FEATURED Exoframe Mini

Exoframe Mini








Hi all,

*** Special Note. This the complete real time build log. If you wish to skip to the completed project, click --> Here <--. ***

Time for my new project. This is my third visit to my Exoframe concept. so technically this would be the Exoframe 3.0.

Here is a link to the original Exoframe project.
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=597792


Here is a link to Exoframe 2.0.
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7217964#post7217964

And a new twist for my modding. My first official sponsorship:










Unlike my previous two Exoframe based projects, this time I’m going compact!


Here are my goals:

1) Gaming PC based on a Mini-ITX platform, full sized video card, full sized power supply.

2) Small size, appropriate for a Home Theater component.

3) Watercooled.

4) I already have all of my components:
Intel I7 2700k (Swiftech Apogee)
Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe
XFX 7970 (Heatkiller full cover sink)
Seasonic X750 power supply
LG Blu-ray burner
2x 4gb Corsair Vengeance RAM
Swiftech MCP35x pump with XSPC Pump/res top
Samsung 840 500gb SSD
Phobya 200mm radiator

did you ever build it?

I don't see pics

also you don't have a badge, PM a mod and get you 10 year badge

I'm about 2 weeks in to this project. I'll post more pics.

Hey 10 years!

Here is my general plan:

1) Sketchup concepts, possible layouts
2) Build a prototype and finalize dimensions and layout
3) Build frame
4) Build bracketry
5) Work my sheet plastic for interior shelving
6) Work my sheet plastic for exterior paneling
7) Work with metal/plastic for bracketry for components
8) Install components
9) Fit watercooling routes, leak test
10) Work on cabling
11) Finalize, install windows
12) Final photo session
13) Locate it (home theater), settle on overclock

Okay, here are some Sketchup concept renderings.




I’m going with my standard exoframe layout:






It’s a simple box frame of ¾” square tube aluminum. One corner (with the extra horizontal bars) will have a slanted panel to give it some “architectural interest”.

I’ve included a standard football to give an idea of sizing.






Here are some general possible layouts to fit in this rendering:










































Yes, I know my Sketchup-fu is not strong. I'm stealing free renders from everywhere and I keep seeming to loose bits of them. But I'm only using this to get some general layout concepts.

Okay, it was time to start constructing a prototype.

I’m using an old kit of extruded aluminum bars. I left extra space at the joints so that I can adjust the actual sizing.

I like sketchup, but this gives me a much more accurate sizing (especially things hard to model like fittings). The hands on nature does works better for me.

There are a few things to keep track of, tho, for example these bars are metric based, and so will be smaller than the ¾” square tube I will be using for framing.





Started to put together the frame:













Basic frame structure completed:












In the place of plastic, carved up some ⅛” MDF I had around the shop, to build a base:

Just curious why not use the extruded aluminum instead of square bar? I was thinking to use some of this stuff myself. Either openbeam or misumi 15x15.

Yay, a new Navig build!

Also, congrats on ten years! Mobile now, but I'll get somebody to get that set up for you.

SeeThruHead said:

Just curious why not use the extruded aluminum instead of square bar? I was thinking to use some of this stuff myself. Either openbeam or misumi 15x15.

Click to expand...

It is extrusion.

Looking good so far Navig!

I meant that particular extruded aluminum rather than square bar.

I have built a case from extruded aluminum before:

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=499326

Its an easy product to work with. Also seen some cases made with 80/20.


Couple reasons I'm going with the square tube:

Aesthetically, square tube is cleaner, with the flat surfaces.
Planning on a custom anodizing job.
I often run cables within the frame.

The next step was to start building up some structure. Plan is for this to be of 3/16” acrylic, but I’m going to use some ⅛” MDF I had around the shop.





First built a support hoop for the first level.












Finished it with a tray:













The tray will hold the power supply:














And then the top level would hold the motherboard.















Then I threw in some components:





But if you look closely, I struggled with where to put my hard drives.









So I reworked my structure, elevating the first level to accommodate hard drives on their side:











But as I filled in the rest of the components, I discovered that I had to make this case much taller than I had anticipated:





This is where Sketchup designing can fool you. With clearances for the watercooling block on the video card, plus an intake fan mounted on the top panel, turns out you need a lot of space above your motherboard.

