic scale, there are tons of nooks and crannies and general irregularities on any surface. TIM fills in these gaps between the two surfaces.
De-Lidding: The act of removing the IHS.

The problem with Ivy Bridge is two-fold: first, Intel was using crappy TIM on the die-IHS interface. Second, the IHS was mounted too high on the PCB, and there was a significant gap between the die and the underside of the IHS (when you remove the IHS and all the TIM and glue, then place the IHS back on the die, you find that the bottom of the IHS doesn't contact the PCB, meaning Intel probably used WAY too much glue or TIM to attach the IHS). Both of these things contributed to an inability to tranfer heat out of the die and into the heatsink. By de-lidding, you can replace the TIM with higher-quality TIM, plus remove the gap and have the IHS directly contacting the die.
[/EDIT 2]

In case you're curious, I followed the directions here exactly. I used CoolLaboratory Liquid Ultra at both the die/IHS interface and the IHS/waterblock interface. Very cool stuff...the consistency is like liquid (hot) solder; it forms globs exactly the same way. Bit of a pain, but you can spread it out VERY thinly on the die and IHS.

Here are my initial results: I was previously running at 4.7GHz (47x100) at 1.412 vcore, fixed. I ran a few stress test programs before I de-lidded and recorded the instantaneous temperatures at the 2, 5, and 10 minute marks, as reported by CoreTemp (1.0 RC4) and Asus AI Suite (2.01). Then I did the same thing after de-lidding and compared the difference. I also have a water temperature sensor which is in my loop immediately after the CPU and GPU and before any rads, so it's in the "hottest part of the loop" (though such a thing doesn't really exist :) ). I visually recorded this at the same intervals as well, however, it turned out that the water temperature did not change significantly. Room temp was maintained between 74-75F (around 23.5C).

Prime95 was run on Blend, IBT was run at 1024MB.

The Average CoreTemp number is the average of the four core temperatures reported by CoreTemp at the time indicated. As you probably know, temperature measuring tools tend to show random jumps in temperature every now and then, and I don't really trust any of them. Still, you can clearly see a ~15-20C drop in temps across the board. :thup:

Also, I ran IBT just for fun for 100 iterations and my temps in CoreTemp never went above 67C. Amazing. I was hitting 90C before de-lidding. :D

I should also mention my cooling setup, which is in my sig, but may change in the future: EK Supremacy on the CPU, EK full-coverage acetal block on the GTX 680, MCP35X, 1x120mm rad with a Delta fan, and 1x180mm rad with a Silverstone fan.

graphsd.jpg

Next up, I'm going to up the voltage and try for 5.0GHz!
 
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Pictures are attached below. Here are links to high-res versions, which would probably be useful to anyone who wants to do this themselves.

http://imageshack.us/a/img145/5961/dsc06421.jpg
Here we go! Cleaning off the AS5!

dsc06421.jpg


http://imageshack.us/a/img252/3888/dsc06423u.jpg
Scary! But really not that hard. It took me less than 10 minutes, and I was being VERY careful.

dsc06423u.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img594/4302/dsc06424t.jpg
Success! Not a scratch on the die or PCB! Check out that gross stock TIM!

dsc06424t.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img855/9805/dsc06426q.jpg
Ahhhhh, much better. :)

dsc06426q.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img812/7287/dsc06427c.jpg
Liquid Ultra! Pretty crazy stuff! It looks pretty blobby in this picture, but it's really not. Make sure you spread it out like this! Don't use the "grain of rice in the center" technique; it won't work! Sorry it's a touch out of focus...getting a new camera pretty soon (Sony A77), so I can fix the slight backfocusing problem I have with this 50mm f/1.4 lens.

dsc06427c.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img203/2249/dsc06428y.jpg
Almost there!

dsc06428y.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img502/6494/dsc06429y.jpg
Done! Time to test!

dsc06429y.jpg
 
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Subscribed too! I've been thinking of doing this, but waiting until I get a new chip after Christmas. Hopefully I'll get one that's not as big a voltage pig as my current one.
 
Wow, Im thinking this doesn't look to bad at all. I will of course pick up a chip to do it with after the holidays if I decide it still looks like fun. I would not try it with just one chip lying about :D

Not sure if Im that hard core yet but it looks much more simple than I was thinking it was. I am very confident after reading and looking at the guide though.
 
In case you're curious, I followed the directions here exactly. I used CoolLaboratory Liquid Ultra at both the die/IHS interface and the IHS/waterblock interface. Very cool stuff...the consistency is like liquid (hot) solder; it forms globs exactly the same way. Bit of a pain, but you can spread it out VERY thinly on the die and IHS.

I'm curious about using the Liquid Ultra between the IHS/waterblock. I thought I had read that it's difficult to remove. Your thoughts?
 
Nice job with including the pics and letting others see your journey. We all appreciate it!
 
Wow, Im thinking this doesn't look to bad at all. I will of course pick up a chip to do it with after the holidays if I decide it still looks like fun. I would not try it with just one chip lying about :D

Not sure if Im that hard core yet but it looks much more simple than I was thinking it was. I am very confident after reading and looking at the guide though.

Yeah, it's honestly pretty darn simple, and only takes an hour or two max. I spent an extra hour messing with my loop a bit because one of my bitpower rotaries decided to start leaking on me. :(

I'm curious about using the Liquid Ultra between the IHS/waterblock. I thought I had read that it's difficult to remove. Your thoughts?

Honestly, not really sure. But I thought Liquid Pro was the harder of the two to remove? I just didn't want to spend another $15 on another tube of TIM.:shrug:

Nice job with including the pics and letting others see your journey. We all appreciate it!
No problem, I'm more than happy to share! I learned all this stuff just by reading forums, so I feel obligated to give back. :)
 
I'm curious about using the Liquid Ultra between the IHS/waterblock. I thought I had read that it's difficult to remove. Your thoughts?

Actually.... it sucks. Some of it gets hard and becomes etched on the surface. A LOT of elbow grease and rubbing alcohol works. If your block is mirror smooth it comes off a lot easier than it comes off the IHS I'll tell you that right now.
 
So I still hold the record with over a 30C temperature drop @ 4.8ghz? :D
Nice, well done!

So, the bad news is that my additional OCing headroom isn't nearly as large as my temperature drop. I keep pushing up the volts, but I can't get it stable at 50x100MHz. Currently at 1.525 vcore, LLC at 75%, and current capability at 150%. It runs nice and cool, it just keeps crashing left and right. :( Thoughts?

I'll deal with the liquid ultra later. Hopefully I won't have to open up my system again between now and when Haswell comes out.
 
Finally got it! But holy crap, it needs a lot of voltage. Still, it's running pretty cool. This is after several hours of Prime.
 

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Actually.... it sucks. Some of it gets hard and becomes etched on the surface. A LOT of elbow grease and rubbing alcohol works. If your block is mirror smooth it comes off a lot easier than it comes off the IHS I'll tell you that right now.

That's what I thought. Thanks for the response. :thup:
 
Finally got it! But holy crap, it needs a lot of voltage. Still, it's running pretty cool. This is after several hours of Prime.

My 3570k is the same way...a big ol' voltage pig. I gave up when I couldn't get 5.0 stable at 1.53, which is way more than I personally would run 24/7. Hoping for better luck with a new chip after the holidays.
 
My 3770K doesn't like anything near or above 1.6V even on single stage cooling. I get blue screens while booting at 1.61V ... but it can pass most tests @5.5GHz 1.53-1.55V. De-lidding gave me nothing in max clocks. A bit better temps but not even 20-50MHz higher oc.
While playing with perfect mount I was able to make +/- 2°C difference between cores while before de-lidding it had +/- 7°C.
 
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