I felt like this design was too tall, so I went back to prototyping.

After some more tinkering around, this was my finalized layout and size:






I stretched the front-to-back dimension by 4 cm (notice the gap from the original floor panel).











Bottom level holds the radiator plus hard drives on their side:















Next level is the power supply plus 5.25 bay/optical drive:














Top level is the motherboard:













Here some more views, for reference.




























That was it for messing around, it was time to get building.

The first order of business was to generate the cut list for my square tube (¾” x ¾”, 1/16” thickness, ordered from onlinemetals.com)




There are 3 types of ending I needed to cut for each length of square tube:



Square end for a butt joint:













Single miter to meet at this joint:
















Double miter to meet at 3-way joint::


















My weapon of choice: band saw cutter.














Picked up my band saw pretty cheap (like $130) by stacking coupons at Harbor Freight, but this can be done (even more accurately) with a $15 miter box and elbow grease:
















Here is a video on how I do the double miter.





It’s important to keep track of which way you want to cut the 45 degrees.













The Cut List

Here was the full cut list listed by what type of miter cut was needed at each end:


Square end - square end:
4x 270mm

Single miter - Double miter
2x 428mm
2x 384mm

Double miter - Double miter
2x 428mm
2x 384mm
3x 270mm







Couple of hours later here was my stack of ready to go pieces.












You may notice that I’ve labeled each bar so that I can keep track of them when unassembled--here is the plan, posted here actually for my own future reference:

Next, I’m going to flash back.

Part of the process for my last Exoframe based build, Exoframe 2 (link here), I put together steel 3 way corner brackets.





The link on their fabrication is here, but I will recap.

They started as a drawing, then CAD design (thanks to Matt Mione Solidworks), then cut from 18 gauge steel (thanks to Erik Norcal Laser).










Bent them into shape:













And there you have it:













Next I had them sent off to Kwikki (raptorpit forums) for professional welding.


And then off to Platinum Powdercoating (Chico, CA) for a matte black finish!







Now I’ve got cut tubing and brackets--next step assembly!

First step to getting these bars ‘n brackets together is to mark and centerpunch my marks:












Drill them out:













Thread them:













And start screwing things together.












Slowly assembling the basic frame:

I continued making each joint:




























Made my cross bars, making sure they were square:













Completed frame!

Now that I had the basic external frame complete, I turned my attention to some of the supporting mounting structure. Not glorious but very necessary.


I began fabricating what I call the “hangers”. These pieces mount to the frame and create a mounting surface for the plastic panels. The plastic panels don’t mount directly to the basic frame, but instead are inset within the frame, hence the name “Exoframe”.






The hangers begin as ½” angle aluminum:












Next I cut out a tab from one end:













And then bend the tab to a 45 degree:














And these are my completed hangers:












The hangers then get mounted (green arrows):





You can see how they generate a mounting surface for the inset plastic panels.







In a similar fashion, I generate 2 short mounting tabs:











The 45 degree bend creates a mounting surface for the slanted top panel:





This panel needs a fair bit of support as it will hold the power buttons, and I don’t want it to feel bendy or unsecure when you push the buttons.

There are some open areas not supported by my hangers, so I’m going to make some tabs to to hold the body panels.

They are not meant to be noticed, so I’m building them from ⅛” clear acrylic.




Cut a stack of trapezoid tabs:








Next I wanted to get the edges polished, and for this I am going to a use a brand new technique and tool.

First I rough sanded the edges with my sanding disc thingy, getting all of the tabs exactly edged:











Here was the unfinished surface:











And here I am, with my $40 Harbor Freight buffing wheel. The tool works great, but the included wheel is unbalanced (good tips from reviews on the HF website), so also ordered a buffing wheel set and buffing compound from tap plastics.

This is the first time I’ve ever used a buffing wheel--any tips or criticisms appreciated!



(Click to play video)









And the finished product:





Previously I’ve been hand sanding my edges with 220, 400, 600, 1000, 1500 then buffing with rubbing compound. Obviously this method is much faster.







The finished eges on video:



(Click to play video)










And here are the tabs mounted up to the frame: